HELP! Car-hydrolocked!!!! UPDATED!
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HELP! Car-hydrolocked!!!! UPDATED!
I was driving to school today and hit a big puddle...
the car cranks, and starts real fast but then turns off...
Do you think I'll be ok?
Help, what do I do!!
the car cranks, and starts real fast but then turns off...
Do you think I'll be ok?
Help, what do I do!!
Last edited by Hwoody77; Sep 8, 2004 at 08:31 PM.
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Well its cranking so its not as bad as mine was. You need to get the whole motor flushed and have all new fluids put in it, and spark plugs. Take off the intake manifold and dump it out, you'd be surprised how much water that thing can hold 
You SHOULD be ok. And please...convert your CAI to a SRI..
You SHOULD be ok. And please...convert your CAI to a SRI..
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Originally Posted by Hwoody77
So if it cranks, that means I don't have any bent rods or anything right? No piston problems...?
I need TP for my bunghole
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That sucks. Hopefully it just a fluid change to the all the water out.
I remember this happened to another person here and they had the fluids change it ran them like $120 at the dealer.
After you get it fixed get a AEM bypass valve and cut a section out of the CAI. That what I did. Or get a SRI.
Best of luck to you.
I remember this happened to another person here and they had the fluids change it ran them like $120 at the dealer.
After you get it fixed get a AEM bypass valve and cut a section out of the CAI. That what I did. Or get a SRI.
Best of luck to you.
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Originally Posted by Hawk
Well its cranking so its not as bad as mine was. You need to get the whole motor flushed and have all new fluids put in it, and spark plugs. Take off the intake manifold and dump it out, you'd be surprised how much water that thing can hold
You SHOULD be ok. And please...convert your CAI to a SRI..
You SHOULD be ok. And please...convert your CAI to a SRI..
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From: Queens, New York, US
Rep Power: 339 The rain and flooding from Frances got to ya huh? I was driving through probably half a foot of water today but I am ok.
Best of luck to ya. Hope things work out and not get too complicated.
Best of luck to ya. Hope things work out and not get too complicated.
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Originally Posted by SpeedFreak
I've got a cri with a bypass valve and have driven through a sheit load of deep puddles and no problems yet. So its not crap, it works.
Originally Posted by SpeedFreak
I've got a cri with a bypass valve and have driven through a sheit load of deep puddles and no problems yet. So its not crap, it works.
AAAAHHHHH!!!!!
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From: Kissimmee, Florida, US
Rep Power: 0 1.) Open the intake manifold or just the top portion of the throttle body until you see the opening for it. If you don't have a vaccum to suck the water out, get a decent sized rag or towel that can fit in there but also suck in water. Oh yea, get a metal hanger just incase you drop the rag in there and need to get it back out.
2.) Start dipping the rag in there and pull it out, twist rag til dry then dip it again until you can see there is no more water in there.
3.) Take out the spark plugs and dry them off, they will have water on them and also clean them with either gas or WD40.
4.) Put the plugs back and try to start the car. She will struggle the first few times but she will start. Let her run for about 1 or 2 minutes then shut her off.
5.) Change the oil right away and I mean RIGHT AWAY! Change the spark plugs too. Also if you can find some, go to autozone or some place and get a bottle of that cleaner stuff that only gets rid of water in the fuel system and other areas. Another thing, on your next gas fill up, put in premuim to help clean the out the system.
6.) The car will also bog or stutter the first few times when you drive it but it will go away eventually. After about 1000 miles NO LATER change the oil again.
At this point, if she doesn't make any wierd noises your car will be fine. You may want to do a compression check to make sure. This happened to me before and I did this exact thing and the car still works fine 23,000 miles later. I don't have the car anymore, I sold it to a guy down the street and he beats her every day with no problems.
PM me if you have another questions.
2.) Start dipping the rag in there and pull it out, twist rag til dry then dip it again until you can see there is no more water in there.
3.) Take out the spark plugs and dry them off, they will have water on them and also clean them with either gas or WD40.
4.) Put the plugs back and try to start the car. She will struggle the first few times but she will start. Let her run for about 1 or 2 minutes then shut her off.
5.) Change the oil right away and I mean RIGHT AWAY! Change the spark plugs too. Also if you can find some, go to autozone or some place and get a bottle of that cleaner stuff that only gets rid of water in the fuel system and other areas. Another thing, on your next gas fill up, put in premuim to help clean the out the system.
6.) The car will also bog or stutter the first few times when you drive it but it will go away eventually. After about 1000 miles NO LATER change the oil again.
At this point, if she doesn't make any wierd noises your car will be fine. You may want to do a compression check to make sure. This happened to me before and I did this exact thing and the car still works fine 23,000 miles later. I don't have the car anymore, I sold it to a guy down the street and he beats her every day with no problems.
PM me if you have another questions.
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From: Anniston, Alabama, US
Rep Power: 306 I have had boats for a long time. In boats, it is common to get water in the motor, for example a drain plug is not installed and the boat partially sinks. Happens a lot!
The first thing to do is NOTHING. If you suspect water in the motor, DO NOTHING. If you run the motor, you are attempting to compress the water, it will not compress and it will bend rods or valves. If enough water is in the cylinder, it will crack the block. Even a big 454 will crack.
Now, safely move the vehicle away from the water. Now is the time to worry about destroying your engine more or paying for a tow truck.
Remove all the spark plugs. This allows the water to go somewhere. Pay attention, crank the motor, water may squirt out the hole. Do this a few times, if there is water inside, use a shop vacuum and pull out the water. Drain the oil. All the water should come out. A small amount will be inside. Engines usually get condensation inside them, they usually burn it up. Oil and water will not mix, so most of it will be out.
Drain the transmission if water was high enough to enter it. Better safe than sorry. Clean the plugs with brake cleaner.
On boats that were not started, nothing is usually hurt. On a car that was already running, the motor sucked up some water, how much depends on how bad the motor is. AT this point, if the timing belt did not jump a tooth, no further damage will occur. If it is bent, it is already bent.
This is a risk that a cold air box faces. Even a short ram will suck in water if submerged, but usually that is closer to three feet of water or a much bigger splash inside the engine compartment. The K & N FIPK has a shield that helps, but running into a puddle is bad.
If you want to runn puddles, get a 4 x 4 and get a snorkle.
The first thing to do is NOTHING. If you suspect water in the motor, DO NOTHING. If you run the motor, you are attempting to compress the water, it will not compress and it will bend rods or valves. If enough water is in the cylinder, it will crack the block. Even a big 454 will crack.
Now, safely move the vehicle away from the water. Now is the time to worry about destroying your engine more or paying for a tow truck.
Remove all the spark plugs. This allows the water to go somewhere. Pay attention, crank the motor, water may squirt out the hole. Do this a few times, if there is water inside, use a shop vacuum and pull out the water. Drain the oil. All the water should come out. A small amount will be inside. Engines usually get condensation inside them, they usually burn it up. Oil and water will not mix, so most of it will be out.
Drain the transmission if water was high enough to enter it. Better safe than sorry. Clean the plugs with brake cleaner.
On boats that were not started, nothing is usually hurt. On a car that was already running, the motor sucked up some water, how much depends on how bad the motor is. AT this point, if the timing belt did not jump a tooth, no further damage will occur. If it is bent, it is already bent.
This is a risk that a cold air box faces. Even a short ram will suck in water if submerged, but usually that is closer to three feet of water or a much bigger splash inside the engine compartment. The K & N FIPK has a shield that helps, but running into a puddle is bad.
If you want to runn puddles, get a 4 x 4 and get a snorkle.
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Well here's what happened, I kept the CAI on because I was going to use it for intercooler piping for my turbo kit...
So I manage to start the car and its riding really rough so I drive it real slow for about 10 miles to the shop.
I remove the spark plug cover and the plugs...no water...take out the TB practically any water, so I just got an oil change and have driven the car...no problem.
I did a compression test...
Cylinder 1,2, and 3 were at around 230, cylinder 4 was at 180....is that need to worry?
Also, at first I was hearing a loud clicking sound...really LOUD, like valves tapping, but it has died down...what could that be?
Someone told me I might have some bent-rods, but wouldn't my car run like garbage?
As of right now, I give a very slight tapping sound, and the idle is a little rough, but the car drives fine...anyone know what could be the problem?
So I manage to start the car and its riding really rough so I drive it real slow for about 10 miles to the shop.
I remove the spark plug cover and the plugs...no water...take out the TB practically any water, so I just got an oil change and have driven the car...no problem.
I did a compression test...
Cylinder 1,2, and 3 were at around 230, cylinder 4 was at 180....is that need to worry?
Also, at first I was hearing a loud clicking sound...really LOUD, like valves tapping, but it has died down...what could that be?
Someone told me I might have some bent-rods, but wouldn't my car run like garbage?
As of right now, I give a very slight tapping sound, and the idle is a little rough, but the car drives fine...anyone know what could be the problem?
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From: NV
Rep Power: 812 It might get worse. Make sure the valve cleanance is fine. That compression is way off. They should all be similar, and even then the specs are around 135psi per cylinder. You have engine work that would increase compression like that?
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From: NV
Rep Power: 812 Bypass valve only works if the entire filter is under water. Also, they have a tendency to fail. Someone else's just crumbled up after a year cause of cheap materials. You can still suck up water.
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Rep Power: 0 wow, you guys like puddles huh. I live in NE and get plenty of rain, and melting snow. Just avoid them. If you see one, stop traffic if you have to, to avoid it. I have. We have train bridges around here where Metro-North goes over the road and small underpasses. Well when it rains hard enough they flood up, Ive pulled U-turns several times or just take another route to get to where Im going or hey let the gf drive her car because to me its not a big hassle. Avoiding puddles is not a very hard thing to do. And on the highway, follow the cars prints in front of you, they already channeled the water away so stay in their line to avoide big water.
Oh yeah and P.S.- My buddy's 2000 Prelude just bent a rod from water ingestion, so it CAN happen
Oh yeah and P.S.- My buddy's 2000 Prelude just bent a rod from water ingestion, so it CAN happen
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