RIPSAW

1993 Civic EX 2 Door Coupe Engine D16Z6 1.6
1HGEJ1152PL018822
Engine D16Z6 2605541 S4011646046

No mark. No cover. Figured I can cut a piece of zinc template stock to the same diameter as the damper with 0 cut. Use my protractor to figure a 12-degree mark and cut it. Set piston 1 to top with an indicator. Clamp my template behind damper. Short my 2 pins blue plug. Any other suggestions. Can the dealer set it on his computer? Interesting the 93 distributor is not keyed and have a crank position sensor

Any thoughts or shortcuts?

ezone

You're certainly on the right track, and you're operating on a level far above most average mechanics LOL

Timing light with dial in advance, so all you need to make is a TDC mark? (it's probably been at least a decade since I last used mine, and most of the younguns these days have no clue what my big chrome gun looking thing is in the first place)

Why no timing cover?
Get covers installed to protect the timing belt from random debris; a rock kicked up in the wrong place will really ruin a persons month.
Snow could do a hell of a number on it too.


Not possible.
The only way is the old fashioned way: Timing light and timing marks.

FWIW I think you'd be hard pressed to find anyone with a scanner that can actually get live data from the car, and even fewer people that can actually use that data to their advantage.

Drive lugs counts as keyed, that's just how Honda indexed most dist drives. Other manufacturers have done it similar ways too.

Inside the distributor. 3 separate signals originate inside the distributor (CKP, CYP, TDC)
You got another one hanging on the engine somewhere?

RIPSAW

There u go. My timing lights are so old they do not have advance. So I just need one that I can make read +12 and set it to my made mark at #1 at top.

Back in the good old days, would put a piece of cigarette paper under the points and index the distributor till the paper released.

Granddaughter brought a real piece of junk.
​​​​​​She wiped out the CRV I gave her with the help from a red light running pizza delivery guy. I got her a Wrangler for college transportation but grandma was ready to kill me if I gave it to her at highschool graduation last spring.
She gets it in a couple weeks when she starts college.

RobertD

I usually use my dial indicator 020 one way then 020 the other way, then find the center and Mark tdc, and stick a piece of timing tape on it. You do that with a protractor?!?!? I'd be afraid I was off.

This tape: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/msd-ignition-timing-tapes-for-harmonic-balancers-8985/10211860-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=10211860-P&adtype=pla_with_promotion&gclid=CjwKCAjwkrrbBRB9 EiwAhlN8_CZyFlEBdi4M946eigQiBWeS7L_ntfadhSbma0W_VG Z59PO_YpKGWxoCUo0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I'm impressed you are confident enough to do that with a protractor

ezone

Looks like that's for engines with clockwise rotation?
OPs engine would be CCW rotation, but OP only needs to see 12 degrees so it could still work?

RobertD

lol.. "you aren't thinking 4th dimentionally" -you just stick it on upside down if the engine spins the other way.

i think it's nice to have the marks going farther since (on my ford anyhow) the IAC leasurely sets the idle and the timing fluctuates to adjust it quickly/keep it there.

ezone

/Facepalm.
//Forest; Trees.
///Box; Outside.

Colin42

BTTF!

RIPSAW

My son's timing light has the advance dial. Have not seen it but assume it goes both ways. Still pondering post 7. Guess it's the weekend? Ha

ezone

I swear I had just got out of work when I posted those two replies

RIPSAW

Off work? That's good

RIPSAW

OK Update. 1993 Civics have the 0 and 12 degrees on the damper. So I only needed to find #1 at the top. Cut me a strip for an alignment marker. I had decided to skip protractor and trig out the short leg for a triangle with two equal sides and a 12 degree angle. However, not necessary.

Still a couple of problems. Distributor inner seal is leaking. Bearing fills good. However, after removing the rotor screw, the rotor is tight. Any secrets?

Also, there only appears to be an IAC on the intake. See no fast idle valve. There is only one hole in front of the butterfly at 9:00 o-clock.

In that third attachment, there is a vacuum switch over ar the end of the manifold. with the hose attached to the intake. It has one electrical connector. On top is a cap that pulls off and below that is a pipe. No hose hooked to it. Should there be another hose to it? Did not get a very good shot of it but it is behind power booster vacuum hose.

ezone

Rotor could be rusted in place. Tap apart, chisel apart, but be ready to replace it.
Inner shaft seal not available through Honda unless you bought the entire housing, but I think I remember seeing Car ID has or had them listed on their website. IDK if they will fit an aftermarket distributor though.Of course mention you're a member on this forum


3 door hatchback? CX or VX trim with manual trans? Seems to be the only versions without a fast idle valve under the throttle body I could see in the parts catalog.
Maybe someone did a manifold or throttle body swap at some point in its life? IDK.


I think you pictured and described the IAC valve? (I don't see circles and arrows on the 8x10 color glossy photos)


https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...-throttle-body




#13 is 'valve assembly, fast idle'
#17 is 'valve assembly, electronic air control', (common name IAC valve)

RIPSAW

Thanks. It's the charcoal canster line that is missing. I see it in your sketch. Just going to plug it. The guy that had this before GD had a throw off any thing to go faster.
He tightened the locknuts on the valves so tight, I ended up cutting .002 shim stock under the nut on the intakes which were tight.
The exhaust where a couple loose but I could brake them free of screw.

Oil pan drain plug was stripped. Threads in pan look ok other then not exactly correct. I had got a .010 oversized plug but would not start . Going to get a standard one and try that. .010 is a lot since it does not cut.
It's possible, GD and boyfriend who put distributor, ECM and IAC on car may have the wrong ECM for not having the Cold start fast idle.
Their combinations did get it running.
Just past the manifold pipe swivel joint is a small shielded what appears to be a long skinny cat. After that is a long huge straight pipe all the way back and out
Hoping that is a cat to pass VA inspection. Just have to have one.

ezone

Drain plug may be same thread as a 14mm spark plug LOL

Fast idle valve is all thermal and needs antifreeze flow, no electrical. ECM wouldn't know anything is missing except for idle issues it has a hard time controlling. If no hole in throttle body leading to it, throttle body must not be original to this car?

Exhaust odor should tell you if it has a cat or not.

RIPSAW

All is better. Original OEM IAC and new small hose seems to help.
Numerous Oil leaks fixed. Timing on an steady. Radiator fan cycling.

All the suspension and bearing hubs replaced few months ago by GD and her boyfriend.
(A caliper pearched on the frame fell off and distroyed a $1000 iPhone and the caliper..car is about 3" off the ground)

Quick check over...front right caliper dragging hard. front left 3/4 play at outer area of tire all directions.
Only hope for this is GP loves GD

ezone

Tough love is still love!

RIPSAW

Little confused. Have not done lot of suspension work on Honda's. Front axle nut was about four turns loose. No stake
Tighten it and play went away
Car has new hubs, wheel bearings, struts, axles and lower control arms complete.

I thought that hub bolted to arms controlled play?
What was causing wheel to be loose with axle nut loose?

The right axle nut was not staked either but snug..ha . I turn it about 1/2 turn to 170lb torque.

ezone

Someone botched the install. If that nut isn't staked properly it can loosen itself, but I kinda suspect the nut was never tight enough in the first place.
.
A loose axle nut can and will cause a wheel bearing to go bad...... sometimes in a matter of just yards. BTDT
Examine how the inner races of a sealed press-in front wheel bearing must be sandwiched together tightly -----and this happens ONLY when the axle is inserted and the nut tightened.bolted to arms, what?