When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Bolt-on Engine Performance ModificationsThis section is for easy bolt-on engine modifications
Post questions/information about intakes, exhausts, headers, lightweight pulleys or flywheels? It belongs here.
Just posing a question. Hypothetically would it be a good idea to somehow allow more air flow through the fog light housing in conjunction with using a CAI? I'm asking specifically about a 2017 EX-T. Thanks for the info everyone.
I'm actually working on something like that. I have a DIY SRI under the hood, and I'm gonna make the driver's side fake vent functional. Basically what I'm looking to fab up is a ram air induction/air diverter, of sorts, to force cooler air under the hood. As it sits right now, I have about a 35-40 degree differential from ambient to IAT while moving, and holy Jesus, a 60-70 degree differential in stop and go, at least in these hot summer temps. Pics below are with a 110F ambient, as read on my dash.
stop-and go temps
Cruising speed temps
I'm going this route bc I don't wanna lose my fogs, and there's a lot of empty room behind that "vent." I was gonna wait to post up until I started the fabrication process, but you just haaaad to post up... Lol. All jokes. I'll keep the forum updated with my progress
I'm actually working on something like that. I have a DIY SRI under the hood, and I'm gonna make the driver's side fake vent functional. Basically what I'm looking to fab up is a ram air induction/air diverter, of sorts, to force cooler air under the hood. As it sits right now, I have about a 35-40 degree differential from ambient to IAT while moving, and holy Jesus, a 60-70 degree differential in stop and go, at least in these hot summer temps. Pics below are with a 110F ambient, as read on my dash.
stop-and go temps
Cruising speed temps
I'm going this route bc I don't wanna lose my fogs, and there's a lot of empty room behind that "vent." I was gonna wait to post up until I started the fabrication process, but you just haaaad to post up... Lol. All jokes. I'll keep the forum updated with my progress
My apologies mate. Please keep us updated on your progress. Are you thinking about going with a dremel out holes type thing or something else?
I'm actually working on something like that. I have a DIY SRI under the hood, and I'm gonna make the driver's side fake vent functional. Basically what I'm looking to fab up is a ram air induction/air diverter, of sorts, to force cooler air under the hood. As it sits right now, I have about a 35-40 degree differential from ambient to IAT while moving, and holy Jesus, a 60-70 degree differential in stop and go, at least in these hot summer temps. Pics below are with a 110F ambient, as read on my dash.
stop-and go temps
Cruising speed temps
I'm going this route bc I don't wanna lose my fogs, and there's a lot of empty room behind that "vent." I was gonna wait to post up until I started the fabrication process, but you just haaaad to post up... Lol. All jokes. I'll keep the forum updated with my progress
And yeah, was gonna Dremel/cut out a handful of those hexagons. I bought some chicken wire as a way to start the molding process. I have some fiberglass experience, so that's what I was gonna make it all out of
Figured I'd share some findings when I took off my bumper for the horn install. There's no direct path like I was hoping adjacent to the FMIC cold pipe that leads up to the throttle body. There is, however, a large void space behind the fog light area going into the fenderwell, pretty much where CAI filters sit. Also, if you take out the entire intake assembly, you can probably fit a baby or 2 in the space that the intake and resonator box occupies. I'll update with pics when I get home. Currently sitting at a VA health clinic waiting to get blood drawn
Figured I'd share some findings when I took off my bumper for the horn install. There's no direct path like I was hoping adjacent to the FMIC cold pipe that leads up to the throttle body. There is, however, a large void space behind the fog light area going into the fenderwell, pretty much where CAI filters sit. Also, if you take out the entire intake assembly, you can probably fit a baby or 2 in the space that the intake and resonator box occupies. I'll update with pics when I get home. Currently sitting at a VA health clinic waiting to get blood drawn
Sitting at a VA hospital. That sounds like fun. My HPS intake just got here, think I'm going to install it as a short ram today and save the bumper removal fun for this weekend.
I'd recommend grabbing at least 10 extra bumper clips from the dealer. PN 91505-TM8-003
They like to break easily. My local dealer sold em at 83 cents a piece. Majestic has em for hella cheaper (like.. 37 cents each), but they kill you on shipping costs.
I had the bumper off today to start figuring it out. Ended up re-routing my HID relay harness wiring for a cleaner look. I have a basic shape in mind, it's just all the measuring and what have you that I have left. Fog light panel was more of a pain to take off than I had expected, even with the bumper off. Very doable, but more of a pain than it should've been
I'd recommend grabbing at least 10 extra bumper clips from the dealer. PN 91505-TM8-003
They like to break easily. My local dealer sold em at 83 cents a piece. Majestic has em for hella cheaper (like.. 37 cents each), but they kill you on shipping costs.
I had the bumper off today to start figuring it out. Ended up re-routing my HID relay harness wiring for a cleaner look. I have a basic shape in mind, it's just all the measuring and what have you that I have left. Fog light panel was more of a pain to take off than I had expected, even with the bumper off. Very doable, but more of a pain than it should've been
Just did the Ktuner flash and wow it made a huge difference in feel. I realize this car will never, ever be a R/T Charger 6.5L V8 (used to have one) but it makes it much funner to drive knowing that if I want to pass or just be an ******e I can do that.
F'in hell this is a pain in the *** to do. I'm not using a Dremel because it tends to melt plastic and cut into crap I don't want to damage. Over on civicx (yeah, I see you're on there, too. Lol), there's a dude that said he used a box cutter, so I'm following suit. He allegedly spent 5 hours per side to do the entire thing. I'm only planning on doing 9 (to match the horn cutout on the passenger side), and these 3 have taken me a freaking hour. I've already committed at this point.
Edit: apparently it decided to take my text out....
Made a little more progress this morning, Only took me an hour and a half for the remaining 6 holes I wanted to cut out. Figured I'd save my hands and look up how to use a dremel and not melt the crap out of the plastic. I literally googled "cut thick plastic dremel." Turns out Dremel has a tutorial video for how to use a dremel to cut out RC car bodies. Yes, I know RC car bodies are thin plastic, but their video didn't melt the plastic when it cut, so I figured it was worth a shot.
They recommended to use the detailer's grip and a 561 fluted cutting bit. Lucky for me, the dremel kit I bought included both of those. It still grabbed a bit and cut into some pieces I didn't want it to, but it was a whole hell of a lot easier to do than force a box cutter through 1/8" ABS. And yes, I found out that the faux vent is made of ABS by giving the backside of the vent a wipedown using acetone. I did it on purpose to find out if it was PE or ABS, and the almost immediate melting told me it was ABS, and I'm kinda glad it is. Was able to smooth out minor blemishes and fill hollow parts on the back with ABS glue I made a while back. Makes it a bit easier to figure out a way to mount the intake "stack" to the backside of the vent. At least these opened holes will allow air to enter the engine bay thanks to the architecture, so I theoretically should be seeing a slight decrease in IAT temps. Stage 1, done. Stage 2: fab up the inlet. Stay tuned, kids
Last edited by xRiCeBoYx; Aug 22, 2019 at 11:52 AM.
Keep us updated. It seems like there should be a definite improvement in IAT temperatures.I'm waiting for my honeycomb grill to get here before I take the bumper off. How hard is it to remove the fog light housing?
You can do it without taking the bumper off. Kind of a pain in the ***, but doable, for sure. 3 clips/tabs you have to release on the top, one on the outboard side, one inboard side, 2 or so on bottom, and one plastic bumper clip on the inside (accessible once you release the top 3 and outboard clips/tabs). I have a plastic panel prybar set ($5 on wish.com lol) and it was able to separate all of the tabs without remotely scuffing the paint.
You can do it without taking the bumper off. Kind of a pain in the ***, but doable, for sure. 3 clips/tabs you have to release on the top, one on the outboard side, one inboard side, 2 or so on bottom, and one plastic bumper clip on the inside (accessible once you release the top 3 and outboard clips/tabs). I have a plastic panel prybar set ($5 on wish.com lol) and it was able to separate all of the tabs without remotely scuffing the paint.
the tl;dr version of it. removal of those 9 hexagons in the honeycomb showed a slight but noticeable drop in average IATs
I got started with CAI and honeycomb grill install today, I got top IAT temps around 40 over ambient sitting still then dropping down to 10-15 over ambient when I got moving with the bumper off. I also got sanding down the leading edges of my wheel well liners which I didn't see until I got home. Planning on finishing up tomorrow and then I will further report.
Edit: apparently it decided to take my text out....
Nice work. That's some dremel patients right there. My 27Won intake is in the mail and now you got me thinking about removing that fog light cover. Unfortunately it's not a fake vent in the Sedans. It's literally a flat piece of plastic... lame. Time to get creative.
