Rep Power: 511

Alright guys. We know the Honda Civic is notorious for having a wimpy *** horn. The 10thgen is no exception. In fact, they increased the tone frequency, from previous gens, so it sounds even wimpier. It's bloody terrible. So I did something about it. I didn't take very many pics, 1) because it was hot as **** out and 2) had to do a bit of finagling to get them to fit in such a confined space. This DIY guide was done with a pair of Wolo Maxi 320-2T horns, and they are considerably larger than the OEM metal diaphragm horn. Smaller horns, like the Hella Super or Sharp Tones would probably be a lot easier to fit. However, I came up with a mounting solution that worked... until it was time to install the bumper, and my fog lights got in the way. Good news for you fog light-less folk out there! I very well could have utilized the LARGE void on the driver's side, as well, since there are at least 3 (4, in actuality, I think) riv-nut type things on the driver's side behind the bumper (presumably mounting locations for the CDM windshield washer reservoir), but I have plans for that area. In any case...



How it do:

1. Take off your front bumper and set it aside (video here)
   1. In the engine bay, there are... a **** ton of clips you'll have to remove. Easily done with a flathead screwdriver. above each headlight, there are 3 smooth-top clips each on top of the weather seal. They're a bit of a pain to take off, but doable with a flathead, even easier with the plastic fastener removal tool. They also make a very disconcerting cracking sound when you pop them off. Above each headlight, right on that trim piece, there are 2 slots each. There's a clip you have to depress to release that trim piece from the headlight. That 5mm allen wrench I said you needed works great here.
   2. In each fenderwell, there are 2 Phillips head screws each.
   3. Under the car, there's a massive **** ton more clips, 2-10mm bolts (on each far end), and 2 hex head bolts you'll need that 5mm allen wrench for.
   4. Once all those clips are removed, Start at one fender and give it a good yank. Some recommend using a flathead or something to release the clips on the fender and headlights, but a good yank will do just fine. More disconcerting crack sounds, but they release with good yanks.
   5. Once all of those are released, you can probably feel the bumper wanting to come off. If you have fog lights, BE CAREFUL. You yank the bumper off without disconnecting the fog lights, and you'll find yourself re-wiring those, too.
   
   You should now be staring at a bumperless car. Congrats! Now navigate to where the passenger's side foglight was (or would be if you don't have fogs)
2. Look at this wimpy *** thing. Lol. Disconnect the pigtail from the horn and use a 12mm socket on the bolt with the red arrow. You can now take your horn and set it aside, throw it at your neighbor's cat, set it on fire, etc. I took off the bolt marked with blue to take off the OEM horn bracket so I could fit more in that small space. I'd recommend it, too.
   
   1. Furthermore, you see the FMIC pipe right in front of that OEM horn? 4 bolts holding it on, all use a 10mm socket. Take that sucker off to make your life easier. Don't worry, it's a rubber gasket. You don't have to replace it when you break that seal. You may want to take it off prior to tackling the horn bracket, truth be told..
3. Lets take a minute to compare the OEM horn and the Wolo horns.
   
   These suckers are so much bigger than the OEM one. Now you may have an idea of why I didn't take very many pics during the install, since I had to finagle these guys in place so they wouldn't hit anything, rattle against anything, nor would they snap off wiring. Attached to the horn's spade connectors, you can see the purple female spade connectors I used. They have adhesive lined shrink wrap attached to them. They're quite fancy.
4. Here's the horn adapter harness, and I don't have my own picture of it, so here's from College Hills Honda's website
   
   image source: https://www.collegehillshonda.com/product/0S18.html
   I guess earlier iterations of this harness didn't plug into the 10thgen horn pigtail, but this one does. I can personally attest to that. With everything taken apart, use this time to figure out how you're gonna wire all of it. Wolo states that it doesn't matter which spade connectors is positive or negative, just that you're completing the circuit. Whatever you choose to do, just make sure that you're wiring these guys up in parallel, not series. Below is a wiring diagram I drafted up for you guys. Sidenote, I've also seen people use those piggyback spade connectors, too, but I couldn't find any, hence my usage of those t-taps.
   
5. With your wiring figured out, now you gotta figure out how the hell to mount these guys. Cool thing, Wolo includes 2 flat brackets you can use, as well as 2-10mm nuts and 2-14mm nuts and bolts, all with lock washers, for your mounting pleasure. Both of these, I had to put in a vice and put 2 bends each in to make them fit how I wanted them to. One of the horns, I mounted to where the bracket originally was (the blue marked bolt in step 2). The other, there were a couple of random hex-shaped holes that were being used by... absolutely nothing.. and look at that, the 14mm bolt (I'm assuming M10) fits right in those holes. I used the top one of the two to mount the other horn. In the picture below, I'll put my mounting solutions for those of us with foglights. The second picture will work for you guys without foglights. Just a note for the second pic, there are holes in the aluminum beam on the outboard side. I used the included M10/14mm hardware to mount to one of those holes. You can clearly see the 2 bends I made in that bracket. The other horn was initially mounted with the flat bracket that was attached to the OEM horn. After I realized I needed to change mounting locations, I swapped to the included flat bar bracket, put a couple bends in, and tightened it all down.
   
   Mounting solution with fog lights -- the horn barely extends past the IC piping.
   
   Mounting solution without foglights.
6. At this point, connect everything and give it a test honk. Your fuse box should have a 10A fuse in the horn slot, and given that these draw 7A, you should have zero issues with them.
7. If it's all good to go, put the bumper back on! If you have foglights, don't forget to reconnect them.

Here's a sound comparison video clip. Yes, the video is sideways. Bite me. Yes, I'm wearing a headband. It's hot as ***** here. lol.
The video starts with the Wolo horns honking. Then I disconnect the Wolo horn, connect the OEM, and give it a meep. Just in case it wasn't clear. lol

 
Rep Power: 228

...another thing that I don't need but now have to mod, thx @xRiCeBoYx .

😁

 
Rep Power: 511

C'mon cam, we all know the stock civic horn sucks. Always have, and probably always will

 
Rep Power: 221

I have Hellas sitting in my amazon cart for when i have extra $
Nice job dude

 
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I wish you made a video of the whole process because it's hard to follow your guidelines. No offense, though. It's just my opinion. So, nothing personal.

 
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Well, I get the struggle with fitting those bigger Wolo Maxi horns—sometimes you’ve just got to get creative with the space you have. If you’re ever looking to try something different, I came across these remote-controlled air horns at bosshorn.com . They’re seriously loud and might be a fun project if you want to add a unique twist to your setup. Besides, I think they could make your Civic stand out even more.