Rep Power: 188

okay so ive searched and all i can find is a couple threads about aluminum radiators. but what about aftermarket fan switches? and fan controllers? the difference between the 2? aftermarket rad caps? also with those will you see the temp gauge lower even with a stock rad and fan?

im looking into keeping my car cooler and figured id see what info you guys have to offer.

basically is it worth it to get an aftermarket switch or controller? or just save for an aluminum radiator?

for the record in my car the needle gets a little more that 1/3 the way up the gauge but not quite 1/2 way during hard driving.

 
Rep Power: 518

Why?


Don't use the gauge on the dash, it's dummyfied. "the temperature gauge doesn’t operate in a linear fashion like a fuel level gauge does."

Use an accurate temp readout via the OBD2 diagnosis port.
Use the data the PCM sees. Its sensor is in the end of the head, right?

Use this data method before deciding you want to run cooler. See what it really is.

Normal ECT range @ operating temp is anywhere from 180*F to 215 or so.
180 is regulated by the thermostat, and the fan switch should run the fan at around 212.

If you run hard enough to get it over about 220-225, then I'd think you either need to slow down or actually do something about it.
I'd think keep the 180 stat and add capacity in the form of a larger radiator, if you drive this thing on the street at all.

Too cool leads to condensation buildup and acid formation in the oil/crankcase.
Too cool kills gas mileage.
Too cool can lead to oil dilution and fuel contamination.
All are bad.
Don't expect much heat in the winter either.

HTH

 
Rep Power: 367

dayton, ohio...
do you really need too much cooling? i lived a year and half in quebec, know what i am talking about.

and before getting radiators, better to get a oil temp gauge to learn that coolant could go down, but oil might not... I would rather have a custom oil cooler than a fancy radiator... Learned on track days, when the normal gauge would be fine but oil temps soot up and pressure shoot down - that is what kills engines. coolant will be too late to act. oil saves the engine.
if ye don't run track, there's not need of fancy rads, rather a good maintenance and checking regularly conditions.

 
Rep Power: 518

Excellent points.

Oil temp takes a looong time to come up, and takes a long time to cool down again. It certainly does not follow the coolant temp immediately.

You can get a simple sender that sticks in place of the dipstick.

 
Rep Power: 188

thanks guys. exactly what i wanted to know. i was already planning on getting an oil pressure gauge in the near future but i might just get both pressure and temp. as for an accurate reading through the obd2 port, i dont have the money for one of the fancy scanners that do that too lol. although me and the guy from oreillys are pretty cool. im sure i could get him to plug it in and see what it is after driving for a while.

then again this is the guy who told me my d16y8/2000 ex didnt have vtec lol.

anyways rep has been applied guys

edit: sorry ezone le forumz doesnt want me to give u reps.

 
Rep Power: 518

You don't really need a fancy scanner for that.


Forget it.
If you are going to try to read coolant temps, you need it in real-time. Not 5 minutes after the fact..... You need something on the dash all the time.



Some of the cheapo code readers have a simple "generic" datalist display capability, and I know there are accessory things that plug in to the port and can display like 4 items of data at a time.....no idea what it's called, but I have seen them in ricers before. I gotta unplug them every time I have to plug in a real scanner.....

Found one:


There is all sorts of stuff for smart phones and laptops too.

 
Rep Power: 188

hmm that model is a pretty cool little scanner. but not for $400

anyone know of any similar ones cheaper?

 
Rep Power: 367

look on dezod, our sponsor, or corsport for gauges instead