What's wrong with this turbo kit?
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What's wrong with this turbo kit?
Why is everyone waiting for HKS,GREDDY,F-MAX,etc... to come out with a turbo kit for our car's when turbo-performance offers one. Just thought that maybe you all knew something about it that i didnt???? Other than the low boost pressure due to our fuel system..
The Standard One
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i think alot of it is talk... people saying ya i cant wait till the HKS turbo comes out. i would even pay 5k, blah blah blah... but when it comes down to it, i doubt most of those people would even get it. i would think the turbo-performance is even just as good if not even a better deal then a HKS. dont they use a turbonetics t4 in a t3 housing or something. but ya i think majority of it is talk. the rest is a matter of a companys reputation. like people prefer nike compared to shoes at payless.
no matter what turbo set up you go with, u have to convert our cars fuel system to return. basically, take the fuel rail from a d16 and tap the injectors in and a fuel pressure regulator. take and fuel lines and connect them to the rail. then you have to tap into the gas tank and install a vaccuum jet pump to pump fuel from one side of the tank to the other. once thats done, u can then go and being working on the turbo. once that's done then you get hte fun task of trickin the map sensor to think its NOT revieving any boost (bleeder valves, etc). or go stand alone but its not worth it with our cars since our safest boost level is 6 psi, 7 is pushing it but i might be able to do it since if i go turbo im converting the fuel system. just stuff i thought everyone would wanna know so they dont just pop a turbo on then blow their motor.
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Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: PESTLNC
Nike can bite my [IMG]i/expressions/moon.gif[/IMG]. I remember when $60 for a pair of shoes was outrageous. Luckily, I can't wear sneakers anymore...so screw them.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: PESTLNC
Nike can bite my [IMG]i/expressions/moon.gif[/IMG]. I remember when $60 for a pair of shoes was outrageous. Luckily, I can't wear sneakers anymore...so screw them.[hr]
Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: TYPE7RS
what the hell are YOU talking about?[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG][hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: TYPE7RS
Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: PESTLNC
Nike can bite my [IMG]i/expressions/moon.gif[/IMG]. I remember when $60 for a pair of shoes was outrageous. Luckily, I can't wear sneakers anymore...so screw them.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: PESTLNC
Nike can bite my [IMG]i/expressions/moon.gif[/IMG]. I remember when $60 for a pair of shoes was outrageous. Luckily, I can't wear sneakers anymore...so screw them.[hr]
"like people prefer nike compared to shoes at payless."
...read above...
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Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: CivicPunker17
no matter what turbo set up you go with, u have to convert our cars fuel system to return. basically, take the fuel rail from a d16 and tap the injectors in and a fuel pressure regulator. take and fuel lines and connect them to the rail. then you have to tap into the gas tank and install a vaccuum jet pump to pump fuel from one side of the tank to the other. once thats done, u can then go and being working on the turbo. once that's done then you get hte fun task of trickin the map sensor to think its NOT revieving any boost (bleeder valves, etc). or go stand alone but its not worth it with our cars since our safest boost level is 6 psi, 7 is pushing it but i might be able to do it since if i go turbo im converting the fuel system. just stuff i thought everyone would wanna know so they dont just pop a turbo on then blow their motor.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: CivicPunker17
no matter what turbo set up you go with, u have to convert our cars fuel system to return. basically, take the fuel rail from a d16 and tap the injectors in and a fuel pressure regulator. take and fuel lines and connect them to the rail. then you have to tap into the gas tank and install a vaccuum jet pump to pump fuel from one side of the tank to the other. once thats done, u can then go and being working on the turbo. once that's done then you get hte fun task of trickin the map sensor to think its NOT revieving any boost (bleeder valves, etc). or go stand alone but its not worth it with our cars since our safest boost level is 6 psi, 7 is pushing it but i might be able to do it since if i go turbo im converting the fuel system. just stuff i thought everyone would wanna know so they dont just pop a turbo on then blow their motor.[hr]
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17VtecE is exactly right. My kit would pass emissions by the sniffer test, but not by the technical items, as my air filter is exposed, and my dumptube from the wastegate is not tied into the exhaust.
HKS, RevHard, and all the others have to produce the kit as CARB exempt if they want to sell them in California, Virginia, Texas, and other states with those laws, and they don't want to produce a kit that can't be sold there.
HKS, RevHard, and all the others have to produce the kit as CARB exempt if they want to sell them in California, Virginia, Texas, and other states with those laws, and they don't want to produce a kit that can't be sold there.
moocow has already admitted that his turbo from turbo-perform, did not produce "amazing gains." the fuel system wasn't upgraded. the T3/T4 turbo they used also has a lot of turbo lag.
HKS is having trouble bringing the kit out because they're out of california. hardly anything you make is street legal there so theyre not gonna produce something they cant sell to their own state. theyve done it, the turbo works and all, but its just all that C.A.R.B. legal crap that they can't get around.
and i can see MooCow's set up kind of sucking. first off his fuel system wasn't converted. second the t3/t4 is a little big for our motor so its gonna produce lag. the best thing to go with is a t3 or a t28. if i go with this ill probably go with a t28 from a sylvia and use an internal wastegate.
and be careful running 8psi riceburner. its sick you got the turbo cause i definetly want one. but our intake manifolds are plastic and we can't get crazy with boost even if we did internals. we need a new manifold first. i heard something where HKS tried that and it blew the manifold. how many psi are you running though daily now?
and i can see MooCow's set up kind of sucking. first off his fuel system wasn't converted. second the t3/t4 is a little big for our motor so its gonna produce lag. the best thing to go with is a t3 or a t28. if i go with this ill probably go with a t28 from a sylvia and use an internal wastegate.
and be careful running 8psi riceburner. its sick you got the turbo cause i definetly want one. but our intake manifolds are plastic and we can't get crazy with boost even if we did internals. we need a new manifold first. i heard something where HKS tried that and it blew the manifold. how many psi are you running though daily now?
The Standard One
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ya thats why i dont think its worth hooking up our cars(engine wise)... i dont want to spend that much money to try and beat stock rsx's.
RiceBurnrEX, can you scan your dyno sheet? and have you taken your car to the track?
probably do what 15s. not worth it to me.
RiceBurnrEX, can you scan your dyno sheet? and have you taken your car to the track?
probably do what 15s. not worth it to me.
actually, no.. if he truley does get 197whp at 8psi... his times are probably low 14's easy. Think about it, the rsx-s doesn't even get that much to the wheels and it does high 14's. The WRX gets 227 at the CRANK, and only around 175 at the wheels... and does high 13's low 14's. Our car isn't a wrx, but I would expect decent times with 197whp..
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My pictures are up on my web site. You should see a link saying "2001 Civic EX Turbo Project," click this. I have pictures and a description of the kit, along with the dyno sheet showing my low boost and high boost daily driving settings.
CivicPunker17... the intake manifold being plastic is actually better. It's ABS plastic, able to withstand the same boost pressures as a stock metal manifold, which is around 12psi. HKS blew their engine due to bad fuel management, I have been in contact with them throughout the entire project. This plastic manifold is better because it will not heat up as the metal manifold would, keeping the air cooler going into the engine, producing more horsepower.
I am running low boost of 4psi (154hp) and high boost of 8psi (197hp) daily, and will not be going above this until I am able to completely rebuild the engine. It should be perfectly safe on these settings until then.
CivicPunker17... the intake manifold being plastic is actually better. It's ABS plastic, able to withstand the same boost pressures as a stock metal manifold, which is around 12psi. HKS blew their engine due to bad fuel management, I have been in contact with them throughout the entire project. This plastic manifold is better because it will not heat up as the metal manifold would, keeping the air cooler going into the engine, producing more horsepower.
I am running low boost of 4psi (154hp) and high boost of 8psi (197hp) daily, and will not be going above this until I am able to completely rebuild the engine. It should be perfectly safe on these settings until then.
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The "Haltec" fuel system you talk about. I want know everything about it.
-how much$$$$
-where you bought it
-what it does exactly (I have an idea)
-where can i find it on the web
Could the Apex AFV provide enough fuel management for a turbo???
-how much$$$$
-where you bought it
-what it does exactly (I have an idea)
-where can i find it on the web
Could the Apex AFV provide enough fuel management for a turbo???
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Go to www.haltech.com, it's the F5 computer. It's a computer you use in addition to your stock ECM and fuel system, and it runs additional injectors, not your stock injectors.
Cost is $600, and it must be dyno tuned. I got it from the same place that did the rest of the kit, Jotech Motorsports in Garland, Texas (just outside Dallas). If you want to talk to them, call Tony at Jotech at (972) 278-9744.
Edit: did you mean the Apex'I V-AFC? If so, then the answer is no, neither the V-AFC or S-AFC would be able to work, because they cannot vary fuel pressure relative to boost in the way that is needed. Those electronics are made for normally aspirated engines, some people use them with FI applications, but it's not a good idea. Plus they're a ***** to tune.
Cost is $600, and it must be dyno tuned. I got it from the same place that did the rest of the kit, Jotech Motorsports in Garland, Texas (just outside Dallas). If you want to talk to them, call Tony at Jotech at (972) 278-9744.
Edit: did you mean the Apex'I V-AFC? If so, then the answer is no, neither the V-AFC or S-AFC would be able to work, because they cannot vary fuel pressure relative to boost in the way that is needed. Those electronics are made for normally aspirated engines, some people use them with FI applications, but it's not a good idea. Plus they're a ***** to tune.
RiceBurnrEX - Did you have to modify anything to fit the turbo, charge pipes, and Intercooler? Like removing A/C? For fuel management, you mean that when the Map senor detects boost the Haltech system takes car of that? I mean if I were to use a cheaper fuel management like s-afc hack with larger injectors will I need the missing link to fool the ecu from seeing boost? Kinda on a budject and just wanted to see if that setup will work. 1 last thing. Can you post total cost with parts and labor? Im starting my own turbo kit and need a manifold. I will have more questions for you later. I envy you ride!!!
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My final cost I'm keeping to myself, the total project involved a lot more than just the turbo. Jotech could do just the turbo for someone else for $6,600 without the pipes painted, boost controller, or upgraded clutch that I got.
Nitek- everything fit, only the front bumper had to be modified to fit the intercooler, and you can see all the modification in the picture. All we had to do was remove the black grill and my stock foglights and it all fit. The Haltech computer has its own map sensor, and the stock map sensor has missing link check valves on it to keep the ECM from seeing boost. You could go with the S-AFC method... but I would highly recommend against it. It can't vary fuel vs. boost, so you'd have to retune it every time you changed boost levels or the temperature changed outside more than 10 degrees, and that would get expensive very fast, as you need a dyno to tune the S-AFC as well. If you go with the Haltech, once it's tuned, it stays tuned no matter what boost setting or outside temperature, unless you change something in the motor or turbo setup itself. This project really can't be done on a budget... it's new and so it's expensive. Getting a manifold of good quality made would cost you at least $700 probably. No one makes one that will work, the turbo-performance one is of very poor quality, we ordered one and looked at it.... the welds were horrible. If you have any more questions, contact me at Scotty@speedingtexan.com.
Nitek- everything fit, only the front bumper had to be modified to fit the intercooler, and you can see all the modification in the picture. All we had to do was remove the black grill and my stock foglights and it all fit. The Haltech computer has its own map sensor, and the stock map sensor has missing link check valves on it to keep the ECM from seeing boost. You could go with the S-AFC method... but I would highly recommend against it. It can't vary fuel vs. boost, so you'd have to retune it every time you changed boost levels or the temperature changed outside more than 10 degrees, and that would get expensive very fast, as you need a dyno to tune the S-AFC as well. If you go with the Haltech, once it's tuned, it stays tuned no matter what boost setting or outside temperature, unless you change something in the motor or turbo setup itself. This project really can't be done on a budget... it's new and so it's expensive. Getting a manifold of good quality made would cost you at least $700 probably. No one makes one that will work, the turbo-performance one is of very poor quality, we ordered one and looked at it.... the welds were horrible. If you have any more questions, contact me at Scotty@speedingtexan.com.
The Standard One
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damn, thats a phat setup... must have cost a pretty penny. even already getting magazine coverage...
thats what seperates people like you from people like me. hopefully one day i'll be leading the pack like you.
not to get off the subject but I love ricerburnex's avatar got that $ht is funny i laugh everytime i see it. sorry jsut felt like saying that. but great job on the turbo. have u raced anyone yet. or even just got on it to feel the real power of it. a nd final question are u going to put a filter on it or u just going to leave it drag style?
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We're having to reposition a few things to make the filter work, and to do this had to order parts, we'll put the filter on next week. right now it's got mesh to protect the turbo and an inline filter before the intercooler.
oh ok. so do u notice the power when u get on it or is it just a subtle notice? and is the BOV loud and can u hear it just at normal shifts or only whenu get on it. and is the turbo loud for when it spools up
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