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I know this has been asked before but I had a few extra questions I wanted to ask and all the other posts were from a long time ago.

I'm thinking of removing the stock air box from my Civic EX. But when I remove it woudln't that mean ther's a big hole rite next to the stock filter? Would there be any chance of anything going in there that could hurt by engine?

Would building my own SRI with PVC pipe or some sort of pipe make it better?

Ya, i know i'm a noob.

Thanks,

 
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the resonator charges the intake ports at low rpm and provides some extra power. yes it does serve a purpose

 
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and whatever you do:


DO NOT USE PVC PIPE!

 
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Stock is the best thing for our cars unless you go forced induction or build the car. Honda has put 1000's of hours into makeing the car as efficient and as powerful as possible while following the ULEV guidelines.

 
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Yep, sad but true. Everything from the resonator to the plastic intake manifold. The car is as efficient as possible. Took me a while to realize that as well..

 
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no...doesn't make sense. If a car is as efficient as possible. then why next year they are able to come out with another car that's more efficient. That's why you have companies like aem there to make the best of it for a few more bucks. it's like upgrading your computer. no

 
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well after all that engineering, the new civic only has 10hp more but thats because its 1.8L now. upgrading a car is nothing like upgrading a computer. at least with a computer, the new part actually does something better. on a car, it either does something the same or worse. maybe 1-2 hp better but you have to wonder if thats worth the $200-300 you're paying for each hp.

 
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just get nitrious or go turbo alot more bang for the buck. 50+hp for $600ish with N20, and 80+hp for $1500-$4000 depending on how you do a kit.

 
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You familiar with a little thing called ADVANCING TECHNOLOGY?
Honda did a pretty good job of optimizing the engine, which is why when you put one of those stick and filter jobs on, you gain maybe 2 horsepower, but at the expense of the entire bottom end of the power band.

 
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PVC could be if-y.
Yeah, if you are going to build your own, use something that's built for it. Like the Spectre PowerAdder components (or other brands). It's a modular system for DIY intakes. Like, $10 for a 6-8 inch straight piece, plus elbows in various angles. I think they come in 3-4 inch diameters. Now that I realize what that intake resonator is, I might just add a couple pieces to drop the intake (to the resonator) down behind the bumper and leave the rest of it stock. I like to keep the low-mid grunt (where the engine spends most of it's time) and just try to provide cooler air. Plus it's (almost) dirt cheap.
Now if I can just figure out how to snake it around the battery area.

 
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From my experience and I am not expert the short air intakes take away from the low end torque and mainly just add a lot of noise. I was able to configure a setup that would access cold air, maintain low end torque with little extra noise at WOT. It is similar to what Phun Siz was describing, but what I found for our civics was bigger was not always better.
As I have an auto tranny and live in the mile high city I need all the power I an get from my car.

 
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Hey 2K1_Sedan, can you give a little more info? How'd you set it up? Where did you run it to? What pipe diameter? So you kept the intake resonator?
Thanks

 
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^^its called a cold air intake