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someone told me that you cant mix the aem pulleys with the ur crank because it will underdrive the car too much or that the belts wont fit right.... i have the aem ps and alt and the ur crank but havent put them in yet.... should i put them in or not? ive been meaning to ask for a while. any suggestions?

 
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I already answer this question, read my replies...

 
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This question goes on and on any moderator or super platinum diamond guys in here with ur pulleys and system please take up the plate and answer all these questions to end this thread once and for all. I am planning on buying these pulleys but am not sure as to my decision since no one really answered the question right that really sounded convincing.

 
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yeah there is talk that it will throw off the balance of the crank shaft but on our cars the crank is internally balanced. There is no way that the pulley can throw off the crank balance being that it is an internally balanced crankshaft.

 
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Sorry I didn't have enough posts to satisfy you, dude I researched this a year and a half ago when I was trying to figure all of this out. I looked at AEM & UR, then finally spoke with UR. Now I have the Crank & Alt pulleys on this B18 that has over 10K hard miles with no problems:

Like I said before, most of the problems that have been traceable to the crank pulleys have showed up on B16/B18 Honda/Acura engines (note to newbies: neither one is a 7th gen motor) & some Mazda engines. UR says if they are to be built for high horsepower applications the factory oil pump needs to be upgraded, but as rino said, on most import engines UR claims balance isn't really an issue.

With just basic intake/header/exhaust bolt-ons, the pulley set is going to work well for our 7th gens. If you blow the engine there will probably be plenty of other reasons to go around .

 
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If the crank pulley is not balanced, it will shorten your engine life. People’s oil pumps are failing because their crank bearings are wearing out quicker due to the unbalanced crank. Most of your oil pressure comes from the crank bearings. The right way of doing things is to have your crank balance with the new pulley. Otherwise your just putting the future reliability of your engine in question. I think the first signs of engine failure would be lower then factory spec oil pressure. You could always drop your oil pan ever few thousand miles and check your bearing with some plasta gauge

 
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Gah, a lot of different things being said.

Any aftermarket crank that does not have the harmonic dampener will greatly wear out your engine.

What a harmonic dampener does is it's this donut shaped rubber thing that dampens the shock and the vibrations from the engine that comes from the revving of the engine. Without a dampener, it puts a lot more stress on the crankshaft and basically the whole engine.

I read in some other thread that Unorthodox Racing said that the D17 does not have a dampener, and therefore aftermarket pulleys are okay. Of course, they could be saying this because they just want to sell the product, so who knows. There is a simall rubber ring, but it might not be dampener. According to them, it's for noise reduction (hence probably that squeaking sound for the guy with the RVM)

As for that B18 engine, though you don't have problems, it's putting a strain on your engine. The wear and tear on the engine's not worth it.

I have no idea about the D17 though. But conventionally, aftermarket crank pulleys are not good for the engine.

 
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ok, you beat me to it.

I would quote from "Honda/Acura Engine Performance" (yes, it's a book -- and a good read!), but you kinda said what I was going to say.

the harmonic dampener is not something to be taken lightly. using an aftermarket crank pulley that doesn't account for the harmonic dampener is SOMETIMES ok...but not in our situation. I wouldn't mix the kits. go with either the UR, OR the AEM kits.

I just finished researching this, as I already have the AEM kit, and wanted the UR kit. I'm going to stick it out with the AEM kit ALONE.

the reason: there is one paragraph in the book mentioned above that clearly states why you shouldn't mix the pulley sets. there's actually an entire section in the book about underdrive pullies, and it lists the differences between the UR and AEM pullies, and why you shouldn't mix the two.

it was sitting there as plain as day in one of the paragraphs!

so...I'm not gonna do it!

hope this helps.

 
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Ok so Aem is good Ur is bad? How about my system I have 12 inch speaker and an amp in the back will it screw up my electrical stuff?
I have very bright raybrig bulbs too which kinda dim out whenever i put the bass way up. i think the amp says 350x2 or something am sorry dunce on stuff like these? what will happen if i had aem and what if i had ur? one last please thanks guys

 
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no, UR isn't bad. you just shouldn't mix the two of them together.

if you get the pullies and are planning on running a big thumping system, get a voltmeter installed.

if things are starting to get a bit low, turn off the system. make sure that you drive around for a bit until the voltmeter goes back up, too.

but...the book also said that if you plan on running a system, some crazy lights, etc, then you might not want to underdrive the alternator.

in this case, the UR pullies might be a better alternative, because (if I remember correctly), they don't underdrive the alternator.

read up on the UR pullies to see what pullies they replace (if you haven't already). if they don't replace the alternator, go for them.

 
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Thanks man i'm starting to see the light

 
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hehehe cool, good luck in your global conquest