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EJ1. K20A or B18C swap?

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Old Apr 30, 2023
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EJ1. K20A or B18C swap?

Greetings

I'm new to these forums, and to Honda in general. I've been into oldschool BMW's for the past one and a half decade. I've done a couple of engine swaps and know a thing or two about these engines and electronics now, but Honda is a complete different game for me. Recently I've been plating with the idea of buying a 5th gen Civic Coupe. I always loved those cars as a kid. Because I love engine swaps and performance upgrades, I was considering something like a K-swap. These are very popular in Civics. But there are a couple of things holding me back. Where I live, we have annual inspection of our cars, and if they even suspect that the engine is not the original one, it will not pass the inspection. The thing is: with BMW's I've swapped some cars from a 2.2 liter to a 3.0 liter engine. 6cil to 6cil, no one even noticed this, so no one even cared, it passed the inspection flawlessly. Some of these techs are even that dumb that they didn't even notice an M-engine in a non-M car, and a friend of mine swapped his 4cil diesel to a 6cil diesel, also made it past the inspection. Then there are others who have done a 6 to 6-cil swap, and failed inspection because the intake was "slightly" larger and the tech spotted it.

I want to decrease the risk of getting caught. The K-series has the exhaust at the rear and the intake at the front side of the engine. The opposite of what the "normal" civic engines have. Another factor is the cost of finding a K20A. They go for rediculous amounts, IF you manage to find one.

So I was thinking of maybe a B18C engine, an 1.8 liter from an Integra type-R. I do know there's a lot of support for K-swaps, but I can't find a lot about B18C, or maybe even H22 swaps. My questions, if you compare the K20, B18 or even the H22, what can you tell me about:

1. cost efficiency. Which would be cheaper?
2. difficulty to install? (not talking about actually dropping in the engine. More electronics and wiring-wise. BMW has an anti-theft system that if it suspects there's a non-stock ECU in the car, it won't start. How does this work with Honda?)
3. K20A's have 6-speeds, are there 6 speed options for the other swaps? This would be my daily and I don't like the engine screaming at highway speeds
4. performance wise --> Is the B18C somewhat capable of getting close to the K20A?
5. compatibility. Do I need other axles, can I maintain the A/C, how much custom work is needed?

Thank you in advance!
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Old Apr 30, 2023
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Re: EJ1. K20A or B18C swap?

Originally Posted by mega_stihl
Greetings

I'm new to these forums, and to Honda in general. I've been into oldschool BMW's for the past one and a half decade. I've done a couple of engine swaps and know a thing or two about these engines and electronics now, but Honda is a complete different game for me. Recently I've been plating with the idea of buying a 5th gen Civic Coupe. I always loved those cars as a kid. Because I love engine swaps and performance upgrades, I was considering something like a K-swap. These are very popular in Civics. But there are a couple of things holding me back. Where I live, we have annual inspection of our cars, and if they even suspect that the engine is not the original one, it will not pass the inspection. The thing is: with BMW's I've swapped some cars from a 2.2 liter to a 3.0 liter engine. 6cil to 6cil, no one even noticed this, so no one even cared, it passed the inspection flawlessly. Some of these techs are even that dumb that they didn't even notice an M-engine in a non-M car, and a friend of mine swapped his 4cil diesel to a 6cil diesel, also made it past the inspection. Then there are others who have done a 6 to 6-cil swap, and failed inspection because the intake was "slightly" larger and the tech spotted it.

I want to decrease the risk of getting caught. The K-series has the exhaust at the rear and the intake at the front side of the engine. The opposite of what the "normal" civic engines have. Another factor is the cost of finding a K20A. They go for rediculous amounts, IF you manage to find one.

So I was thinking of maybe a B18C engine, an 1.8 liter from an Integra type-R. I do know there's a lot of support for K-swaps, but I can't find a lot about B18C, or maybe even H22 swaps. My questions, if you compare the K20, B18 or even the H22, what can you tell me about:

1. cost efficiency. Which would be cheaper?
2. difficulty to install? (not talking about actually dropping in the engine. More electronics and wiring-wise. BMW has an anti-theft system that if it suspects there's a non-stock ECU in the car, it won't start. How does this work with Honda?)
3. K20A's have 6-speeds, are there 6 speed options for the other swaps? This would be my daily and I don't like the engine screaming at highway speeds
4. performance wise --> Is the B18C somewhat capable of getting close to the K20A?
5. compatibility. Do I need other axles, can I maintain the A/C, how much custom work is needed?

Thank you in advance!
1. Tough to say, b18s are getting rarer and more expensive
2. B is more "bolt-in" vs k because the Si and type r came with a B. You can use Integra parts to reduce cost and make things easier. No anti theft, just need harness and computer. Ks need fancy aftermarket mounts, plus you might need aftermarket axles.
3. No 6 speed for Bs
4. You can get a B to the same area as a k with tuning and boost. However a tuned and boosted k will far exceed the b.
5. You will need be series axles and trans, plus mounts. You can keep the ac if you dont boost it, might be possible with a turbo, just alot less real estate.

A b series swap will look way more factory than a k, especially if you use a factory air box and exhaust. They will be fine on a non boosted car
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Old Apr 30, 2023
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Re: EJ1. K20A or B18C swap?

Originally Posted by Colin42
1. Tough to say, b18s are getting rarer and more expensive
2. B is more "bolt-in" vs k because the Si and type r came with a B. You can use Integra parts to reduce cost and make things easier. No anti theft, just need harness and computer. Ks need fancy aftermarket mounts, plus you might need aftermarket axles.
3. No 6 speed for Bs
4. You can get a B to the same area as a k with tuning and boost. However a tuned and boosted k will far exceed the b.
5. You will need be series axles and trans, plus mounts. You can keep the ac if you dont boost it, might be possible with a turbo, just alot less real estate.

A b series swap will look way more factory than a k, especially if you use a factory air box and exhaust. They will be fine on a non boosted car
Thanks for your reply

3. That's unfortunate. A 6 speed is almost a necessity because of the short gearing. Is there no way I can somehow match a 6 speed from lets say a K-series?
4. Boost is out of the question. If they open my hood and see a turbo, there is 0 chance of me passing inspection
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Old Apr 30, 2023
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Re: EJ1. K20A or B18C swap?

Originally Posted by mega_stihl
Thanks for your reply

3. That's unfortunate. A 6 speed is almost a necessity because of the short gearing. Is there no way I can somehow match a 6 speed from lets say a K-series?
Not that I'm aware of. As long as you dont have a stupid exhaust on it it's not very loud at 3-3.5k rpms. Adding some sound deadening would help alot

Originally Posted by mega_stihl
4. Boost is out of the question. If they open my hood and see a turbo, there is 0 chance of me passing inspection
Figured as much
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Old Apr 30, 2023
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Re: EJ1. K20A or B18C swap?

Not sure how emissions testing goes, but you may be required to go B series simply based on the fact that the K series is OBD2 only, and all 5th gens are OBD1. I’m not entirely sure how that works though.

LS transmissions have fairly long gearing. I’m pretty sure I was under 3k rpm on the highway with my Integra.
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Old Apr 30, 2023
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Re: EJ1. K20A or B18C swap?

my 95, they did a pipe sniffing.
they would put a dog in there to sniff gases.
Joke! it's a sensor

not sure in Belgium, though
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Old May 1, 2023
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Re: EJ1. K20A or B18C swap?

emissions-wise it's no big deal. They do measure the co per volume with a pipe in the exhaust. As long as you have a working catalytic converter and your engine is not running too rich or too lean, you should be fine.

Thanks again for the replies!
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