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Hello everyone,
I have been trying several ways to remove my harmonic balancer nut on my 93 Civic DX (D15B7). First was my impact wrench. Nothing. Now I've now snapped one ratchet and one 1/2" to 3/8" adapter. The adapter snapped after I used a breaker bar and a 5 foot long pipe set on a jack to balance it as a fulcrum. I used PB blaster...still no luck.

I unfortunately do not have a torch. Any other ideas. I've heard of using the starter but it seems to turn the wrong way (counter clockwise). If I wedge a breaker bar in there it is only going to tighten it even more.

Any chance these are reverse threaded? I am at a loss at this point.

Thanks

 
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there's cheap torches in autopart stores - just a can.

 
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Did you use impact rated tools? Do the same method you did but add a little heat and use impact rated sockets and extensions. 1/2" drive not 3/8".

Do you have the pulley holding tool? If not it makes it easier. You can't use the starter method, engine spins the wrong way.



This pic is a 94 Civic

 
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My harmonic balancer is the the type with about 6 holes around the outer edge. It doesn't have the recessed space for the specialty tool like in the picture. I have been using a screwdriver wedged through the hole to keep it stabilized. I know some vehicles use a puller to remove the balancer but I believe that is after the nut is removed.

I don't have impact tools. I am trying not to spend more on tools than the parts if possible. If all else fails I guess I will put everything back together and have a mechanic pop it off for me. I was just wondering if there were any other tricks I hadn't thought of.

 
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I ended up taking my car down to a guy who was nice enough to remove the nut for me for free. He had to pull out the big impact wrench. When putting it back on he told me he was going to torque it 250 foot pounds. I would have preferred he did it a bit less but I understood not wanting to be liable if it wasn't properly torqued (I think torque spec is like around 140). In any case he assured me that when I got home I could use my air impact gun and remove it.

Long story short, got home ...no luck. Gave it time to cool down...no luck....put PB blaster and waited...no luck. Then I tried again with my breaker bar and ended up bending a very thick Philips Head screwdriver I had wedged in the hole....but no luck.

How in the world can 250lb be giving me so many problems? Is it possible that when driving home the bolt tightened up further? I know there are many many people who deal with this problem...but I am seriously beginning to lose it.

 
Rep Power: 242

250 is way too tight!!

It wouldn't have tightened up that much from going home. It takes a lot of force to bust 250 lbs/ft. Sounds like you need bigger tools.

 
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Yea you definitely didn't need 250 ft/lbs. The reason they torque this on so tight is because it ultimately holds the timing gear behind it. if the nut comes off.. There is a chance the timing gear will slide off and release the timing belt from it's home. Your options are go back and get it torqued to only about 100ft/lbs. Then you will be able to remove it for sure. Or use a chain tool to keep it from spinning. Neither is ideal. I would have no issues driving the car with it torqued to 100ft/lbs.

It does tighten with driving.. seeing the engine spins that way.

 
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spec is something like 181ft-lbs. Manual says to torque to 14ft-lbs, then an extra 1/4 turn

 
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Thanks to everyone for the advice. I ended up breaking down and buying two 10" extension bars that were 1/2" instead of using a 3/8 extension and a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter (which broke twice). After using a 5 foot long pipe I was able to break it off.

It's amazing, I spent over a week and probably over $45 on tools to remove the nut, but only spent about $35 in materials and and 4 hours to replace the timing belt and water pump. I guess a positive way to look at this is I have been able to acquire some new toys (breaker bar, 18" 3/8 extension bar, 17mm 1/2" socket, and two 10" 1/2 extension bars).