dadfixit

Hello,

My daughters car was running fine when she started having this issue. The car will start run for a second then immediately stall. I am a so/so mechanic and would like some pointers on where to start troubleshooting. My simple way of troubleshooting is that it is either gas or electric in nature.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

ezone

Does it lose spark or fuel when it quits?

Will it stay running if you don't let go of the key? (hold inbetween crank and run positions)

dadfixit

I am pretty sure it has gas and spark, but how do I verify when engine stalls?
I will try the Key position to see if it stays running. My guess is if not then the ignition switch contacts are bad?

ezone

The contacts inside the switch get pitted and burned, they can make poor contact.

Frequently, this causes power loss to everything that runs on one of the power feeds in the switch, causing the engine to stall.
(Usually after the switch gets hot, which is due to high resistance of the switch contacts.)

One big clue I look for is the dash idiot lights flicker or go out completely as you rotate the key very slowly near the detent for the 'run' position. Gets worse as it heats up too.


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The engine stalls, but it it hard to start again? Easy? Impossible?
If you wiggle the key (to slightly rotate the switch), can you cause the engine to stall?

dadfixit

I remembered that I replaced the entire switch assembly last year. Essentially it is brand new. I did try rotating the switch back but was not successful in keeping the car running, also did the accelerator half way too. There is one interesting thing though you mentioned the idiot lights not coming on. The dash lights do not come on, but the headlights work...I checked all the fuses that I know of and they are all good. She did have a oil spill when changing the oil, but is was not that bad....could she have shorted something out?
I will look for the dashlight flicker thing when I get home tonight.

Thanks for your continued support I really appreciate it!

ezone

So switch is probably OK?
If the dash lights up full of warning lights when the engine dies, it's probably OK. If the dash goes dark when it dies, the switch is suspect.

Do you mean dash lights as in illumination for the gauges, or do you mean the warning (idiot) lights?

If you mean the illumination lights, that's a totally separate issue altogether.
Do the taillights work?



Depends on the situation (when I need to figure it out).
To watch spark, I might use an inductive timing light, watch the flashing.
To watch fuel delivery, I might connect a voltmeter set to duty cycle or mS to monitor injector pulse, along with a fuel pressure gauge.

I might yank spark plugs out to see what they are like immediately after a stall.

There are many things I might do, and it seems each situation can be different and needs a different approach. I need to experience the situation, observe, and decide what my next move is after that.

I also have a scanner that works with that car, I can read live engine operating data if I need to.



The engine stalls, but it it hard to start again? Easy? Impossible? Gotta wait a while? What?
Describe what happens immediately after the stall event.

dadfixit

I replaced the entire ignition switch assembly and electrical. That works properly now,
All lights, dash, dummy, tail lights, etc work car turns over but wont start now.

Pulled plug and look for spark. Have good spark. Pulled gas out from fuel filter to fuel injectors have gas flow. Also can hear fuel pump run....

WTF! From my point it has gas and spark...

ezone

Are the plugs wet?

Is it flooded?
Got compression?

Hold your gas pedal to the floor while you crank it?

dadfixit

Plugs are not wet, held gas petal to floor. No change. Did change out the distributor and main relay. Car sounded like it wanted to start but didn't then sounded like it wont start.
Brief moment of hope...

Recap on things I have done..
Changed the ignition switch assembly with new
Brand new distributor
Brand new main relay
Verified gas flow from outlet side of filter
Checked electrical connections around motor did not find anything loose or shorted

ezone

Got a spray can of anything flammable? Carb and throttle cleaner is preferred.

Have someone in the car cranking it, and spray a whiff into the throttle body. If it fires (or tries to fire), that's a sign it isn't getting enough fuel injected.

EXCivic759

You need to check the distributor that you just replaced and verify that the three sensors (TDC, Crank angle position sensor and one more; that are housed inside), are working correctly. A lot of times one of the senors on the "New" part are bad. You could swap it out with the place you bought it from.

dadfixit

It was the distributor. The tdc sensor was bad. Didn't realize the distributor I bought was re manufactured. Ordered a new one.... Will wait and see but think that is the problem.

ezone

Wait.....When did you put the distributor in it? You didn't mention that until your last post, so I figured your original problem was still present since it still didn't run..

Now there are at least 2 problems?

Other poster is right.
Reman distributors are a crapshoot.
You might go through several remans before you find a good one....and then you don't know how long it will last.

dadfixit

Sorry about that. The distributor was about 6 months old. Replaced it with a new "REM" one. Your right the re manufactured ones suck! Anyways got the car running good again. What distributor do u recommend if this one craps out.

ezone

Factory parts FTW!



If the original equipment lasted 200,000 miles (or whatever), their replacement should last just as long. Right?