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I have a '99 civic ex coupe and i already have the rears installed and i want to run some amped components to the front (i was thinking some polk db6501's).
Does anybody know how hard it is to actually wire through the door boot? I heard people taking wheels, fenders, wheel wells, and all sorts of crap off to get to it. Also, ive searched, but there no good diys about how to do the front door components in a 6th gen. Has anybody had experience or should i take it to the local store, whose gonna charge $175 for just the front speaker install...

Thanks for any help in advance.

 
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see if you can't get a clothes hanger through that boot into the car then pull the wire through.

 
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Tie the new wire to the end of the old one and pull it through.

 
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Have you actually done it? cause ive heard the 6th gens have a molex that makes everything unnecessarily difficult. Also, how bad is it to try and put 75W RMS through the stock speaker wiring?

 
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Like they said, use a guide wire to guide it through the rubber grommet

I wouldn't advise putting that much power through stock wiring, besides, stock wiring comes through head unit, and i doubt your HU produces that much power

Buy some 18 gauge speaker wire and use those instead

 
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i found out theres a molex there for sure and i have power windows and stuff so its going to be a pain to put it through. Is it alright to run wires to the back of the HU from the amp (16 guage), then tap into the wires there, so i only run it through stock wires for 2 feet or so?

 
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Take a picture of the wires going thru the door, you cant really run wires IN to the HU, its sort of an output only thing :X

 
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Sorry, i explained that wrong. I was going to cut the wires where i had to crimp the wiring harness to the stereo harness, and tap into it there. (by behind the HU i meant in the space behind, not actually on the back of it ). I can't take pics cause im at college right now and have no room to pull it apart, but diymobileaudio (which seems to be down at the moment) had pics of someone taking theirs apart and they had pics of the molex and how to drill through it. Someone i talked to said that if you have all power options, the molex will be full so theres no use in even trying to drill through it.

 
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In theory that could work
I dont know how restrictive those wires would be, though

If it was me, I would rather not waste my time taking apart panels and my deck
I would just drill a hole thru the door panel and run the wire in, then use some silicone seal to seal it in, but thats just me

 
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I know everyone says to run new wires as they can't handle the power but I ran a PPI PC2600 @ 2 ohms (300 watts) through stock wiring in my Wrangle powering 2 sets of Boston Pro 6.5s and never had an issue of the amp shutting down or the wiring getting hot. It is such a short run that you will not have any issues with 75 watts.

 
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It's just that the stock wiring is very restrictive. it will run the speakers, but maybe half the power.

 
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Tigger: I agree there is nothing wrong with running stock wires as long as they don't overheat.

People always make a big deal about what gauge their wires are, and often overdo it. I used solid (hard and not large gauge at all) wire for some of my amp wiring and it works just fine with no overheating. It will still blow the doors off all of my friends stereos that have huge gauge wires on them.

Kenny: It is not going to run at half power period. It may have a little extra resistance but not enough that you could notice in the sound. Overheating would be my only concern.

 
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At wattage, not voltage

 
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Overheating is my main and pretty much only concern. So do you think it would be safer to A)get harnesses and go from amp>rear speaker harness>rear speaker wires>front speaker wires>front speakers or B)wire 16 gauge (i have a bunch of it) from amp to the front speaker wires behind the HU and connect them there.

 
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I gotta 6th gen and did clarion component's in the front (I ended up taking them out...long story..) I just took the stock wire that was already routed through the door and just spliced that. I'm running a 1k Watt amp and they were taking about 180 watts, and no overheating occurred whatsoever. When I replaced the speaker with Boston Acoustic SR60's the wire didn't show any signs of overheating or even water damage. The acoustics are running about the same power and no overheating. So I guess the point I am trying to get at is...stock wire's won't overheat =]