Sub box dimensions/theory
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Re: Sub box dimensions/theory
Yuuup for the most part it does. So heres a question. Being that 2 channel amps tend to be cheaper, is it possible to get a 500w 2 channel amp, bridge and hook them up in parallel that way? Or does it not work like that?
The one thing I don't understand is the whole watts, rms, and ohms. What the hell is driving the subs? The watts, rms (whatever that is), or the ohms?
The one thing I don't understand is the whole watts, rms, and ohms. What the hell is driving the subs? The watts, rms (whatever that is), or the ohms?
the RMS power is the power from the amp. the 12 ohms is the internal resistance of the speakers. the RMS power is what's driving the subs. it's unit of measure is watts.
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Re: Sub box dimensions/theory
^^^ Again with the sage advice from electric130.
In all honesty you may be better off selling your box and speakers as-is for $40 and then putting that towards one 10 or 12" sub with a 4ohm resistance and a decent 2-channel amp. It would probably be much cheaper to go that route, than to try and find a decent, reasonably priced amp that will push enough power to sound good on your 6-ohm setup. Hell even one, newer, 10" sub with two 4-ohm voice coils (aka DVC) and an amp will be cheaper and probably sound better than what you've got now.
Think of it this way. You've got an old Pentium 3 computer and you are trying to play Doom 2, or NFS Carbon. You can do it with your existing setup - kind of - but you'll have to pay through the nose because you're mixing old and new techonology to get the same result that eMachines sells for half the cost.
Make sense?
In all honesty you may be better off selling your box and speakers as-is for $40 and then putting that towards one 10 or 12" sub with a 4ohm resistance and a decent 2-channel amp. It would probably be much cheaper to go that route, than to try and find a decent, reasonably priced amp that will push enough power to sound good on your 6-ohm setup. Hell even one, newer, 10" sub with two 4-ohm voice coils (aka DVC) and an amp will be cheaper and probably sound better than what you've got now.
Think of it this way. You've got an old Pentium 3 computer and you are trying to play Doom 2, or NFS Carbon. You can do it with your existing setup - kind of - but you'll have to pay through the nose because you're mixing old and new techonology to get the same result that eMachines sells for half the cost.
Make sense?
Re: Sub box dimensions/theory
This thread is turning out to be quite the guide for sound audio advice. Im not sure if you are still deciding what to do or not, but if I was you, I would try and get rid of your current 12 ohm subs and pick up a single 12 or a single very good 10 (JL, RE, Adire, etc). The fact of the matter is, our cars are tiny and dont require much to be "too loud." My single 12 in a sealed box hurts my ears if I turn it up too loud. Nowadays you can pick up a cheap 12" sub, box, and amp for around 200 all together on sale from somewhere, and it would be much less of a headache. Dont get me wrong, you can go ahead with your proposed setup and be able to drive it with almost any amp that has a lower amp rating, but I think youd be very happy with a single 10 or 12 driven with a mopderate amount of power at 2 or 4ohms.
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Re: Sub box dimensions/theory
I have two of these:
Kenwood eXcelon KFC-XW1202DVC
Which have these specs:
Dual 2 ohm Voice Coils
1200w Max Power
Dual 2 ohm Voice Coils
93dB Sensitivity
20Hz-400Hz Freq Response
And they hit damn hard, and can literally shake the windows in the house from my outdoor garage when the door is down, if I crank it. Its obscene. Now I'm running them both off this:
Kenwood KAC-7201
Which has these specs:
Amplifier Type: 2-channel
RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 150W x 2 @ 14.4V
THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: 0.08 %
Bridged RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 460W x 1 @ 14.4V
So, I've got the VCs on each run in series for 4ohm load on each sub. Which tells me I am NOT running an optimal setup for what I have. I am going to get rid of one my 12s, but still run the VCs in series for the 4 ohm load and bridge the amp (that's all my amp can take bridged). With that config, one 12 will probably hit a helluva lot harder than both of them - on my current setup. That's a project for when I get back.
Just for a reference, and also to show that a less than optimal setup can still work.
Kenwood eXcelon KFC-XW1202DVC
Which have these specs:
Dual 2 ohm Voice Coils
1200w Max Power
Dual 2 ohm Voice Coils
93dB Sensitivity
20Hz-400Hz Freq Response
And they hit damn hard, and can literally shake the windows in the house from my outdoor garage when the door is down, if I crank it. Its obscene. Now I'm running them both off this:
Kenwood KAC-7201
Which has these specs:
Amplifier Type: 2-channel
RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 150W x 2 @ 14.4V
THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: 0.08 %
Bridged RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 460W x 1 @ 14.4V
So, I've got the VCs on each run in series for 4ohm load on each sub. Which tells me I am NOT running an optimal setup for what I have. I am going to get rid of one my 12s, but still run the VCs in series for the 4 ohm load and bridge the amp (that's all my amp can take bridged). With that config, one 12 will probably hit a helluva lot harder than both of them - on my current setup. That's a project for when I get back.
Just for a reference, and also to show that a less than optimal setup can still work.
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Re: Sub box dimensions/theory
This thread is turning out to be quite the guide for sound audio advice. Im not sure if you are still deciding what to do or not, but if I was you, I would try and get rid of your current 12 ohm subs and pick up a single 12 or a single very good 10 (JL, RE, Adire, etc). The fact of the matter is, our cars are tiny and dont require much to be "too loud." My single 12 in a sealed box hurts my ears if I turn it up too loud. Nowadays you can pick up a cheap 12" sub, box, and amp for around 200 all together on sale from somewhere, and it would be much less of a headache. Dont get me wrong, you can go ahead with your proposed setup and be able to drive it with almost any amp that has a lower amp rating, but I think youd be very happy with a single 10 or 12 driven with a mopderate amount of power at 2 or 4ohms.
My Pony Princess is the inspiration for my ride.
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Re: Sub box dimensions/theory
Man, I had a little 10" Kicker Comp in my old CRX (87 with the 3 .bbl carb!!), and I loved that sub! I think I was pushing maybe 120-130 watts RMS to it off this old Sherwood 4-channel (other 2 chans were pushing my WalMart 6x9s). What a great sounding sub! I'm sure the 12" you've got is the same way. I'd be running Kickers this time again, but got a great deal on those Kenwoods.
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Registered!!
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Re: Sub box dimensions/theory
Well with all this info, I think I might just sell the ones I got and invest in 1 or 2 new subs. Seeing as how you guys think one will sound alright, I'm starting to think I might just throw one in there... couldn't hurt. I'm off of work today, so I'm checking out circuit city to see if they've got a bitchin' deal like electric got.
I'm actually quite suprised at how well this thread turned out myself. A LOT of good info for all the beginners like myself. Keep the good shi+ coming.
I'm actually quite suprised at how well this thread turned out myself. A LOT of good info for all the beginners like myself. Keep the good shi+ coming.
My Pony Princess is the inspiration for my ride.
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Re: Sub box dimensions/theory
**** or get off the pot man! Although with this much procrastinating, I'll be home before you make a decision, have a box built for one 12" sub and have an extra to sell.
Re: Sub box dimensions/theory
you are looking for something like this?
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...han-150-a.html
The subs are 2 10" clarion subs powered by a 1000w mono block amp. I made the boxes myself, and I posted plans on the second page of the thread. the boxes are 1 ft of cubic space +/- a couple inches. they are covered with felt i got from wal-mart.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...han-150-a.html
The subs are 2 10" clarion subs powered by a 1000w mono block amp. I made the boxes myself, and I posted plans on the second page of the thread. the boxes are 1 ft of cubic space +/- a couple inches. they are covered with felt i got from wal-mart.
Last edited by mneuls; May 10, 2007 at 09:18 PM.
Re: Sub box dimensions/theory
what kind of amp is it and how may watts is it...for the record a amp can say its 1000watts but it could only be like 275 max. i know it doesnt make sence but its true. i have a 1000 watt crossfire amp and im pushing 1500 watts out of it. 4 guage is always good 0 guage is really for alot of power i recommend 4 guage. tell me what kind of system u have and ill tell u exactly what to do. give me the make and model of subs and amp
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