P1106 help 98 ex auto to manual swap
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P1106 help 98 ex auto to manual swap
Hey all! Proud owner of a 98 civic ex auto to manual swap! So I did the swap a couple years ago and left the auto ecu in and it ran just fine. Well about a month ago I had the cel code p1106 baro sensor, come up. I swapped the ecu for the manual one and swapped the intake manifold and tb with skunk2 performance ones, to accept the different iacv for the manual ecu. I rewired the iacv harness, put the parts and manual ecu in and it ran fine for a couple days. Then the p1106 code came back. I got another ecu figuring with my **** luck I just got a bad one. The "new" used ecu threw p1106 instantly. I know the baro sensor is internal in the ecu and if it's bad, replacement is the only option. But is there something external that could be causing it? I'm having a hard time believing that I have 3 ecu's that are bad. Is there something about the performance parts that could be throwing the ecu off? The car is pretty much undrivable as it seems to be in limp mode and won't build over 3500 rpm. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Re: P1106 help 98 ex auto to manual swap
The "new" used ecu threw p1106 instantly.
Without starting the engine it reset the code?
Did you have to drive it to reset the code?
===========
ECM compares BARO sensor to MAP sensor under certain conditions to judge for the code
With engine OFF both of those sensors must read the same (atmospheric pressure)
Before you do anything else:
Check for clogged air inlet, wet or dirty air filter, leaves, papers, plastic bag, trash, mud, or any other possible intake air restriction
Clogged passages for the MAP sensor?
Ice in the map sensor passages?
=====
When you floor the gas pedal for wide open throttle, the intake manifold vacuum drops to about nothing (almost atmospheric pressure) so that's when the ECM checks that both MAP and BARO sensors are within a programmed range (reasonably close to each other) when the throttle is wide open during acceleration.....
so if the intake system is restricted, or if the MAP sensor is out of whack and lies to the ECM, or if the TPS is out of whack and lies to the ECM (throttle isn't really wide open when the tps reading says it should be), these can make the ECM set a false baro code.
That's all I have for the logic in how it might set the baro code even with a good baro sensor
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By instantly I mean during the first start up while letting it warm up, but before taking it for a first drive. When I revved it up to check the rpm range is when the code popped. Which makes sense seeing as how you stated it checks the sensors at WOT.
All the passages are clear in the intake and for the map sensor, and the air filter is brand new. I've also checked the map harness for shorts and proper voltage, and the sensor it's self is brand new.
I'll have to recheck the TPS positioning seeing as I put a new one on with the new throttle body. It could have come loose and started throwing off the ecu, and would also explain why it's only making up to 3500 rpm. The TPS voltage range is 0.5v closed throttle to 4.5v WOT, correct? And thank you, that's the first good lead I've had for a week now!
All the passages are clear in the intake and for the map sensor, and the air filter is brand new. I've also checked the map harness for shorts and proper voltage, and the sensor it's self is brand new.
I'll have to recheck the TPS positioning seeing as I put a new one on with the new throttle body. It could have come loose and started throwing off the ecu, and would also explain why it's only making up to 3500 rpm. The TPS voltage range is 0.5v closed throttle to 4.5v WOT, correct? And thank you, that's the first good lead I've had for a week now!
Last edited by Bigc1669; Mar 1, 2018 at 02:22 AM. Reason: Adding more info
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The TPS voltage range is 0.5v closed throttle to 4.5v WOT, correct?
why it's only making up to 3500 rpm.
I suppose something like that could also cause a code like you have, but I didn't really see a reference to it in my brief bit of research
When I revved it up to check the rpm range is when the code popped. Which makes sense seeing as how you stated it checks the sensors at WOT.
All the passages are clear in the intake
All the passages are clear in the intake
Mice like to store food in air breather tubing and resonance chambers....
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Well ezone, you were correct. The intake was clogged, but it was not something actually stuck in it. The plastic filter adapter had cracked, and was causing the filter to slide all the way down onto the breather tube and block it. It's amazing how something simple can cause all those problems. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with me! I greatly appreciate it!
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Aftermarket CAI and cone filter?
Good to hear you figured it out! Thanks for the update
Good to hear you figured it out! Thanks for the update
Re: P1106 help 98 ex auto to manual swap
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Not sure if that only applies to certain years, or what...and I'm not gonna experiment with it to find out!
Re: P1106 help 98 ex auto to manual swap
I haven't seen that......I've only seen a few 7th gens jump time and shut off at 2 seconds run time once the cam/crank sync is too far out, seems like that's about 2 teeth or more
Not sure if that only applies to certain years, or what...and I'm not gonna experiment with it to find out!
Not sure if that only applies to certain years, or what...and I'm not gonna experiment with it to find out!
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