Rep Power: 262

I've been fighting my p1106 & random misfire codes since the turbo & emanage install. No doubt a common problem with emanage. So I finally got my wideband (thanks dopes!) Dezod suggest I tightened up my injector correction factor to clean things up. Too much variance in map sensor signals (input/output). So I start with 270-310 today & went driving.

My idle is the same 14.7 afr with some flutters to 15.2 or so. My cruise is the same with normal osilating from the gauge. My partial throttle has also been iffy with the emanage sometimes she dumps 10.0 afr's....WOT has also been around 12.2-12.5......I was told to be safe I should be under @ 12.0 or under.
After the inj. correction I'm at 10.2 at first(Just until WOT is reached) then I'm around 11.6-12.0 Perfect.

I went to autozone to go clear my p1106 codes (which I just checked yesterday) the code came back p2006 (intake shutter valve malf.) which is a intake flutter valve on most mazda intake manifolds....so I think they're scan tool is alittle off. I drove for about an hour with no codes. I'm gonna go test drive shortly to see what happens.

You can definitely see a difference in data log runs in comparison to map input & output voltages. Before they use to be about 0.10-0.20V difference. Paul @ dezod recommended no more than 0.07v variance. With the injector correction my max variance was 0.07v....so I'm pretty stoked I nail it on my first try I'll post up later & tell ya how she goes after some more test drives. When I get to work and can drive around with the HDS pluged in will be the real test.

If anyone has any suggestions please do fill in....I hope this works & hope this can help the rest of the emanage new comers There was not alot of help or support to be found out there for emanage, especially on our cars.

P.S. The leaner I got my AFR's the more my butt dyno'd registered. So she did pick up more power leaning out a tad, but I'd rather be safe than sorry!

 
Rep Power: 0

Good stuff man. I still throw a P1106 every couple of days, but since I bought a decent OBD-2 scanner I just clear it when it pops up. I haven't taken the time to figure it out specifically yet, I will once the new head goes on and I put Chris in a headlock to tune it again. I'll tweak the fine stuff once he gets me in the ballpark.

From what I understand 11.5 - 12 is safe, especially on a piggyback that may burp while it's skewing the signals to the stock ECU.

Good stuff even if I don't run e-manage.

 
Rep Power: 811

is p2006 evan a code for our cars?

 
Rep Power: 262

I don't believe so, thats only for mazdas. We get used mazdas at our dealership with that code all the time. It's some sort of intake "flutter" valve in the intake manifolds. Even the guys at mazda couldn't really tell me what it was for. I guess that tells you what a piece of **** that scan tool is. I'll check the code through honda tomorrow at work. The day before it was p1106 & misfire codes, I didn't clear them. I corrected injectors today, drove to autozone & reset code. So I think it is there scan tool. It usually pick ups that p1106 code tho.....

P.S Clint....got the skunk 2 1.3 lb / 19-20 psi radiator cap. I hope it stops my coolant push, mines only doing it on long trips & hot days. Still cannot find any evidence of head gasket failure anywhere

 
Rep Power: 0

Bastard. It's "Off with her head!" when I get from Germany on the 15th. Hopefully that fixes my problem. I'm already running a 1.5 BAR cap and she still pushes.

What plugs are you running though? Might they be causing the misfires?

 
Rep Power: 262

Well, I just got back from a 2 hour drive. I hit in-town speeds, high speeds several times, 100mph+ runs, a couple 1st gear launches....she held up, coolant held steady, oil temps good, and no check engine light! I even shut her off for 10 mins and then drove home. I'm sure all CCM/Moniters have run, they surely would have picked up on the P1106 code by now. The real test in 1st morning start up & the lunch start up. It comes on either 1 block from my house in the morning or 1 block from work at lunch.

Side note, my cruise control afr's are all over the place. I took it off crusie because it was so jerky.....other than that I had a steady 14.7 with the cruise off at highway speeds.

I pushed a small amount of coolant out, which is normal from coolant expansion. Now the catch is if it drains back into the system like it is suppose to do. We'll see when she cools down. More to come tomorrow, time will tell

Clint, I run the plugs dezod supplies in the kit, the denso iridums IK20's I believe...not real uptodate on spark plug lingo
I gap em to 0.032-0.035.....I usually only get my misfire codes when my spark plugs loosen up. Yup, they loosen up. About once a week I tighten them, reset the codes. For about a week or two only the P1106 code will be present. Whenever I see the misfire codes I find the plugs loose. My theory is lack or ignition timing. My tuner left my ignition map empty. So maybe the extra head lift (also causing coolant push?) is causing plugs to loosen up aswell?

 
Rep Power: 811

time for colder plugs?

 
Rep Power: 262

What would be your suggestions? I had some cheap NGK's from oriellys that my tuner suggested. He runs them on his 10 second civic so I figured they had to work. I played with them for awhile but went back to my iridiums. Not sure what the code for the plug was tho.

 
Rep Power: 811

ask some of the turbo guys. i know most people run it one notch colder so they dont foul as fast. and yea they say copper is best for turbo setups. stay away from platinum, it runs way too hot, and iridium the tip might break off.

 
Rep Power: 330

youre describing my car exactly back when i ran the emangle, thats about as normal as you'll ever get it. as long as you dont push coolant out of the reseviour, you should be good. dont know what to tell you about those plugs coming out..ive run iridium IK20's for 2 years boosted, no problems, only changed them once, and i didnt really need to.

but let me school you guys on obd2 codes real quick:

all OBD2 codes have 5 digits, broken down, they mean this:
-the first is always a letter (prefix letter) and it's your first hint as to what the diagnostic code is related to. B - body, C - chassis, P - powertrain, or U - network
-the second indicates the type of code, two people write the codes, the OEM and the feds (SAE - society of automotive engineers, they basically set the standards), a '1' is manufacturer specific, '0' is a global (generic) obd2 code, '2' is like a continuation of SAE/generic obd2, and '3' will be shared between the OEM's and SAE.
-the third digit indicates the problematic system. 0/1 - air/fuel metering, 2 - fuel injectors and their related circuits, 3 - ignition and misfire systems, 4 - auxilary emissions controls, 5 - vehicle speed and idle control, 6 - ECU output circuits, and 7/8 - transmission
-the last 2 digits will tell you the specific trouble the monitor has detected within the problem system.

p2006 indicates an "intake manifold runner control stuck closed" so the code definition they gave you is correct, but that code hadnt been written when the 7thgen came out, it's a new code, so they were probably showing you the code they had pulled off of the car they read codes off before you.

 
Rep Power: 262

Skip, yes I tried to read the code several times & it kept giving the P2006 code like it was stored in mine.
No more OBDII lessons, those codes are engraved into my mind thanks to wyotech

Anyway......Check engine light did come on about 2 miles from my house.
I got to work this morning & got P0172 - Too rich (bank 1)
No misfire or map codes!!!!

I did feel a little bit of boggy-ness until she warmed up...I can also detect the extra present of gas when she runs. Even though my afr's are solid now, It is way too much fuel. When I boroscoped my cylinder before the inj. correction they were already soaked in fuel. I can't wait to see what it looks like today.

Any suggestions anyone?

 
Rep Power: 279

THREAD JACK: I'm still on the same crap-tuned E-Manage from my thread 6 months ago. I lost my cable so I can't change anything... but haven't pushed any coolant yet... I don't even want to know what my AFR is with the 32º air I'm in right now. I haven't seen more than 1 psi of boost since Sept. so as not to hurt anything. I shift at 2000RPM unless I'm in a hurry I shift at 2500RPM and never enought throttle to send the boost gauge over 0. It blows off a tiny bit, but that's either normal air from the throttle snapping shut or my broken valve on the Type S BOV. I am trying to save up to replace the E-Manage with either the AEM or PCS.

 
Rep Power: 262

well, not too impressed with lunch. No check engine light.
However, I went out & jumped in. Idle cold was 1200-1500rpm (30 degrees here) the afr's were at 10.2 !!!! Even off decel when idle was still @ 1500rpm. That went away when she warmed up however. Now my idle is going back & forth between 13.9-16.1!! ****, I knew my luck was coming to an end!

Definitely running too rich at times. I think I'll continue to have rich codes until I figure out what to adjust.

 
Rep Power: 0

I'd adjust that emangle right out the ****ing window at this point.

 
Rep Power: 811

isnt it supposed to run really rich on a cold start to warm the cat up faster?

^agreed throw it away and get aem ems!

 
Rep Power: 262

Yeah, I know I need a stand alone but I'm broke. It's christmas and my car has already sucked me dry. Maybe next year!

Gearbox, before I adjusted injector correction factor my afr's had never done that. Car will dump more fuel, right from key on position. However I had never observed that, maybe just my unattentive eye. Idle stayed smooth though / no roughness or cutting out

I'm sure that extra fuel is what caused my too rich code

 
Rep Power: 327

Mine cold starts @ 14.7 ish and bounces a little around there but not much at all. I dont understand why so many people have so many problems with e-manage. May i suggest you post your maps so we can look at them ?

 
Rep Power: 281

Read this as a GUIDELINE for emanage tuning. It helped me when I had it on my setup. Remember this is a guideline only.

http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/ins...ocs_DSM_1G.pdf

 
Rep Power: 279

Dood... I think the E-Manage is a perfect tool for people who want just a slight bit more than A'PEXi AFC or whatever. If anyone wants to turbo an OBDII car, there are better piggybacks and obviously standalones. I think the T.E.A.R.S. thread has enough proof that no new people should make this mistake.

And Tfnaaf... you are a freak of nature. LOL... You are the only person who has a consistently working E-Manage. Is there anyone else who is problem free that runs one? You seriously might have unlocked the key to the universe when you got your car to run right... have you tried healing people?

Anyway... FoSho... good luck brother.

 
Rep Power: 262

Actually the funny thing is I used tnaf's posted emanage maps.....my tuner through a fit when I gave him the emanage with nothing. He has never done one. I found tnaf's maps & used those as my base

I'll post my maps up at lunch, hopefully you can make some sense of them

 
Rep Power: 327

I also have the button to solve world hungry,......... I just haven't pushed it yet

Honestly now, i dont think i've had a single CEL this year that i can recall. And I run constant 12.0 AFR under WOT. Early last year i had an occasional hicup coming down from highway cruise speeds. where my AFR would go WAY lean. And was solved a 5% adjustment at 2500rpm, and 3000rpm at the lower 2 or 3 blocks in TPS signal. Im in my 3rd year od boost and still the only problem to date is a BLOWN auto trans that got warrantied Could i do some more work on my own maps to even tune it better, sure. But if i actually got paid for the total hours i spent with test drives with my laptop on my passenger seat and pulling over to make adjustments........I could retire tomorrow!

 
Rep Power: 279

I wish I could take a crack at my E-Manage... but I lost the cable.

 
Rep Power: 262

ok, here's my emanage maps....on 7 psi......tnaff's base map used for tuning. I am using 270-310 injector correction.

 
Rep Power: 281

I ALREADY SEE A PROBLEM. You have no ignition timing. Plus you should only be minimally using the airflow map to pull fuel. Use the injector map to add fuel.

 
Rep Power: 262

Well, I'm just getting my feet wet. I would imagine it would be very difficult to tune ignition...where would I begin?

 
Rep Power: 327

Here is where im currently at on my maps.

pay close attention to the lower RPMs (highlighted areas)on the air flow map its based off of throttle position. And @ low RPM with low TPS voltage(throttle position) you will normally have VERY low load and not need any additional fuel. This could be a starting place to play with. And possibly why you go to 10's on AFR when you first nail it? And notice on the boost reference map that i dont really start adding ANY fuel until im @ 0vac/0psi and around 2000-2500rpm and above.

 
Rep Power: 327

I added my ignition map as a reference

 
Rep Power: 327

ohh and im using 240-310 correction also

 
Rep Power: 262

Wow, thanks alot! How do you work around tuning that ignition map? Should I just start with what you got & see how she runs huh?

I think I'll change my inj. correction to what you use, fill in my ignition map out, & test drive. See if she blows up. I know it's gonna be alot of trial & error.

As regards to the air/flow at low end.........I suppose I'll just need to trial & error that aswell.

I do appreicate all the help, there is just not alot of info out there or people for that matter who know alot. My tuner doesn't even wanna mess with it again until I get hondata, so I suppose I'm the tuner now

So, I'm getting my base in emanage......so airflow is only for subtracting and injector control is only for adding correct?

 
Rep Power: 327

i would focus on the 3,000 rpm and down tune. as thats where most of your driveability is going to be found. and is the hardest to tune for. Ideally you want to use a scanner to watch your short term/long term fuel trim.

think of it this way say you go for a drive and the second you hit cruise speed you notice that your to lean. So you add fuel and if you added to much the computer will compensate for it. BUT when you come down off that cruise speed its still taking fuel away. SOOOOO you just came down from a cruise speed and at a stop light and all the sudden your car is about to die because your bouncing around 16-18:1 AFR. What this tells you is that you added too much fuel at cruise speed and the computer compensated and adjusted the long term fuel trim taking out fuel. Then when you came back down to a stop the computer is STILL pulling fuel out until it re-figures 14.7:1 ratio. So with out a scanner you cant watch these trims. and the guessing game comes to play. This is why e-manage has got such a bad rap. It's because most people dont take the time to tune it properly.