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Mechanical Problems/Vehicle Issues and Fix-it ForumIf you've got a problem you just can't figure out, a noise you can't diagnose, or a Check Engine Light that won't go away, ask about it here!
I have a 2000 Civic EX - D16y8 - 240,000 miles.
It has always leaked a little oil. recently it got much worse, like all over the ground worse. I replaced the distributor seals as well as the oil pressure sender and oil filter. As the oil leak is all over the back of the block i assumed it was the common oil sender leak. Unfortunately next morning, oil all over the ground. I ordered a reman head and all gaskets. Not yet installed. I know it is not common but i believe it is leaking from the head gasket. Is this possible?
What doesn't make much sense to me is the significant exhaust smoke. The longer it sits the worse the smoking. overnight will be worse than a few hours. Smoke is white but does not smell like coolant, and plug condition suggests (to me anyway) that its not a coolant burn.
I did an ice cold compression test - 150 high - 140 low. I know this is low, but its a cheap compression tester on a cold engine. I was more checking for variation rather than actual high number.
Im hoping that I've covered all my bases with the reman head and gaskets. Does it sound like I'm going in the right direction? Anything else i should look at/replace while i have it apart?
i guess there could maybe be a crack in the block, but no visible evidence and engine has never even been close to too hot.
It needs rings for the smoke. Oil rings should be stuck in their grooves.
Possibly valve stem seals since the head will be off....or since you already bought another head you can bolt it on and pray it was done right.
Find the true source of the oil leak first. It won't be the head gasket.
You've got VTEC, the leak may be the gaskets for the solenoid. If so, we have the part number for the top gasket the dealer can't sell you.
yeah I'm assuming/hoping the head refurb was done correctly. It has a warranty so i guess all i will waste is my time if not. The Vtec gaskets are going to be on the head yes? So as long as i replace gaskets with the head install i should be good? I was going to replace things 1 by 1 until the leak stops, but I'm thinking at 240k a new head is the better choice.
Any chance the smoke is from oil getting past the valve seals and pooling in the cylinder? I forgot to mention it will run like complete **** for the first 10 - 20 seconds or so while it smokes like crazy, and then clear up and run fine. Im imagining a slow oil drip going into a cylinder overnight and thats what is getting burned up, but maybe i am over thinking it.
Only one of them (usually called the 'filter assembly-spool vlave'). The other gasket is the one most dealer people can't find--- but it's easily available from the dealership if one knows where to look or knows the part number needed.
We have posted the part number several times in this forum
I was going to replace things 1 by 1 until the leak stops,
Why not just find the source of the leak? LOL
Any chance the smoke is from oil getting past the valve seals and pooling in the cylinder?
With that kind of mileage, sure, but that won't normally make copious amounts of smoke.
The big smoke problem should be stuck oil rings.
That's why I wrote what I did.
Make the next smoke video in the daytime.
Night video doesn't do it justice, especially if it will fog an entire city block out.
Well, on a hunch i pulled the oil filter off assuming it may be double gasketed. It wasn't but the gasket was partially pulled out of the groove and obviously wasn't oiled when it was installed. So much for the professional Oil change i paid money for. I can't say for sure yet, but it looks like the oil leak was coming from there and has stopped.
On to the more concerning. Still smoking like crazy. To my eye, the coolant is getting darker, indicating oil in the coolant. Im going to take a sample and let it settle to make sure.
There is also a strange idle surge. When i start it cold it will idle very high (2500 or so). once the needle gets on the gauge it will immediately start bouncing between 800-2000 like a clock. No CELS. Sprayed carb cleaner around, did not find any vacuum leaks.
Cleaned IACV not long ago, but not ruling it out either, i did tap on it quite a bit with no change. TPS appears to be fine.
Not sure what else it could really be at this point, unless its head gasket related. It is certainly temperature related as far as the surge/bounce goes.
not ignoring the oil rings suggestion. Very likely bad/stuck at this point. That bounce is just super wierd.
Oil will float on top of coolant.. The rubber gasket on the radiator cap would get all swollen and mushy and deformed if it were soaked in oil.
800-2000
Search for 'idle surge' or some such.
Low coolant level, poor coolant flow through the IAC valve (on thermal units) and sticking IAC are leading suspects. Get it surging, remove whatever is in the way of the throttle body, then use your fingers to block the open port(s) inside the throat and see if the idle speed comes down to normal or below.
Blocking the small hole in the upper left of the TB does indeed drop the idle down. Oddly, it will stay low, even when i unblock it, until i restart the car. then it will bounce again. This is reproducible.
IACV is original to car. It has been cleaned a few months ago. It was certainly filthy. The lines and IACV itself gets warm, so i suspect some amount of coolant is getting into it.
Coolant level seems normal, not getting any bubbling anywhere.
I did an overnight Seafoam soak in an attempt clean up rings. Not sure if it made any difference. Smoked like crazy, but of course.
There is no doubt significant moisture in the exhaust, it will coat my hand. No discernible smell/taste though.
Still waiting on parts to get here, so I'm going to take the IACV off and check it out. anything in particular i should look for? If i understand correctly. i can open and close it with 12V.
Blocking the small hole in the upper left of the TB does indeed drop the idle down.
That passage leads to where? The IAC valve?
Oddly, it will stay low, even when i unblock it, until i restart the car. then it will bounce again. This is reproducible.
IACV is original to car. It has been cleaned a few months ago. It was certainly filthy.
Got codes? (I didn't read the rest of the thread)
The lines and IACV itself gets warm, so i suspect some amount of coolant is getting into it.
I've seen a few cases where a coolant flow restriction in those small hoses and tubes made the iac valve warmup much slower than the rest of the engine. IDK if that has anything to do with the issue, but js.
There is no doubt significant moisture in the exhaust, it will coat my hand. No discernible smell/taste though.
Chemistry 101: Water is a byproduct of combustion.
Hydrocarbon (gasoline or any fuel) + fire = CO2 + H2O
Still waiting on parts to get here, so I'm going to take the IACV off and check it out. anything in particular i should look for? If i understand correctly. i can open and close it with 12V.
Follow a real service manual for troubleshooting?
00 Civic EX,
Sedan, or coupe?
Auto trans, or manual trans? IACs are very different-- depending on which transmission, troubleshooting is different for each
I do have the service manual, all signs are pointing to stuck open IACV and fuel pulses are causing the idle bounce.
No codes.
Only one passage in this TB. Im assuming it goes to the IACV screen. Cant imagine where else it would possibly go.
Honestly, i don't understand the significance of the coolant lines to the IACV. Unless it is merely for cold weather/stop valve freeze. In which case i am skeptical it could affect valve open/close.
The manual seems to suggest an ECU signal to open or close, rather than a thermo valve of any sort? For what its worth, temps are no where no low enough for a water freeze.
I stuck a carb cleaner straw into that port and blasted it. Chokes out the engine quickly. So i suppose if the valve failed, it failed open rather than closed.
IAC might be sticking open--why? Is the cause mechanical, or electrical?
and fuel pulses are causing the idle bounce.
Incorrect.
The surge is part of "decel fuel cut" (look it up) and it's designed to do what it's doing......but
The phenomenon is the result of rpm too high while the throttle is closed.
Usual cause is vacuum leaks, either internal or external--IAC sticking open for some reason would be considered an internal vacuum leak
and the IAC/FITV designs that rely on hot antifreeze flow could stay open too far if they stayed too cool, causing the same effect
Honestly, i don't understand the significance of the coolant lines to the IACV. Unless it is merely for cold weather/stop valve freeze. In which case i am skeptical it could affect valve open/close.
Yes to avoid freeze up.
That design probably doesn't have it, but many IAC versions incorporate the thermal fast idle mechanism that relies on good coolant flow to keep high idle speed in line with actual coolant temperature.
The manual seems to suggest an ECU signal to open or close, rather than a thermo valve of any sort?
Yes it's electric.
For what its worth, temps are no where no low enough for a water freeze.
"Venturi Effect" and "Vortex Effect" can cause freezing at room temperature especially in high humidity
For that matter, I can make water boil at room temperature.
So i suppose if the valve failed, it failed open rather than closed.
You stuck your finger over it and got the engine to slow down. That alone tells me the valve was open more than it should be
Spent a few hours on New years eve doing the head replacement and replacing every gasket in sight. no more leak, no more smoke.
Turns out the head i received was a Y5 (HX) rather than a Y8. Did not realize it when received, and at install time the group decision was "it looks like it should work".
Seems to run totally fine.
I am sure the maps are different from y5 and y8, so surely something if off somewhere.
Thus far not able to find a bin/basemap for a MT Y5. If you happen to be able to point me in the right direction that would be great. Of course it might be irrelevant considering the fuel injector size difference.
12-18-2017
