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A honda civic '96 , the car got hot and blow the head gasket and now the oil is mixing with coolant (milkshake) , is better change the motor ?

 
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might be cheaper. the bottom is probably still good.. id resurface and replace head gasket if it was me.

 
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That was already done with that engine, so in this case is it better to buy a low milage JDM engine instead?

 
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i mean if you can afford one then why not... if they dont need core exchange you can build the old one .

 
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thanks,
I did my research and i found that get the head block fix along with the parts or buy a low mileage JDM , The cost is almost about the same, so I think is better buy a JDM instead, I asked some people and they says that those JDM motor are very good , almost like new.

 
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from what i hear they are very solid. along with inexpensive.

 
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During an overheat did you ever drive the car until engine stopped on it's own? If so, the motor is most likely shot and not worth replacing the head gasket. Did you compression test current engine?

Find a junked car with a running engine you can test is one option. JDM engine sellers tout low mileage engines but actual mileage is debatable. If you do go the JDM route it's best to install a timing belt kit and thermostat before engine install.

 
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if you get a new engine, change the gasket and timing belt while it's off the car - it's easier

I moved thread to correct section, it's not "other Maintenance", it's a "mechanical problem"

 
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It's in the 7th gen section still?

 
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instead of making a new thread i will just post on this.

97 civic ex d16y8 vtec auto sedan
replaced all gaskets and still going through oil and losing coolant too. white smoke out of tail pipe only at high rpm(mainly during vtec kicks in) but have black sut around tailpipe. checked coolant and see black in coolant resv. now im thinking that i got a bad head gasket but im getting really good compression numbers avg around 210. leak down test next maybe or just replace head gasket?

 
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Sounds like it needs a head gasket and possibly valve seals. Doing leakdown yourself? Block Test is cheap $10 for test fluid and block tester is a free rental from parts stores. It's not definitive for all types of head gasket breaching. If emmsions are entering coolant test fluid turns from blue to yellow or green.

 
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yea i just got a quote from my shop for a head gasket job plus timing belt and its $900! yea im going to have to do this myself parts them self cost $160

 
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Bring the head to a machine shop to inspect for level (flatness), valve leaks, cracks. Most likely will need to be milled flat and while the head is off it a good time to install new valve stem seals and get the head hot tanked (cleaned).

 
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sorry, saw later it's a 6th gen :P

 
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if you never changed a head gasket before, take your time... watch tons of tutorials and dont take shortcuts.

 
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well i just got the head off and sent it off to a shop for it to be worked on, only thing they are doing is going to test for cracks and cleaning it up. now is there any recommended cleaners and brushes for the cylinder heads?

 
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Razor blade and brake cleaner only.
Do not use abrasives: Scotchbrite, sandpaper, steel wool, etc...as they can breakdown to particles that can get inside the engine via cylinders and damage internals.

Hold the razorbade as vertical as possible and try not to scratch or dig into the top of the cylinder head mating surface. Go slow and let the brake cleaner sit on the surface for a bit to work it's magic.

 
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check if they are going to verify if the head is straight

 
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well almost got all the pistons cleaned up and i was wondering could i just get rid of the pcv and canister system since i don't have emission laws here? or would the motor run like crap.

 
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PCV just recirculates oil vapors: http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/197 As long as you ensure the PCV isn't clogged it's better to recirculate those fumes than catch-can them and engine constantly smell like oil.

As far as removing the charcoal canister, if you want to smell gas fumes at every stoplight, drive-through, toll booth, etc.. then disconnect it. Otherwise, keep it intact.

 
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Why would anyone want to get rid of emissions devices? Oh wait, same reason so many people want to rip the fuel injection off and bolt a carb on.

Some pollution controls are on there for a damn good reason. (Actually all emissions controls are there for good reasons, even if people don't understand them.)


PCV is probably one of the most basic systems and has been an EPA requirement since the early 60s (1964?) It is damn important: for positively removing blow-by vapors (fuel) from the crankcase, condensation and acid control, oil life, and engine longevity...... and the valve itself is a calibrated orifice. DO NOT remove or disable PCV system.

 
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another question would be since i have the side of the motor torn down would it be wise to replace the crankshaft position sensor? and any other things i might want to look at since the head and intake are off?

 
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The CKP is inside the distributor.


The sensor hanging at the front of the crankshaft is the CKF sensor (it's there to satisfy one of those pesky EPA requirements, and it's a damn good one) ...... I personally would not bother it unless or until it's a problem. It is used for detecting misfires, not running the engine.

 
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well i just got done with replacing the head gasket and button everything up. running good only problem is that its vibrating a lot more. it does not sound like a misfire i replaced one of the motor mount on the bottom driver side next to the wheel. any ideas?

 
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Recheck everything you touched:
Cam timing off by a tooth or more, ignition timing off (cam timing has to be perfect before trying to adjust ignition timing), forgot to tighten something like the bottom bolt of the alternator or a motor mount, loose cam pulley bolt, valve lash adjustment, etc.

 
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well the car is going in the shop next week to get the viberation looked at but now im starting to see oil in the coolant again so now im thinking maybe its the radiator this time i don't know im lost. i don't see any coolant on the dip stick i have no white smoke out the tail pipe.

 
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The radiator can't leak engine oil.

Leftover oil in the cooling system can float its way to the radiator and reservoir, if you didn't get it all cleaned out from the last disaster. I bet this is what you are seeing.