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could should after refilling radiator Alternator belt on
Lay valve cover on head and bump the engine to check the timing belt tension?
If I press or pull up on the tensioner bar, should it move or not move?

 
Rep Power: 518

Engrish please?

What does your service manual say about tensioning the timing belt?

Hell no don't bump the starter. Spin crankshaft using a wrench.

 
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ok thanks
getting nervous about this think.
Thanks for all your help ezone.

 
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Got it all back together.
Car started and run a few seconds and cut off. Now will not start.
Sounds like the starter is ok. It just will not start.

 
Rep Power: 222

so cranks but no start?
timing correct?
got spark? got fuel?
leave something disconnected by mistake?

 
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Cannot think of anything not connected.
Timing mark on lower cover lined up with timing mark on pulley before starting.

Dog gone spark tester connection is to short to connect the plug wire on plug end.
Resistance on wires is OK even though they are old.

 
Rep Power: 222

are the plugs wet after cranking?
do you know how to check spark?

 
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Edited my previous message before reading your text.
Dog gone spark tester connection is to short to connect the plug wire on plug end.

Pulled one plug. Dry as a bone.

 
Rep Power: 222

if they're the oem wires they very rarely go bad. just pull a plug, connect it to the wire and put the plug near the engine block (almost touching) and have some one crank while you watch for spark

 
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Tune Up Kit Honda Civic CX DX LX 1996 to 2000 1.6L
$103.36
Tune Up Kit Honda Civic CX DX LX 1996 to 2000 1.6L from 1
Sold by: Timing Belt Kit

Considering this kit from Amazon. Should I just get new plugs? And fuel filter rather than investing in a whole kit?

Just parked the thing. Started working on it a week later.
Was running fine before that.

 
Rep Power: 308

Don't buy anything until you know what it needs.

Do you hear the fuel pump buzzing when key 1st goes to II position.

 
Rep Power: 518

Seconded.

 
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Fiancée now, cranked the car
could see spark when cranked.

She said fuel filter has never been replaced. Says plugs have never been replaced that she knows of. They do not need to be replaced.

Do not know if my hearing is good enough to hear fuel pump. Will check.

 
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No. Cannot hear fuel pump.

 
Rep Power: 518

Main relay...pull it out and resolder everything on the board?

 
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Checked all four plugs for spark. Got spark.
Had friend listen for fuel pump start. No sound at fuel neck. Can hear main fuel relay click.

Check for voltage from connector of main fuel pump relay. Get 12 V when volt/ohm connected. Voltage drops after turning key to ON or position II.
Guess I have a short.

Then there may be an issue with the oil pressure sensor.

And the dang relay is mounted with a spot welded nut. Guess have to find a socket to fit and break spot weld???


So to get to these last posts have to go to old email alerting me someone has posted to thread and click on the link.

 
Rep Power: 518

No it's not.
Hondas engineers weren't stupid.
It's bolted with a very normal bolt.


How so? It is not related to a main relay/no start issue.


You can find your posting history in your user profile under 'statistics', or click on your user handle and find 'find all posts' in the drop down menu

 
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Hoping two pictures of main fuel pump relay attached.

So the right end of instrument panel cover has to be removed. It has some spring tabs that must be depressed.
Have to take out the duct and vent to get to one of them.

 
Rep Power: 518

Duct/vent does not come out.
Trim will pry out after screws are removed.

 
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Do you already have your new main relay?
ETCG shows you can just pull the guts out and leave the housing in place if that makes things easier.

Hmm... embedded video link didn't work quite right... skip to 1:40 where he pulls out the circuit board from the housing

 
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Is there a quick and dirty way to see if the timing belt jumped a notch in the back yard?
Hate the thought of taking everything apart again, especially without being sure.

On the other hand, if that had happened would the engine still turn over.
Believe this engine is not the non-interference type.

 
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Went back out to car the next night. After all the struggle and wondering the night before, the end panel cover pulled right off with a tug.

Took main relay to a tech at work. He checked it said it was ok. Re-soldered the joints anyway.

To night checked for 12 volts from fuses. OK.
Tried to crank. First two tries it sounded as if was about to start. Third time just turning over like before.

The saga continues.

 
Rep Power: 518

Timing light? IDK, I find the upper cover pretty dang easy to remove.

The entire board, all 37 solder spots (or whatever are there) or only a few around the edges?
We can't hear it. Video?


Pull a spark plug out. Is it soaking wet, or is it dry as a bone?

If soaked with gas, it's flooded. Dry out and do deflood procedures (hold gas pedal to the floor while cranking)

If it's dry as a bone, spritz a whiff of carb/throttle spray into the throttle body and see if it tries to fire.

 
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All 24 joints on the main relay were re-soldered.
"Third time just turning over like before." As in cranking but not starting.
Spark plug bone dry after cranking.
Sprayed starter fluid in throttle body. Cranked like could start. Or almost start.

On to the fuel pump itself.

Take off gas cap and hear a spew like sound. Never heard that before when removing gas fill cap. Cap not venting properly???

When car was parked had 3/4 tank of gas, now only 1/2 full???

Vapor lock uncommon with fuel injection. So could have vapor lock occurred with car jacked up, parked in the 90° plus sun???

 
Rep Power: 518

Since nobody ever has a fuel pressure gauge connected at the moment it's needed most,
I'd take a 17mm(? whatever) wrench immediately after crank/no start and pop a fuel line fitting loose and see if it sprays (this would tell you if the pump did run and build up pressure).

If no, continue checking pump operations.
If yes, pump did run, move to something else.

Got a scanner with live data? I kinda wonder if the temp sensor is accurate. If it flakes out and tells the engine it's 230F instead of 85F, it's gonna be really really lean. KnowwhatImean? I'm used to replacing the sensor for mysterious flooding during hot restart, so IMO it's not a stretch to think it might also do wrong things at lower temps too.

Probably normal. The cap is not in control of normal venting anyway.

Tank is more or less sealed until the engine is running and EVAP system begins it's purge routines. Plus the heat makes fuel vaporize so there's gonna be some pressure built up in a sealed gas tank.
Google 'gasoline RVP'

 
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Gas came out from fitting atop the fuel filter but did not spray. Just run down the side onto rag. On to the air intake temperature sensor.

Or haul the !@#$%^&* to the junk yard.

 
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I don't want to hijack the thread but I believe ezone is referring to Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, not air intake sensor. (based on those temperatures).

Looks fairly straightforward to replace if need be. Look near one of the lower distributor mounting bolts, toward front of engine near upper rad hose.

Like ezone said, if the sensor is reporting high temperature even when the coolant is cold, the computer will adjust fuel injection to be lean, when it needs to be rich (to get started).

 
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Well air intake sensor is ok per the hair dryer test.
Scanner indicates ETC is 22° C or 71° F. Car is presently in the shade. Weather app shows temp to be 79° F. So that may be the correct temp of coolant???

When trying to crank the Live Data screen goes blank. Maybe I am not doing something correctly with the scanner.

Still wonder about spark plugs, even though they are dry after cranking, they really do need to be replaced even though each one does fire. The electrode tip is rounded off instead of flat.

 
Rep Power: 518

NO FUEL PRESSURE = DRY PLUGS

SO fuel pump did not run? Remove fitting completely and have someone cycle the key to see if the pump really does not run.

This may be the main problem to be figuring out.
If fuel pump does not operate at all (especially during cranking) then you can chase electrical: Is there 12v+ and ground at the top of the tank for the fuel pump to run on when the main relay tries to turn it on?
Does the ECM actually turn on the main relay when it should?

If you can use a test light/voltmeter/wiring diagram that would go a long way toward diag.

Ground wires at the thermostat housing, are they in good shape/clean/tight?


All you had to do is look at the IAT temperature in the data list and judge if it is reasonable, just like the ECT value. And yes I meant ECT sensor in the other post.
ECT and plugs are probably OK enough to run.

 
Rep Power: 0

OK Hear relay click. Fuel pump runs a few seconds then stops.
Get 4.?? VDC at the connector to fuel pump.

Main relay has two relays. One is 12 V and the other is 4 V.
Guessing the 12 V relay is for the fuel pump.

What about the fuel regulator? Can a vacuum check be made with vacuum pump even though engine does not run?

Do not know about ground wires at thermostat. Can only see a collection of wires near by under distributor cap. There is one wire to head next to ETC sensor. There is a connector it the same area.