Hi all. I have a 2000 DX that I got for my son. With no idea of when it was last serviced I replaced the TB, WP and adjuster. The problem is, it won't run. No pop, no sputter, nothing. I've replaced timing belts on other vehicles without a problem. I have to be missing something. What I've checked so far; good compression, good spark. Dist rotor in right position with #1 at TDC. Have checked and re-checked the belt timing. (Just realized I have not checked for codes yet. DUH!) Will check those on Saturday. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks

Did you time the cam/crank pulleys correctly?
Compression test?

Did you remove or adjust the crank position sensor and forget to put it back to spec?

Thanks for the replies. Compression on ll cylinders is around 160. I have checked the timing belt several times. I did have the CPS off and am pretty sure it is right. If it wasn't I would think I would get a pop or backfire or something. If you were to take the plug wires off the engine and crank it that would be what this engine sounds like. Am I missing something? Thanks

Assuming you followed the FSM did you:

1) Set 1st cylinder to TDC
2) Match crank timing mark (notch) to pointer on block:



3) Align cam marks (notches) to top of cylinder head (better seen and easier to align from backside of cams):

Only 2 cylinders? What about the other 2?
160 is low to me. I expect to see 180 or higher using my testers and my methods.

Are the plugs wet with fuel?

Will the spark jump a half inch gap?

Oops! Should have been an A in front of the 'll. All cylinders are around 160, has a little over 200,000miles. Even if its a little on the low side it would still run. Have r echecked the belt timing. It lines up. Checked spark with spark gap tool. Shows strong spark over 12mm gap. Plugs are not wet but I would think they should show some indication of fuel.

Main relay pooped out on you? (common issue)
Can you hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you cycle the key on?

Grab a spray can of something flammable, like carb and throttle cleaner. Give a quick squirt into the throttle body and crank the engine, see if it fires on that. If it does, that confirms "lack of fuel" getting into the cylinders.

Well, I took it completely back to the timing belt. Rechecked belt timing, rotated it about 8 times and the marks were correct. I put the front pully on without attahing any acc or covers. Started up and ran. Thought I had it. Put the timing covers back on and attached the accessories. Cranked it and -nothing. Rechecked for spark, fuel etc. Have fuel to the rail with pressure. Good strong spark. Tried starting fluid, nothing, not a thing. Is it possible the CPS is bad? Putting the cover on is causing a problem? Broken wire? Is there a way to check the CPS? I am at a loss! Thanks

Also, I forgot to mention, there are no codes.

Got codes?

The CKP (crankshaft position sensor) is inside the distributor.

The sensor on the front of the crank is the CKF (crankshaft fluctuation sensor) and is used for misfire detection. The engine should run without it.


I don't know what would have changed.

Well, either the car is cursed or I am. I got it running (the technical term for the problem was Dumassery) but I am embarresed to say what I did. Note to self, double check your work. It started fine. I timed it with the jumper installed. The dist adjustment ended up in the middle of the slot. Started fine, tried to drive it, went about 300 feet, got a misfire code. Managed to get it back to the garage. Let it cool down a few hours. Tried to pulled the code again but it had disappeared. Will try it again tomorrow.

SOLVED. After checking everything again the only thing left were the new ignition parts; plugs, wires, rotor cap and rotor. I started putting on the old parts. The new 8mm plug wires were the problem. Put the old Honda wires back, Bingo, works great now! I guess the lesson is to never assume that new parts can't be a problem.
Thanks!

Good to hear.

6th gen (and probably most) Civics are particular about parts and definitely do better with OEM: Prestolite or NGK. I've owned two 6th gen Civics that was/is 15+ years old and had/have the original Pretolites that spark like new.
Autozone or other non-OEM wires basically suck and either won't work or won't last.

I used to see certain Mazdas that would set certain fault codes....and I could take the distributor apart to find (cheap) tune up parts "made in Italy" every time.