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1997 Civic EX stock, A/T, 163k miles.

As of three days ago speedometer not working, automatic transmission shifting a bit differently than normal, slightly higher and rougher idle. CEL P0501 associated with speed sensor. Disconnected harness from speed sensor = no change.

I plan to pull one from a salvage yard and I'm wondering if it has to be pulled from an EX or can it be pulled from any 6th gen model?

Does this diagnostic procedure apply to 6th gens too: http://techauto.awardspace.com/vss.html

 
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Whooo I see 2 different brands of VSS sensors, one is Matsushita the other is Denso...and I can't tell exactly what the differences are nor if they can be interchanged.

 
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Thanks Ezone. I'll pull the current one and bring it to the junk yard to match it up and hopefully, there will be some EX models to choose from. Ebay sells them for about $15 and the probably last for about 15 days. OEM is around $100

 
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Those are the two that come up as OEM during my searches as well.
Hondaparts now has a search by VIN feature which shows Denso: http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine...a4ra,2143221,8

This site has it for less total (including shipping): http://hondapartsnetwork.com/part/48...Assembly-Denso

Couldn't find one in local salvage yards. Also, I haven't even checked fuse #15 .. I guess I should do that first. The VSS harness connector is clean and in good shape and I'll apply a bit of diaelctric grease when I install the new part.

 
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DO NOT DO THIS


Dielectric grease is an insulator, it is used for waterproofing.
It is NOT for improving electrical contact.

 
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Okay I won't. In most cases would you say it's simply a matter of VSS replacement or is could it get more complicated?

There's always this possibilty: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/civic/x99-029e.pdf

 
Rep Power: 518

Look up 'stabilant 22' if you want something that will promote better contact between terminals. It's not cheap though.


Didn't you do the voltage checks at the VSS connector before condemning the sensor?

When you get another sensor, I'd plug it into the wire harness then give it a spin by hand to make sure it's gonna work the speedometer before installing. Have someone else watch the gauges if necessary to check this.

If the fuse were blown, you should have had most of the other codes along with the alternator not charging.

Not saying the TSB wiring problem isn't a possibility maybe it affected different wires other than the one that blows that #15 fuse....but if the voltage checks mentioned above turn out to be correct as specified, this TSB should not be the cause of the current VSS code.

 
Rep Power: 210

https://www.amazon.com/Stabilant-22-.../dp/B001E53PG6 Ouch!

I haven't.

My free time has been spent working on a 2004 BMW 325i I purchased for my daughter recently, as well as getting my son's Mazda 3 ready for a 2.3L (current engine) to a Ford 2.5L modified engine swap.
Poor old Civic's been the workhorse for the past two months and also the most neglected, I plan to take care of the Civic's VSS issue as soon as possible and within a month after that redo the oil pan gasket, install an o2 sensor and solve a/c bi-level and floor vent issue that I posted about a while ago.

Okay

No apparent issues with charging. I may get a chance to test it tomorrow.
Thanks.

 
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Just curious. What is the difference between stabilant 22 and Silver conductive grease like CW7100 ?

 
Rep Power: 518

Without knowing anything about CW7100 other than a cursory google search...

Stabilant 22 and 22a is a contact enhancer.

It is only electrically conductive in very close range and it can bridge an electrical gap when in very close range, while remaining an insulator to those not in close range (making it ideal for combating terminal fretting, microcorrosion in critical low voltage circuits contacts, this is my main use for it at work)

when 'painted' across multiple electrical terminals Stabilant 22/22a will not bridge or conduct across contacts,
it would seem that the CW7100 would bridge across multiple contacts if one applies it carelessly.


From an article:
One point is of critical importance: Stabilant 22 is not “just another contact cleaner.” It is an initially non-conductive long-chain organic block polymer that switches to a conductive state only when used in a thin film within the interstices of a contact pair. It remains non-conductive on the insulating surface between adjacent contacts. Thus, by remaining resident within the contacts, it improves connector reliability within a contact set without causing signal leakage problems between adjacent contacts.



Its advantage lies not in making new contacts better, but in keeping contacts operating as if they were new, while making old contacts function perfectly despite the ravages of time and adverse environments. In simple terms, Stabilant 22 provides the reliability of a soldered joint without producing a mechanical bond. It also exhibits excellent lubricating properties, but does not creep; it is exceptionally stable, and has a very low vapor pressure. Its continued regular use will enhance contact reliability for many years.





http://www.stabilant.com/

http://www.posthorn.com/Stab_2.html

 
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Ok thanks ezone. I just make sure I can use my conductive grease if the same situation occurs to me.

 
Rep Power: 210

Salvage yard entrance = $3
Used speed sensor = $12
Easy fix = priceless

Fortunately, found exact same year, make, model with A/T that had the speed sensor still in it. Definitely, some differences among sensors within the same generation. Some gears spin clockwise, some spin counter-clockwise, and there are gear diameter differences. The gear splines on the failed part is worn pretty badly. The splines on the used replaced part look to be in very good condition.

 
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Think it was worn down so far it was no longer able to spin anymore?

Change fluid more often?

 
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Possibly..my guess anyway.

Did 3x3 ATF drain and fill 15k ago when I first purchased it. Plan to another in 15k if, it makes it that far..lol