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Cooling system all burped, no air, radiator completely full to the top?

Did it get a new thermostat yet?
Got any codes?

 
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Morning, tstat was changed last week before the head was done.
Now!
Im back to the a/c thing blowing hot air again! DANGIT!!!
Just wondering if maybe there is some sensor in the AC circuit that is in the engine compartment that is screwing this up again! As I type this the AC is now working again. Arggggggg!!?

Temperature sensor on the cluster is going up to a quarter, then rising to a half, then dropping off to approximately one or two bars and then back to half. I think that there is a thermostat sensor going south as well in the cooling circuit.

 
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If the engine runs too hot the computer can shut down the AC compressor

 
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Wow, I see!!!

OK ezone, everything is running on this car tiptop except the air conditioning again. If I drive 50mph and less give or take I noticed that it seems to cycle correctly. But I was just in the city and when it turned off it turned off for a long time and then when it came back on it got nice and cold for about five minutes and shut off for about 20. Any ideas what this might be as obviously the compressor is working because it is spitting out ice cubes just about as I type this text (just perfect), even while I sit and idle in the parking lot it cycles on and off properly it's nice and cold but when I get in the city where it's very hot something in the engine compartment I think goes south momentarily!

I'm getting frustrated at this because it works so nicely except for some little sensor somewhere. Thanks😊

 
Rep Power: 210

A/C stopped working again yesterday. Brought it to a local independent mechanic and explained to him a/c not working and that I replaced the condenser fan two months ago. He put pressure gauges on it and performed a fuse voltage test while still in fuse holder. Freon is fine however, fuse #56 for condenser fan/ compressor is blown. Mechanic replaced and it immediately blew again. Disconnected condenser fan and fuse stayed intact. He said to replace with new condenser fan.. he didn't charge fee for testing.

After doing some research online it may not be as simple as replacing the condenser fan. I spun the fan by hand and it did spin freely but, was a bit noisy and I'm not sure if the fan employs a bearing or stator? At this point is it advised to check the condenser fan by connecting directly to battery via leads with alligator clips (I made some previously)?

Reply #2 in this forum post seems to narrow down another possibility:
http://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-mi...owing-2650084/ any thoughts?

 
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Whose thread is this and what car are we working on?

 
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Turd: the condenser fan MUST run every time the compressor turns on. If the fuse quit blowing when the fan was unplugged, replace the fan motor.

Lunartic: need more info

 
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Ok well not spitting ice cubes, but I think its chilling well.
But if it gets really hot out, it (compressor) turns off after chilling the cabin and doesn't cycle.
After maybe 10 min or so it will load the engine with the clutch pulling in and then cooling again. While driving in the city, it was pretty much off until I parked it for an hour, when I started again after the break, it came on right away, for about 3/4 min. Just enough for you to get a taste... and then OFF!!!

I'm 99.9% positive that the evap coil is not frozen (ice block) as I still have great air flow through the vents.
And then when I get out on the highway north of the city where the air temperature is cooler and the car is cooler it seems to stay on and cycle properly.

Thanks

 
Rep Power: 518

Ok, you're gonna have to start at square one again, rediagnose.

What year is the car again? (01 is wired different from 02-05)

When the AC quits, is the compressor clutch disengaged?
Are the radiator fans still on after it quits?

Is the comp clutch getting powered up by the relay?
Is the field coil open circuit?

Engine running, AC turned on but still not working: Can you push on the clutch hub and make it engage?

 
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Schweet.. I'll take a fan replacement over a compressor replacement anytime and if a new fan fixes the issue I will be back to the 6th gen's marginally average air cooling..hooray.

 
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It's a civic 05.
When the comp cycles off properly the rad fan does too.
I hear clutch click and disengage.
I haven't looked to see if the relay is working when it quits.
Maybe that's what I'll try tomorrow, I'll swap the relay with the one beside it and see what happens. Could be that the relay is going. I will check the hub if I can next time it craps out with the heat but it's hard to get anywhere near that thing without taking my tire off.
Seems that if the car is moving with good airflow possibly through the engine bay the compressor cycles properly but when it gets really hot in stop and go traffic it just doesn't want to start back up, or it could take some time. Pressures are all good on the high and low side according to the mechanic.

Would PO128 have anything to do with this? But code showed up on my code reader this morning something about coolant sensor.
Cheers...

 
Rep Power: 518

My questions might sound random, unless you understand how various parts of the system work together. I lumped several together to save time, but I still need specific answers.
Normally if I asked one question at a time, the answer you give determines the next question. This could take days.

If the fans quit at the same time it's not going to be the clutch relay. That's why I ask about the fans.
I can see it with the hood open. Might need a flashlight, but it can be seen. I'd use a prybar to push on the clutch plate, also from above.
Need to know the status, I assume it's not engaged when the system stops cooling but needs verified.

Then you'll have to check for power and ohm check while it's still hot enough that it's quit. I might do some checking from the relay socket for convenience.




Maaaybe. Maybe not. IDK. You said your car has the temp gauge going whacko, right? Code might be due to the same cause as the gauge issue.
P0128 is usually related to a thermostat problem, but if you have temp sensor problems that could also cause it.

 
Rep Power: 210

This is my thread initially and that other sum-b**ch hijacked it..lol
JK.. just happened that the junkyard fan I installed two months ago has failed and I figured why start a new thread. I ordered this fan last night: https://www.amazon.com/TYC-610080-Re.../dp/B000IYSIUC
Carry-on Sirs.

Thanks for the replies EZ.

 
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New condenser fan in and a/c working again. Thanks Ezone.

 
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Right arm!

 
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Condenser fuse blew again so, it's looking like a very possible compressor clutch coil issue: Reply #7 http://www.clubcivic.com/forum/threa...unning.189816/

About a year ago I replaced the a/c clutch bearing assembly with a used one and I did not replace the clutch coil. I reassembled it as shown in this video (from 18:40 mark onwards). Unlike, as shown in video (at 23:40 mark), when I tightened the bolt the past a certain point the pulley would stop turning due to friction. I certainly couldn't run it down with an impact gun. I added blue thread lock and tightened enough to where the pulley would still spin freely just before further tighteneing would cause friction. Should I have added more spacers/washers? It's run for a year like that without issue until now.




Looks like the coil can be replaced by removing the additional snap ring shown in the video. Another possibility it seems could be the clutch coil's positive wire may have become exposed and grounding out against chassis.
Surprisingly, AutoBoned (shafted) sells the clutch coil for $30: http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...946346_0_7356/

 
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Blew which fuse # ?


EDIT: #56?
Very possible.

You could measure amp draws of the fan motor and the clutch coil if you want to really narrow it down.

 
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20A condensor fan (compressor fuse).

I only have a crappy DMM.. will that work? If so, what procedure?

 
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So you've gone from blowing fuses immediately until the fan was unplugged, to taking 3 days to blow the fuse?
Could it still be the fan causing it?
Is anything obstructing the fan blade/contact?

Does the "crappy DMM" have an ammeter function on it? (guess not)
Borrow one? I usually prefer an inductive ammeter, but wired is also usable.

With a basic DMM you might be limited to measuring resistance, then wiggling wiring while watching meter to see if it changes dramatically, indicating a short to ground.
If something like the coil grounded internally only when hot you won't find it like this though.

Comp clutch coil will measure something like 3.5-4 ohms, that equals maybe 3-4 amps load when operating.
IDK what the fan motor will measure as, but the amp load running probably should be under 10A, (GUESSING) in the 6A range. Initial start will be higher than that but running amperage is lower than startup amperage.

You could split the circuits apart and isolate them.....wire in a separate fuse for each leg (component) and see which one blows.....
If the #56 is a 20A, wire up a 15A covering the fan motor part of the circuit and another 15A covering the compressor part of the circuit.
I might change that to a 10A for the compressor side. IDK. Needs more thought.

I could make an extension harness for each of the two relays involved (cond.fan and compressor) and locate the new extra fuse in each extension. This would make it easy to remove and restore to original after you figure out where the problem is.

 
Rep Power: 210

Fan is new so, I hope it's not the fan. Nothing obstructing fan blades.

My brother may have an ammeter I can borrow

All connections to fan look to be in good shape. When I get a chance I'll jack the car up and inspect compressor wiring as well as the distance/resistance between the clutch and pulley.

Okay. I can at least measure the clutch coil ohms with my DMM.

This sounds a lot like the dude's suggestion I linked in reply #97:

(copied & pasted)"My guess is the condenser fan is good and the problem is the A/C compressor clutch coil or the A/C CTP switch. A simple test is to unplug both the A/C compressor clutch relay and the condenser fan relay, using a jumper wire with a 10A fuse in it, jump the in/out terminals of the condenser fan relay plug, condenser fan will turn on, [ign. switch does not need to be on] let it run, if fuse does not blow remove jumper, plug condenser relay back in, start car and turn A/C on, install fused jumper on the in and out terminals of the compressor clutch relay plug, compressor will turn on, condenser fan will also turn on, my guess is the 10A fuse in the jumper will blow turning off the compressor, meaning the problem is the compressor clutch coil or the A/C CTP switch, the switch will be mounted to the compressor and is not removable on most compressors, wires on plug can be jumped for testing, reinstall compressor clutch relay, jump the A/C CTPswitch plug and turn system on, if fuse no longer blows it is the A/C CTP switch that is bad, if fuse still blows it is the compressor clutch coil that is bad, if it is the A/C CTP switch you can take your chances and leave the plug jumped if it is not the removable kind of switch, the coil will be replaceable, either way, coil or switch, the compressor will have to be pulled and that means a recovery and a recharge.94"

What is an A/C CTP switch, where is it located? Does compressor have to be removed to diagnose or replace it?

You do enough here and I don't want you to go through the trouble and expense. I do appreciate the offer though.

 
Rep Power: 518

Same idea. (I'm not sure I ever read the whole thing)

Probably refers to the thermal protector, and that can be replaced alone if necessary. Or bypassed temporarily.

 
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Completed testing as described in link and it isolated issue to the compressor coil. Pretty cool test and I learned about relays inthe process. The coils sold at Autozone are OEM which seems really odd but, good. I'll post results.

 
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I wasn't aware the individual pieces were available in the aftermarket stores.

OEM brand? (that O.E.M. brand is made in china junk, be aware)
Or Honda parts reboxed?

 
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http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...946346_0_7356/ You're probably correct. It states: OEM standard, Denso equipped. Package Contents: Clutch Coil - Denso 10PA (12 Volt)

I don't feeling like pulling a used one and it's inexpensive + available so giving it a go.. hope it holds up.

 
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Santech....
http://www.santech.com/images/pdfs/L...file-Email.pdf

Let us know how it goes!

 
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My cheapo HF snap ring pliers won't reach the clutch coil's snap ring. It's hard to get the job done when your tool isn't long enough..LOL.

 
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Ok, many apologies Sir Turd for Shanghaiing your post. 😉
Pardon my Internet forum ignorance as I am an old fella
and am still learning of Internet forum etiquette! 😂😂😂

Ha ha, ok Ezone, I finally have had the time to answer your questions prior in regards to my compressor turning off and not cycling correctly. Today I noticed while troubleshooting on my way home from work but it was working on and off almost correctly but did go off once and came back on approximately 10 minutes later. While it was in the run mode with the AC light on I observed the clutch disengaged as well I traded a relay to see if that was the problem, it still did not engage the clutch. While the controller was calling for AC, I also noticed that both fans were still running with clutch disengaged. I turned off my green light AC switch inside and both fans turn off, and turning the switch back on turned on the fans but did not restart the compressor/clutch. I was able to force (push)the clutch in by pushing it in with a stick and it engaged. I am pretty sure that it is the clutch coil that is getting hot or maybe just laboured and old because it seems to work fine or damn near when it is cooler outside and the engine bay is cooler, but when it gets hot like today it turns off after a little bit usually in 15 minutes or so. Sometimes it comes back on with revving the throttle or maybe even possibly a bump in the road! This is the last little outstanding issue with the car that I am just getting frustrated with, I guess it could possibly be the interior's control again but I'm just not sure!!!!!

Thanks fellas in advance. 😊

 
Rep Power: 210

Purchased a good quality snap ring pliers with changeable pins (Allen wrench) and removed the coil's snap ring. Disconnected wires, pulled it off and new part doesn't match up because: new part is Denso and compressor is Sanden.

Found the correct coil online for $25 ($8 less) and it will be here in a few days. If, I had the right snap ring tool and correct part before I got started this would be about a 1 to 1.5 hour repair. I will post results.

 
Rep Power: 518

Check for Air gap is too big between clutch plate and pulley.
Remove shims to get closer to 0.5mm clearance.
Done.





EDIT: clearance spec .50mm +/-.15mm =
.35mm-.65mm
or about .013"-.025"

 
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Ok, there is only the one washer behind clutch. I've checked that, it's a stock washer, but not sure of the thickness. I read that elsewhere in one of your other posts.