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I have a 99 Civic DX . I was driving back from a work trip at night. The upper radiator hose built pressure and popped off. This caused my vehicle to overheat (Highway use). When I realized this and stopped my car shut off on its own with white smoke. I got the vehicle towed back to the house, I was starting to tear apart the head to see if i had any damage that I can tell my wires and plugs were fused to the chamber. I had those removed and replaced. The head gasket is still good. Upper and lower radiator hoses have now been changed with proper clamps. New radiator, when I turn the crankshaft it spins with little to no resistance as usual. Checked if i was getting power to the plugs (I was not) so changed the distributor. After all this my car attempts to crank but sill not start, I need help!

 
Rep Power: 518

Ran it overheated until it quit running by itself......Needs an engine.

 
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There are a few possibilities. The crank position sensor could have been compromised/melted. That's where I would start. If you know anyone who is willing to let you barrow theirs to check and swap back after, that would be helpful. Is the crank spinning freely with the engine together or apart? If it is together it should not move freely, if that is the case you may need to change your rings, which I would recommend you doing if it is apart since you overheated them anyway. Is there any other else that is happening when you try to start it? Is it possible that either the fuel pump isn't working or that the lines aren't pressurized? Listen for the pump before starting and there should be a schrader valve on the fuel rail that you can use to check the fuel pressure.

Ezone, the only reason to buy a new engine after it has overheated is if the block, sleeves, or head castings were compromised. If not, then all you really need to do is replace the bearings and rings if you want it running smoothly again.

 
Rep Power: 518

Overheated, warped the head, collapsed the rings, hardened everything made of rubber in the vicinity....
If overheated to the point it quit running on its own, there's a good possibility it has also melted aluminum from the head or pistons.

I've seen enough of these to shoot from the hip, as it were, given the info OP posted about the thermal event.
I know what would need to happen in a shop to guarantee a good outcome, if the engine has truly been that hot.


Sure it can be rebuilt, maybe....
Did it warp the head bad enough it is now scrap? I'd expect so, given the story.

IMO it's quicker and cheaper for an average person to drop a good used engine in, if one can be found.
Labor fees to rebuild in a shop would be killer.



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So anyway, you're right....let's have OP do some of the usual testing.....a compression test should be in order, then assuming that's not good, see why there's little or no compression.
Is the timing belt intact and correctly timed?
Did the valve clearances get really tight?

What makes OP say the head gasket is still good?
How about a cooling system pressure test?
How about a cylinder leakdown test?
How about full air line pressure in each cylinder to see if there's a breach into the cooling system?



There is no Schrader on Hondas fuel rails.

 
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As for fuel when I replaced the fuel injectors, I tested out the fuel pump by turning the key ( without starting) and witnessed the fuel being pushed out via the pump. as for the crank spinning freely it is while the engine is torn down. I am going to quickly diagnose if the position sensor is to blame.

 
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There is not Schrader valve on aftermarket rails however there should be one on an oem rail.
Just because it shut off doesn't mean there's any damage. Honda like to put failsafes and their vehicles that shut the vehicles off when damage could occur. That's why sometimes when the check engine light flashes the engine will either shut off or won't start. Also why I won't start if the sensors are bad. You're right he should pressure test the engine. However I was going to have him take it step by step first. Is the most likely culprit so I had him check that first. It's better to check the items around the engine as well. Coolant pressure will not cause it to not start. However that is something he should check since the lower hose blew off.

 
Rep Power: 204

 
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Ok new update. I am getting no compression at all. So I removed the head and I bringing it to a machine shop down the road after work and get a quote on a rebuild on it.

 
Rep Power: 210

Very good advice. OP did you do a leakdown test?

 
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Bent valves are in the spotlight right now. I brought the head into the machine shop and we seen that there has been evidence of piston strikes on the valves and there is gapage on the valve seals.

 
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got word from the Machine Shop; 8 bent valves. should have it back later today.

 
Rep Power: 518

Popping a hose and overheating won't bend valves.....What else happened?
Did it jump time? Did you spin cam or crank without the timing belt in place?

 
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must have jumped time also because it bent all 8 exhaust valves, Just got head back and going to install it in the next hour, More information to follow.

 
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Update: Head is back in, I am getting compression, but when I attempt to crank, The engine turns but does not want to catch. I am losing my mind slowly but surely.

 
Rep Power: 518

Verify:
Cam-crank relationship (belt timing)
correct valve clearances (valve adjustment)
Distributor, plug wire positions around the dist cap (wrong firing order)
Code scanner, see if there are any helpful fault codes (forgot to connect any sensors)


Compression test?
Plugs wet or dry?