Mom bought a 1997 civic LX (AT, Non-V-tech) at an auto auction and decided to take it for a 100 mile trip without checking anything. Well long story short it had a leak in a hose and overheated on the freeway.

I took the head in and had it milled, replaced the head gasket, checked the valves and changed out the fluids. Test drive worked great until it came to operating temp, car would struggle, sputter, shake and turn off. Had to wait until it cooled off until it would turn back on. Then drove great again until it got back to the house.

Her "mechanic" told her to have me clean the IACV unit and that would fix the issues I was having... Nope sure didnt. Now Im getting P0301,302,303,304,1399,1300 and the car wont start. I checked all the wiring and hoses and everything checks out. Also the compression has dropped from 165-168 in all cylinders to 148-150 in all cylinders.

Im at a loss here guys.

Possibly, bent valves.. Have you performed a timing belt change or adjustment before this one? Have you reset the ECU to see if the codes disappear? Did you have the machine shop install new valve seals at the time they resurfaced it and did a valve job?
During a head gasket change it's easy to damage the knock sensor if, not careful after intake manifold is seperated from cylinder head. Crankshaft sensor in proper position?
Did you test the distributor's ICM and igniter?

Timing belt and waterpump were done at the time of a new head gasket, ecu was reset by both the negative terminal and the fuse. New valve seals were installed with the milling yes.

I didnt think the d16y7 block had a knock sensor? I cannot locate one on engine. CSS is in the correct position as well, just checked again.

Have not checked the ICM but will now. I was getting strong blue spark at my last check.

Pulled the plugs out about a half an hour ago and they are pure fouled in carbon. Cleaned them and was able to drive a few blocks until the sputtering and CEL came back, resulting in a push back to the driveway.

It sounds like you have experience with 6th/7th gen motors. I asked because as you probably already know an incorrect TB install could easily damage valves or misfires if the belt has jumped teeth.

Sorry, you are correct..D16Y7 doesn't have a knock sensor. Mine is a D16Y8 and I just guessed that a D16Y7 has one. I damaged my engine's knock sensor during a fairly recent head hasket repair...lol.

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/hon...rt-condition-1

Maybe the need replacement (NGK brand) and gapped

New plugs and gapped them, same symptoms and the new ones are also fouled with carbon after 30min drive around the neighborhood. Looks like the fuel system is way too rich and that is whats causing my engine to run poorly.

Valve adjustment correct?

Checked and I have .025mm on the exhaust and .020mm on the intake side. according to the manual this is acceptable correct?

.23-.27 mm (.009-.0011 inches) for the exhaust side. The intake settings are .18-.22 mm (.007-.009 inches)

Valve Lash:
http://www.angelfire.com/biz7/aiperf...djustment.html

A read on lean/rich conditions:
http://www.linnbenton.edu/auto/perform/fuel_info.html
http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/rich-fuel-trim.html

Recheck o2 sensor connection

Where in the world would you find feelers with those numbers? I hope you only typed the decimal in the wrong spot LOL

I agree with the specs turd posted.

I just asked about adjustment because I didn't notice it mentioned when I skimmed the thread.

Oops haha my bad. Yeah I placed the decimal wrong.

I used that to check the valves after I had the head done haha. O2 sensor is new, replaced today actually.

Got all the CEL to go away by replacing the sensor that leads into the block where all the coolant runs. No more sputtering or hard starting at any temp!

Still sputters and loses power as soon as the engine warms up enough

So, are you saying you posted the wrong valve lash specs as Ezone inquired?

http://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-de...-temp-2807657/

Have you checked ignition timing?
Did you remove and clean the throttle body?

That is one of three coolant sensors:

Another possibility is the TDC/CYL sensor inside the distributor.

Another possibility is the TDC/CYL sensor inside the distributor.

http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Ron..._3396.jpg.html

Read this... especially the last few post:
http://www.d-series.org/forums/gener...ng-mayhem.html

If, you end up replacing the distributor.. make sure you get OE/OEM either new or from salvage yard (if you can find one).

Had a local mechanic come by and he couldnt figure it out either. Said the fuel pressure is correct, compression is good, holds air in a leak down test and even though the timing was slightly off, he adjusted it and nothing changed.

My coworker was nice enough to let me use one off his hatchback, no change. I dont get why it can run fine when cold but when it warms up it loses all power and runs like crap.

I'd plug in a good scanner and start scrutinizing live operating data.