Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
completely pulling the passenger side and hope that's there's rattling and/or sloppy play in the inner joint.
With the car/wheel in the air, slide under it and place one hand on the inboard CV 'cup', other hand around the axle shaft, and twist them...... like you are trying to unscrew them apart, both directions. If there is significant play like a shot roller, you may feel it as free play.
In that check above, you won't be able to feel the particular type of wear, if present, that causes the drivetrain to wiggle side to side though. That would be denting the cup (slot) where the rollers always ride, the dents would normally be on the acceleration side of the slots.
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Rep Power: 211 Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
Make sure you can reuse the band clamps before you try to take it apart. It's tough to get more of those clamps that work well from a parts store.
With the car/wheel in the air, slide under it and place one hand on the inboard CV 'cup', other hand around the axle shaft, and twist them...... like you are trying to unscrew them apart, both directions. If there is significant play like a shot roller, you may feel it as free play.
In that check above, you won't be able to feel the particular type of wear, if present, that causes the drivetrain to wiggle side to side though. That would be denting the cup (slot) where the rollers always ride, the dents would normally be on the acceleration side of the slots.
With the car/wheel in the air, slide under it and place one hand on the inboard CV 'cup', other hand around the axle shaft, and twist them...... like you are trying to unscrew them apart, both directions. If there is significant play like a shot roller, you may feel it as free play.
In that check above, you won't be able to feel the particular type of wear, if present, that causes the drivetrain to wiggle side to side though. That would be denting the cup (slot) where the rollers always ride, the dents would normally be on the acceleration side of the slots.
Thread Starter
OF top 99.5% creator (Formerly of the Puffinblunts variety)
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Rep Power: 211 Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
Removed CV half shaft and the inner an outer joint are working properly with no play (just outer boot torn). I tried to knock the outer joint off the shaft spline and it wouldn't budge. I could use a pulley remover on it and get it off but, I already purchased a new CV half shaft $70 earlier today and I didn't feel like going back to parts store to rent a puller, purchase boot kit $20, and CV pliers $10 to repair the old axle.
The new CV axle installation went smoothly and the outer shaft seal is in good condition so, I reused it... but, my engine cranks but won't run. I don't think the two are related and it must be coincidental. I started the engine two days ago (been on jack stands since then) after I finished the mounts install and recheck of mechanical timing and it started and ran fine. I'm beat and it's dark so I don't plan to look into the no-start issue until tomorrow. The one thing this car has done faithfully since purchase is start and run..til now. Frustrating!
I found this similar thread: http://allautosinfo.com/discussion/1...le-replacement.
Maybe , I'll buy some starter fluid and try it.
Update! Successfully got it to start by fulling depressing gas pedal for 3 seconds .. engine turned over and I let off the gas pedal and it cranked and ran.. let it idle for 5 minutes before driving.
Now, the bad part: drove it for a couple blocks and was stopped at a slight uphill stop sign. Gave it a bit gas and hear a loud clunk and then loss forward momentum. I turned the engine off and pushed it home. Either the inner joint shaft spline wasn't seated into the differential correctly (although I check several times).. I used light hi-temp grease on inner axle spine, or it leaked out tranny fluid that I didn't see and I forget to check tranny level or ** I noticed before I installed the CV axle that the outer joint on this new shaft was very tight and lacked movement (almost like it was no grease in it) when I checked it by hand before installing it. The inner joint moved freely by hand. The old shaft both joints moved freely by hand. I just assumed the new outer joint would loosen up after install.
Starts fine in park. I didn't put in gear and just plan to remove it again tomorrow and pray there's no differential damage.
The new CV axle installation went smoothly and the outer shaft seal is in good condition so, I reused it... but, my engine cranks but won't run. I don't think the two are related and it must be coincidental. I started the engine two days ago (been on jack stands since then) after I finished the mounts install and recheck of mechanical timing and it started and ran fine. I'm beat and it's dark so I don't plan to look into the no-start issue until tomorrow. The one thing this car has done faithfully since purchase is start and run..til now. Frustrating!
I found this similar thread: http://allautosinfo.com/discussion/1...le-replacement.
Maybe , I'll buy some starter fluid and try it.
Update! Successfully got it to start by fulling depressing gas pedal for 3 seconds .. engine turned over and I let off the gas pedal and it cranked and ran.. let it idle for 5 minutes before driving.
Now, the bad part: drove it for a couple blocks and was stopped at a slight uphill stop sign. Gave it a bit gas and hear a loud clunk and then loss forward momentum. I turned the engine off and pushed it home. Either the inner joint shaft spline wasn't seated into the differential correctly (although I check several times).. I used light hi-temp grease on inner axle spine, or it leaked out tranny fluid that I didn't see and I forget to check tranny level or ** I noticed before I installed the CV axle that the outer joint on this new shaft was very tight and lacked movement (almost like it was no grease in it) when I checked it by hand before installing it. The inner joint moved freely by hand. The old shaft both joints moved freely by hand. I just assumed the new outer joint would loosen up after install.
Starts fine in park. I didn't put in gear and just plan to remove it again tomorrow and pray there's no differential damage.
Last edited by Wankenstein; Nov 8, 2015 at 06:53 PM.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 519 Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
Successfully got it to start by fulling depressing gas pedal for 3 seconds
Now, the bad part: drove it for a couple blocks and was stopped at a slight uphill stop sign. Gave it a bit gas and hear a loud clunk and then loss forward momentum. I turned the engine off and pushed it home. Either the inner joint shaft spline wasn't seated into the differential correctly (although I check several times).. I used light hi-temp grease on inner axle spine, or it leaked out tranny fluid that I didn't see and I forget to check tranny level or **
Axle broke or pulled out of the trans?
Start it and put in gear, speedo shows a road speed?
Look to see what parts are turning and not turning.
If it pulled out of the trans, see if it was missing the snap ring or if the snap ring didn't have enough expansion to lock it in the trans. (don't go overboard with that, it's easy to expand the ring too far and make the axle a permanent part of the trans!)
I noticed before I installed the CV axle that the outer joint on this new shaft was very tight and lacked movement (almost like it was no grease in it) when I checked it by hand before installing it. The inner joint moved freely by hand. The old shaft both joints moved freely by hand. I just assumed the new outer joint would loosen up after install.
Thread Starter
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Rep Power: 211 Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
Flooded......Maybe too many starts without getting the engine up to temp?
Not good....
Axle broke or pulled out of the trans?
Start it and put in gear, speedo shows a road speed? Look to see what parts are turning and not turning.
If it pulled out of the trans, see if it was missing the snap ring or if the snap ring didn't have enough expansion to lock it in the trans. (don't go overboard with that, it's easy to expand the ring too far and make the axle a permanent part of the trans!) Outer joint will 'wear in' and loosen up with use.
Not good....
Axle broke or pulled out of the trans?
Start it and put in gear, speedo shows a road speed? Look to see what parts are turning and not turning.
If it pulled out of the trans, see if it was missing the snap ring or if the snap ring didn't have enough expansion to lock it in the trans. (don't go overboard with that, it's easy to expand the ring too far and make the axle a permanent part of the trans!) Outer joint will 'wear in' and loosen up with use.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 519 Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
sheeet, set the brake hard and do it on the ground. Open the hood and grab a flashlight and see what you can see....
once you figure out what's spinning and what isn't, then jack it up. IF you can see it.
once you figure out what's spinning and what isn't, then jack it up. IF you can see it.
Thread Starter
OF top 99.5% creator (Formerly of the Puffinblunts variety)
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Rep Power: 211 Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
I set the E-brake as hard as possible
Put in drive and watch speedo
Keep car in drive and E-brake engaged
Get out of car (hood already open) and watch axle and hub for movement?
or you meant 2 person check:
2nd person engages brake pedal
while in gear and I check parts?
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 519 Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
Just so I am clear on this as a 1man check:
I set the E-brake as hard as possible
Put in drive and watch speedo
Keep car in drive and E-brake engaged
Get out of car (hood already open) and watch axle and hub for movement?
or you meant 2 person check:
2nd person engages brake pedal
while in gear and I check parts?
I set the E-brake as hard as possible
Put in drive and watch speedo
Keep car in drive and E-brake engaged
Get out of car (hood already open) and watch axle and hub for movement?
or you meant 2 person check:
2nd person engages brake pedal
while in gear and I check parts?
Thread Starter
OF top 99.5% creator (Formerly of the Puffinblunts variety)
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,634
Likes: 109
Rep Power: 211 Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
Inner axle slipped out, speedo working,
differential splines look good, viewable shavings next to nil. Clip is/was on, joints working, only noticable damage is the splines are worn at the inner axle tip ( in front of clip).
Going to parts store to replace.
Update!: new part obtained and installed. Have not run engine yet... Should I first do an ATF drain and fill to help remove shavings?
Update: drove it for about 30 minutes.. did not do drain and fill. Amazing how things work properly when installed correctly...lessen learned.
The parts strore was cool..no questions asked. On a positive note there is now less vibration from the motor mounts. Thanks again for all your help Ezone.
differential splines look good, viewable shavings next to nil. Clip is/was on, joints working, only noticable damage is the splines are worn at the inner axle tip ( in front of clip).
Going to parts store to replace.
Update!: new part obtained and installed. Have not run engine yet... Should I first do an ATF drain and fill to help remove shavings?
Update: drove it for about 30 minutes.. did not do drain and fill. Amazing how things work properly when installed correctly...lessen learned.
The parts strore was cool..no questions asked. On a positive note there is now less vibration from the motor mounts. Thanks again for all your help Ezone.
Last edited by Wankenstein; Nov 9, 2015 at 05:10 PM.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 519 Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
Since the axle is steel, any shavings from the damaged splines (hopefully) ought to get stuck on the magnet(s).
Even though it is not real likely to get any of these shavings out of the trans, changing the ATF is always a great idea LOL
Even though it is not real likely to get any of these shavings out of the trans, changing the ATF is always a great idea LOL
Thread Starter
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Rep Power: 211 Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
I just recieved the $5 dollar (plus $10 for S&H) used timing light today. I could probably drive in nails with it..solid metal. I plan to check ingition timing soon just to make sure the spot where the distributor is at now (chisled mark on both distributor and cylinder head) is the correct timing.
Thread Starter
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Rep Power: 211 Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
I just figured out why it had a starting issue the other day. I replaced the coolant/heater hose that branches off near the block and connects to throttle body. Must of created an air pocket. Seems to running fine now.
New after-market axles don't come with the small rubber balancer on the driver's side.
What purpose does that balancer serve and why isn't on new axles?
New after-market axles don't come with the small rubber balancer on the driver's side.
What purpose does that balancer serve and why isn't on new axles?
Last edited by Wankenstein; Nov 11, 2015 at 04:05 PM.
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