Rep Power: 0

The car starts and idles fine on hot or cold startups. After the engine is warm and I'm in stop and go traffic, I come off the gas the idle goes real low and the engine basically stalls. if it doesn't stall after about 5 seconds the idle come up and corrects itself. I cleaned The Throttle body and the IACV, it didn't look too bad. put it back together and now its worse. when the car is warm and I come to a stop she stalls. I start it right back up and she idles perfect. also did an idle learn after putting throttle body back together. I also never get check engine light.
I want to replace the whole throttle body.
Does anyone think replacing the throttle body is the answer or am I wasting my time?
Can there be other issues causing this problem?

 
Rep Power: 174

How do your spark plugs look? The o2 sensors? I doubt getting a new throttle body will change anything.

 
Rep Power: 0

spark plugs are brand new. O2 sensors? not getting any codes.

 
Rep Power: 244

Maybe a bad IACV?

 
Rep Power: 174

Your 02 sensors (particularly the one before your catalytic converter) are how your vehicle's computer detects how well the fuel is burning by monitoring your exhaust gases. It then adjusts the amount of fuel that goes into the cylinders. If your sensor has been fouled (which is NOT uncommon), it can mess up the readings and your mixture can be burning too lean.

Bottom line: Check it. If it's old, consider replacing it with the correct part.

 
Rep Power: 0

It's the original O2 sensors. I am the single owner. I'm not getting a check engine light or any codes. Can anyone tell me the normal readings on the O2 sensors when I connect the scan tool?

 
Rep Power: 0

This happened with mine recently, the primary o2 sensor was dead. On my HX which is a different o2 sensor than the others, the voltages wouldn't go above 0.55volts. Now that I replaced it, the voltages move all over the place. On bad ones I've also seen where it's just one voltage, never changing, that also shows it's bad. The voltages when looked at via the live data on the scan tool, you'll see the voltages (on a good sensor) bounce around a lot and not stay in one place.

When I tested the resistance (from the electrical connector) it showed the sensor was bad as well. But I never got a check engine light!!

 
Rep Power: 174

If the sensors are 16 years old, it's probably time to replace them. This will do nothing but help, I promise... even if it doesn't fully solve the problem. It's not difficult.

 
Rep Power: 0

There 50 bucks a pop and there are 2 of them. I've been investing a lot of money into this car thinking its finally going to be a reliable car. Anyway enough about me. I played with the idle air screw on the top of the throttle body. Turned it a 1/4 turn counterclockwise and it seemed to clear up. Drove back and forth to work, no issues. Did I really make things better or worse?

 
Rep Power: 244

Sounds like you made them better

 
Rep Power: 174

I agree. Anything that makes your car run better IS better! You should still consider changing the upstream (pre-catalytic converter) sensor at some point... your fuel efficiency can only benefit from it!