AJQuinn

Hey all, I've been searching for weeks trying to figure out the keyless programming issue I'm having on my American 97 Civic EX. I have the factory radio (with antenna rod on the back), green and white plugs in. Everything functions properly on the radio itself. My door mounted lock switch works fine. I appear to have all the necessary fuses under the hood and under the dash (#42, 47, 52, 14 and 28). Here's the steps I am doing to program the remote.
1. turn key to II (on)
2. hold valet switch on radio within 10 seconds
3. Radio light shuts off but locks do not cycle.
4. Immediately push a button the remote while holding valet still (A269ZUA101 deck says 102 but 101 and 106 are supposed to work as well).
5. turn key to 0 (off)
After this I noticed the dome light was coming on and off when I pushed lock/unlock on the remote. So it's partially programming. Anyone have an idea about this? Would be greatly appreciated!

ezone

Here's a PDF, what you need starts on page 4

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/98-011.pdf

HTH

AJQuinn

Hopefully the next person to reply actually reads my problem...

ezone

Calm down, I'm at work and only had a minute to be on here. I gave you what I could find in that minute.
And, yeah I read it the first time.

If the locks never cycled to indicate the start of programming mode, then either you made an error or something is broke.
I linked the factory instructions, just in case you made an error.

Before condemning either the controller or something else, I'd use a wiring diagram and make sure all of the wiring between the keyless control unit and the power lock control unit is good, just to rule out a wiring issue. Those cars are ripe for wiring issues. The door jamb harness loves to break wires.

Is there a lock/unlock signal output from the keyless control unit?
Do those same signals actually reach the power lock control unit?

3 important wires would be
Blue/yellow is for the drivers unlock input signal (to the pwr lock unit)
Green/white = lock signal at inside lock switch
Green/orange = unlock signal at inside lock switch

AJQuinn

thanks, I tried an ohm test between the blue/yellow wire on the radio harness and the lock module harness and wasn't getting anything. This wire should be complete in all conditions? I had the door open. I do have a second set of door harness wires and lock switch but you think the connection is more prone to breaking behind the fender right? Also, how do I go about testing the signal from the radios port to make sure the radio is sending a signal to lock the doors as well?

Thanks again

ezone

Yes, if you picked the correct blu/yel wire.

Like, make sure you didn't pick the yellow/blue (security), or the blue/yellow that goes to the L.R. speaker.


The door harness isn't the usual problem.
The wires that commonly break are the ones in the jamb (between door and body). Pull the rubber boot away from the door connector and you will likely find the wires in question detached/broken away from the door plug.

It would require a floor harness replacement if you can't repair the individual wires.

Voltmeter would be my first pick.

See if this would help: This looked like it has troubleshooting info in it for that year car
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2895034

AJQuinn

I did have both boots behind the fenders pulled down to feed speaker wire through them about a month ago because the door tweeters are losing their connection when the door moves. I didn't find any broken wires then but doesn't mean it's not broken within the wire sleeve. What about cutting the blue/yellow wire and rewiring from the harness of the radio to through the dash, through the door and to the lock module? it probably runs through the fuse box but I could fuse the wire anyways... When measuring that blue/yellow wire to check if a signal is coming from the radio should I clamp the negative of the multimeter to a frame ground and positive to the back of the clips blue/yellow then press the remote (since it's programmed enough to turn on/off the domelight)?

Thanks again for the help!

ezone

That's a pretty dang good indication the jamb wiring is breaking, and you already have some broken (speaker).
You just didn't look hard enough for the new breaks I guess (find the right one and give it a small tug).

The rest of the wires there will slowly deteriorate every time the door is opened, so expect more issues in the future.

That would be an option

It's a trigger or signal circuit, not a power circuit. It doesn't really need to be fused.

Sounds good to me. Any change in the reading would mean something happened. Refer to the trouble charts linked earlier to figure out what the reading should be, if possible.YW