Rep Power: 0

The car was running fine but I decided a compression test was in order anyway. I did the test on my 96 civic ex with 205k miles. I unplugged the electrical connectors for the fuel injectors during the test as to not breathe in a bunch of gas fumes. I did the test, all cylinders came in 175-195, and I put everything back together the way it came apart. Now the car won't start. It cranks just fine, but won't start.

 
Rep Power: 518

See if there is spark.

It is easy to burn out the ignition coil if you didn't disable/disconnect the distributor.

HTH

 
Rep Power: 0

Just checked it with a screwdriver and there isn't spark. How much does a new coil usually cost and what is the difficulty in replacing one?

 
Rep Power: 518

Look it up on the websites for your local parts stores. AutoZoo, Advance, Oreilly, Pep Boys, whatever.
Dealer is about $125,
or 89 plus shipping here: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...C+-+WEASTEC%29


Difficulty? Depends on you.
It is inside the distributor. Remove the cap, rotor (held on with one screw), plastic shield, 2 small screws for the wires, and the coil is held in with 2 screws.

A friend had to buy one for a 97 a couple weeks ago, got it from the Zoo. I think it was like $75. "ALMOST FIT". One screwhole was off by about 1/32 of an inch. So it is currently held in with only one screw, but it got the car running.


HTH

 
Rep Power: 0

I might have a similar issue. I replaced the wires and spark plugs on my 96 civic ex to try and fix a high idle issue and frequent "not starting" issues when the car is warm. could my coil be going out, but still function mostly? or is it complete unrelated? i did clean my IACV which was filthy, but that didn't help much.

 
Rep Power: 518

#1 do a spark check, see if it will throw a lightning bolt 3/4 inch long
#2 do an idle relearn.

If those don't help you, then you need to do some regular diagnosis:

Fuel pressure check, what is the pressure when it won't start?
Is the pump getting powered up by the main relay?
Is the PCM getting powered up by the main relay?

HTH

 
Rep Power: 0

I'll do the spark test tonight and the idle relearn. I want to do it cold and then when its hot to see if there is any difference. I've checked the fuel system already and everything checked out when I tested it. I tested it when it was cold though. Can it change as the car heats up?

i'll check the PCM tomorrow with all the rest of the ignition components as well. I can't fathom why it starts sometimes, but not others. And it depends on how hot the engine is. If the engine is cool and has sat for a while it will start with minimal hesitation, but when its warm and hasn't sat long enough it either won't start or it will bog down like its under a heavy load and finally start, but then my RPMs range from 2-3 thousand at idle!!!

I want a new car I think lol

 
Rep Power: 518

Absolutely.
Temperature affects MANY different things.


Also (this should be obvious) all testing needs to be done when the car is dead. If the car runs, everything will seem good.

 
Rep Power: 0

[quote=ezone;4604552]Absolutely.
Temperature affects MANY different things.

Ok thanks. i guess thats one more thing i will have to check again.

 
Rep Power: 0

Oddly enough i replaced my fuel filter before i did any other tests because my haynes manual suggests it should be changed every 30K and i don't know if it has ever been replaced. And my car no longer surges.. i still have slightly high RPMs occasionally, but my car starts everytime now. i think i got the cheap one from death zone for $20 and it took only 20 minutes maybe to swap. also of note... i shook the gas out of the old filter and it came out dark drown. glad it was at least cleaning the gas i guess.