Driver Side Window issue (replaced regulator and motor)
Driver Side Window issue (replaced regulator and motor)
I was having alot of problems with my drivers side window going so slow. tried the slicione spray and eventually needed to replace regulator and motor. Was good to go for about 2-3 weeks after replacing. Now as of yesterday it goes up sometimes all the way but will be off the rubber molding (Window goes on outer lip) If i hold the rubber molding back in the left hand corner where window meets door i can get it to get up okay but then need to push it up by hand because the rubber molding folds up and makes it get stuck.
I saw the rubber window run channel on majestic parts but not sure if thats exactly what I need because it looks like it runs down the left hand side of door/window and then into the door. here's some pictures if they help.
Thanks alot in advance,
Nick

In this picture, you can see that molding is not straight up. it is folded.

In this picture, you can see that molding is not straight up. it is folded.


In this last picture, you can see how it folds upwards
I saw the rubber window run channel on majestic parts but not sure if thats exactly what I need because it looks like it runs down the left hand side of door/window and then into the door. here's some pictures if they help.
Thanks alot in advance,
Nick

In this picture, you can see that molding is not straight up. it is folded.

In this picture, you can see that molding is not straight up. it is folded.


In this last picture, you can see how it folds upwards
Re: Driver Side Window issue (replaced regulator and motor)
To me it looks like from this diagram that i would need a few things. Does number 6/11 go all the way down into the door?
What is 4/9? Sash?
What is 4/9? Sash?
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Re: Driver Side Window issue (replaced regulator and motor)
Did you ever replace the run channel seal?
6th covers a lot of different cars.
Post your vehicle info in the post and in your profile!
Google-fu:
Honda service bulletin 97-021 (for a 2 door car)
or 98-082 for a 4 door.
6th covers a lot of different cars.
Post your vehicle info in the post and in your profile!
Google-fu:
Honda service bulletin 97-021 (for a 2 door car)
or 98-082 for a 4 door.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 










Re: Driver Side Window issue (replaced regulator and motor)
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...NT+DOOR+WINDOW
11 is the glass run channel seal (the rubber seal) LF door (drivers door).
(The main part you needed, apparently, not including the damaged regulator or any other damaged parts.)
9 and 10 are the steel tracks that the seal fits into down inside the door. They are steel, no rubber at all. Replace only if damaged.
Just gonna SWAG here, your seal looks all bunched up like the glass has been trying to bring it up out of the door and wad it up.
Like the glass has been dragging in the seal real, real bad.
Looks like it needed lubed for long time.
Lubing the seals with spray silicone regularly, helps avoid this.
You have to do the lube long before it gets slow and draggy though.
Most of these that I see have the glass jumped out of the seal groove down inside the door, then when you raise it it tries to go between the rubber and the steel until it jams at the mirror area. Glass pitches forward as it binds by the mirror area. Spreads the track out if someone keeps jamming it, and can screw up the regulator.
Doing the adjustments outlined in the appropriate bulletin helps with this one, after replacing whatever parts got damaged.
HTH
11 is the glass run channel seal (the rubber seal) LF door (drivers door).
(The main part you needed, apparently, not including the damaged regulator or any other damaged parts.)
9 and 10 are the steel tracks that the seal fits into down inside the door. They are steel, no rubber at all. Replace only if damaged.
Just gonna SWAG here, your seal looks all bunched up like the glass has been trying to bring it up out of the door and wad it up.
Like the glass has been dragging in the seal real, real bad.
Looks like it needed lubed for long time.
Lubing the seals with spray silicone regularly, helps avoid this.
You have to do the lube long before it gets slow and draggy though.
Most of these that I see have the glass jumped out of the seal groove down inside the door, then when you raise it it tries to go between the rubber and the steel until it jams at the mirror area. Glass pitches forward as it binds by the mirror area. Spreads the track out if someone keeps jamming it, and can screw up the regulator.
Doing the adjustments outlined in the appropriate bulletin helps with this one, after replacing whatever parts got damaged.
HTH
Re: Driver Side Window issue (replaced regulator and motor)
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...NT+DOOR+WINDOW
11 is the glass run channel seal (the rubber seal) LF door (drivers door).
(The main part you needed, apparently, not including the damaged regulator or any other damaged parts.)
9 and 10 are the steel tracks that the seal fits into down inside the door. They are steel, no rubber at all. Replace only if damaged.
Just gonna SWAG here, your seal looks all bunched up like the glass has been trying to bring it up out of the door and wad it up.
Like the glass has been dragging in the seal real, real bad.
Looks like it needed lubed for long time.
Lubing the seals with spray silicone regularly, helps avoid this.
You have to do the lube long before it gets slow and draggy though.
Most of these that I see have the glass jumped out of the seal groove down inside the door, then when you raise it it tries to go between the rubber and the steel until it jams at the mirror area. Glass pitches forward as it binds by the mirror area. Spreads the track out if someone keeps jamming it, and can screw up the regulator.
Doing the adjustments outlined in the appropriate bulletin helps with this one, after replacing whatever parts got damaged.
HTH
11 is the glass run channel seal (the rubber seal) LF door (drivers door).
(The main part you needed, apparently, not including the damaged regulator or any other damaged parts.)
9 and 10 are the steel tracks that the seal fits into down inside the door. They are steel, no rubber at all. Replace only if damaged.
Just gonna SWAG here, your seal looks all bunched up like the glass has been trying to bring it up out of the door and wad it up.
Like the glass has been dragging in the seal real, real bad.
Looks like it needed lubed for long time.
Lubing the seals with spray silicone regularly, helps avoid this.
You have to do the lube long before it gets slow and draggy though.
Most of these that I see have the glass jumped out of the seal groove down inside the door, then when you raise it it tries to go between the rubber and the steel until it jams at the mirror area. Glass pitches forward as it binds by the mirror area. Spreads the track out if someone keeps jamming it, and can screw up the regulator.
Doing the adjustments outlined in the appropriate bulletin helps with this one, after replacing whatever parts got damaged.
HTH
I ordered the new regulator, when I install it, I'll take a better look at the steel and the rubber sash. I really don't want to replace the rubber weatherstripping at all but if i need to then it is what it is.
I'll probably try to get away with just the regulator/motor set up again. lube all the tracks really well with spray silicone and see what happens. The window weatherstripping looks fine other then the part I showed you in the picture above.
Let me know what you think.
Thanks,
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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Re: Driver Side Window issue (replaced regulator and motor)
Did you ever replace the run channel seal?
Re: Driver Side Window issue (replaced regulator and motor)
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 










Re: Driver Side Window issue (replaced regulator and motor)
Should save you from doing a **THIRD** regulator too soon.
But it can't fix the broken one you have now.
HTH
But it can't fix the broken one you have now.
HTH
Re: Driver Side Window issue (replaced regulator and motor)
Motor/Regulator is getting extremely slow again and I really dont want to have to get a 3rd one already so I'm going to bite the bullet and pray that getting the new glass run channel will fix my issue. Can i get this one?
^Warranty voider
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Re: Driver Side Window issue (replaced regulator and motor)
go oem with parts like this. I bought a hatchback that has an aftermarket driver's side door and glass and regulator. Nothing but issues. Still have the aftermarket door but used OEM regulator motor and glass and have little to no issues. Sometimes it gets caught in the stripping along the top of the door panel so I ripped it out and now no issues at all.
Go with OEM.
Go with OEM.
Re: Driver Side Window issue (replaced regulator and motor)
go oem with parts like this. I bought a hatchback that has an aftermarket driver's side door and glass and regulator. Nothing but issues. Still have the aftermarket door but used OEM regulator motor and glass and have little to no issues. Sometimes it gets caught in the stripping along the top of the door panel so I ripped it out and now no issues at all.
Go with OEM.
Go with OEM.
^Warranty voider
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 821
Likes: 1
From: Gainesville, Your college town is weak.
Rep Power: 223 




Re: Driver Side Window issue (replaced regulator and motor)
have you checked hondaautomotiveparts.com, southbayhonda and others?
well go with the aftermarket then...its not us that have to shell out the money should your aftermarket parts cause any problems.....
well go with the aftermarket then...its not us that have to shell out the money should your aftermarket parts cause any problems.....
Re: Driver Side Window issue (replaced regulator and motor)
Re: Driver Side Window issue (replaced regulator and motor)
I dont mind spending the $50 on the seal for the front window. I just dont want to get it and then somehow realize that I need something else. I've already replaced the regular/motor assembly twice within the last 8 months. It is really a pain in the ***. What else could it even be if its not the weatherstripping?
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 










Re: Driver Side Window issue (replaced regulator and motor)
I dont mind spending the $50 on the seal for the front window. I just dont want to get it and then somehow realize that I need something else. I've already replaced the regular/motor assembly twice within the last 8 months. It is really a pain in the ***. What else could it even be if its not the weatherstripping?
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o I need to spell it out?
