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I'm planning on installing 2 Cerwin Vega 10in Subs with Crossfire Amps. I would like to have a way to turn my subs off when I get to work. How do I do this? What do I need.

 
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Most HIGH END decks have a feature to turn sub on and off OR you can use a heavy duty toggle switch and run it off the power or negative line on the amp, just dont run the positive and negative together or If you are going to use this method id also recommend that you run at least a 15 amp fuse towards the toggle switch. Easy DIY.

 
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Also since your installing 2 subs, run 4 guage from your battery(put a fuse by your battery, at least a 60 amp) and have a atleast a 2 fused distributer block with 2 8 guage outlets. Better to be safe than sorry. if your using 2 amps you better be using 3 fuses all together.

 
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Well, honestly, I don't know about the other people but the absolute easiet way would be to put a switch on the turn-on lead. It's the wire that turns on your amp, typically blue. Just get any old switch for it.. only about 200mA go through, I'm not positive, but it's not much.

 
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the absolute easiest way would be to get an amp with a gain control, aka juice boost, and just turn the bass down with the little ****. you can mount the switch somewhere in or under your dash.

 
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The easiest way is with a switch wired to the remote lead, IF the HU doesnt have a sub control on it. As far as the 3 fuses, thats really pointless. An inline fuse installed within 18 inches of your battery on your power cable is all you need. I run 3 amps in my car, sometimes 4 when switching configurations; all off 1 fuse.

Just look in the manual for the amp to find out what ampre fuse you need. If you have more than one amp, just upgrade the ampres of the fuse.

 
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Your FUKING nuts 1 fuse for 3 amps? Im a certified installer, thats my job, IN SCHOOL THEY TEACH YOU IN THE FIRST WEEK.......PROTECTION.....! every amp have its seperate fuse........sure you could get away with using 1, but isd half ***, do your **** right!
I Am also a judge at My car audio shops yearly Sound Off. 10 points is install safety.

IF you have 4 amps and 1 fuse, the 10 points you lost could seperate you from 1st place to 15th place.

a high performance Sound system requires Safety, Just as a high performance vehicle requires a roll cage.................same thing..............safety, itll save your *** one day trust me

 
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How is it half assed? If you blow the fuse at the battery, it cuts the current off. Having one by the amp wouldent benefit you in that case, since no current would be reaching the amps.

Great to know you're a certified installer. Guess what? Best Buy installers are MECP certified too, and most of them don't know anything. Theres a little saying about those that have to show their knowledge with a peice of paper than with actual experience or helpful advice..... And I would hope that at your shop you would never use a toggle switch on an amp ground or power wire to switch it on and off. If you use a 15 amp fuse on the power wire to the toggle switch that means the amp can't ever have more than 15 amps. Most amps require a hell of a lot more current than 15 amps; not to mention you would blow that fuse all the time.

 
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having one fuse closer to the battery is much safer than having 1 fuse for each amp further down the line. if thier was a short, only 18 inches of the wire would be allowed to heat up and possible ignite its insulation and surrounding material rather then letting the whole run up until the multiple fuses closer to the amp

 
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Thanks, very helpful.

 
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out of curiosity, what do your fancy schools tell you about safety, when the fuse at the battery is there to protect yoru wiring? one amp, three amplifeirs, 40 amplifiers, one power wire.

that fuse up front doesnt protect your equipment, it protects the car.

one fuse.

no SQ competition i have been to has docked any points for a person having one fuse for one power wire. in fact, thats applauded. the only person who got docked for safety was the gy running an additional yellowtop in his trunk with NO fuse.

but seriously, you have one batter, one power wire, three amplifiers. your supposed ot use THREE fuses under the hood? yoru supposed to use three separate power wires? im curious, could you please tell me what yoru isntaller school told you was proper procedure?

 
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At my shop standard procedure is as follows.....................


1 amp - 1 fuse under hood

2 amps- 1 fuse under hood, with a 2 fused DISTRIBUTION BLOCK, normally mounted within 18 inch's from apms.

3 amps- 1 fuse under hood, with a 3 fused distributor block.

THIS IS STANDARD PROCEDURE

I am a authorized distributor of RF, ALL MY WIRING COMES FROM ROCKFORD FOSGATE

THE DUAL AMP KIT HAS A TOTAL OF 3 FUSES JUST LIKE I SAID

HERES A LINK FOR YOU TO LEARN http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...=0&cc=01&avf=N


I MAKE A LIVING OFF KIDS THAT DO HORRIBLE INSTALLS, AND ARE IN THE SHOP BUYING A NEW AMP EVERY MONTH BECAUSE THEY FRIED IT.

 
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hey dizzle, ever notice you spend more writing time talking about yrouself than the actual information?

did you take the time to read mystic's post? because its nearly identical to yours. 1 fuse at teh battery.

then you come back with saying you shoudl use three fuses? after he said one fuse at the battery? yoru implying we shoudl have three fuses at the battery!

furthermore, the vast majority cof components nowadasy come with onboard fuses to protect the equipment! the fact is, its not absolutely neccesary, for safety, to run a fuse on every component.

let me ask you this, you do video systems at yrou shop? amplifiers come with onboard fuses, but you say that it is very important to add another fuse inline.

video system has dvd player, fm modulator, screen brain, screen itself, and modulator/transmittor for the wireless headphones. and thats only a basic system. do you guys fuse EVERYTHING separately? they come with their own onboard fuses, just like amplifiers, but ill bet you dont throw in a d block and have another fuse for each separate piece of equipment!

but seriously dizzle, you are extremely rude and harsh, and I would appreciate it if you change your attitude, you are treating a moderator here like he is a punk kid, when he is displaing more knowledge than you are. if you want to earn some respect here, then display knowledge, dont huff all mighty about your job. and if you dont care abotu respect here, then post on another forum. you will not be missed.

and ill bet $10 you dont even read this whole post.

edit: i suggest when you dont have recourse to my knowledge, because you dont, to start by insulting my lack of typing skills. its usually where people start, when they cant prove solid and true information incorrect.

 
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What?

Most heavy duty toggle switches run off 15-20 amps http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...5Fid=275%2D709
I use this mainly for MARINE use. all though I have never had any one ask me to do one on a vehicle
If you used a fused bigger than this you would cancel out the point of having a fuse.

 
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Whats this about !!!!!! Just tryin to help.

 
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its about you being extreemly rude to mystic, who is a moderator of this forum, when the bulk of what he said was that its important to put a fuse close to the battery. you attacked him, rather than the information he gave, and spent more time posting your qualifications rather than actual useful information. the information you did give was muddy and unclear..... connect it to what you contradicted with mystic and it seemed what you were saying was more than foolish. yoru brash manner and insulting attitude combined with the lack of any useful or purposeful information prompted me to reply.

and that is what this is about. If you are genuinely trying to help, I and others agree that the most useful way to be helpful is to display actual information and knowledge, rather than boast of paper certificates and personal achievements.

 
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DPDT Type, Center-Off, Contacts rated 20 Amps 125 VAC, 10 Amps 250 VAC. 15/32" long bushing has 15/32" thread and screw terminals. Supplied with hex mounting nut and round knurled face nut. UL Listed, CSA Certified.

last time i checked, the wire that were all arguing about how to be fused carried ~12-14 volts of DC current

 
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The same company offers the same thing in DC current. I have ONLY used these on Boats, Which some have generators.

 
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grenlock, is this about switching the remote lead? because if it is, all thats required would be a low current SPST switch, but its gotten kinda fuzzy what the switch will be used for, there were many reccommendations on what to switch for the amplifiers....

ar eyou still talking about the remote wire?

 
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nope, he suggested using that switch on either the line from the battery or the ground line

 
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preferably ground

 
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why not the remote again? i missed the reason why power would be a batter place to switch than remote?

 
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i mentioned using a remote gain in one of the first posts... nobody ever listens to me

 
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yep, wingswest, thats why i never mentioned it. i agree with you all the way!

 
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#1 That's the first thing i was taught in sex-ed if i recall....not sure though, high school was 6 yrs ago


#2 Certification...wow you are so cool, why don't you send me a fax of your certification so i can roll it and smoke it tonight for some fun

#3 I'm sorry I must ask....why is it that in your members ride section with all the pics of your car.......are the subs tilted off center.........maybe i should go out and buy my own certification papers to smoke, because yours are all up in smoke..........certified installer who can't screw subs in upright.............I'm not certified but i know the difference between straight and level, and to lazy to complete a simple task

 
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OK, this is thread has moved to the point where it's no longer about the original topic, and Brwnvato should have his answer now. If he doesnt, he is free to start a new thread with the same question. DIZZLE, thank you for your PM to me.

*Locked*

 
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damn, i wish i wasnt out of town for this one, woulda had fun