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Ok i am a senior in high school, and i have woodshop i need to build somethin so i figured i'm gonna work on the car. Well i want to start buildin a sub enclosure, but i don't want a box. I want the subs amps cap all that, i want it build into the floor like so the sups face upward. I have no idea how to even start this project. So if somebody knows what i'm takin about and has some advice to lend me. please do so. I'll try to find a pic to explain what i mean

 
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theres a DIY, check up on that!

 
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yes...... the DIY has all the steps and info you will need.....

 
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one thing you gotta keep in mind is that when buying the subs mak sure you can mount them verticaly because some say not too, they can blow easier that way. but when done properly it looks and sounds awsome. one little tip is to biuld a plexi glass cover for the subs thats like a little box that sits above it with slits so that you can put things in your trunk and the subs can still move the air

 
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yea true....... or better.... you can build it laying vertically....

Just cut out floor lining, cut a fake wall (about half your trunk), build
a sub box behind the fake wall....... i'm gonna do that..... as soon as i get money for material

 
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there is no subwoofer out there that will blow more easily vertically than horizontally. exceeding mechanical limits is exceeding mechanicla limits. thats independant of woofer position.

 
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actually there are. you just need to think about it. if a subs is naturally laying on it back. then when the cone comes back down it will move farther than needed which can result in blowing. many people that have installed subs in the 7th gen have said this. also when laying on its back the cone naturallly sits at a negative position due to its weight which makes the sound not be as clear. many subs say when you open the box **do not mount subs with cone facing vertically** i know many companies that due this if you really need me to enlighten you.

 
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So then with this line of reasoning in mind, you shouldent mount horizontally either because the weight of the cone will make it sit offcenter and bend the spider, crease the surround, and cause all sorts of other problems, right?

If any company includes a peice of paper like that with their sub, it's BS. Take a sub, set it horizontal, vertical, and upsidedown....the cone wont move. The whole assembly can only move "in" so far, and incase you havent noticed, when a sub plays it moves OUT, hence the term "excursion", it doesnt move in. The resting position of the cone is the same unless you are pushing in on it, no matter what the position of the driver. In theory, in terms of the smallest amounts of weight you could imagine, yes, gravity would have a greater effect on the cone if the sub was laying flat, cone facing up, but that would just make the amp work harder to push it, having no effect on the durability of the sub.....besides, it would be in 100ths of millimeters.

Correct me if i'm wrong, someone?

BTW, perhaps you could "enlighten" us with some brands that include this "warning" with their subs?

I'm not flaming by the way, just informing the uninformed.

-Mystic

 
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rockford high end lines do not the punch series , cadance, fusion, mobile authority, some lightningt but i agree that the papers are bs. most people can't hear the difference, but if you are a true enthusiest you can notice it and know that you don't want to make you amp push something harder than it should

 
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I'm kinda lost, what is the best wat to put the subs then? oh, and the subs don't just go out, they go in and out

 
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mystic has it right. if you trust the manufacturer papers, you shoudl also frust their box specs, the concept of "break in" time, their power ratings, and even their T/S parameters. the fact is, companies cna say whatever the hell they want to. and its not false advertising, they can get away with it.

you dont believe the boss 3000 watt amp is 3000 rms, so why do you believe that because a woofer has a heavy cone and light suspension means it cant fire vertically?

mystic was right, if any subwoofer was truly so weak that it could not fire that way, you couldnt load it horizontal, due to the inevitable possibility of voicecoil rub.

and just because it was written in a manual and some civic drivers say its true, doesnt make it true. theres lots of misinformation out there to be found, its important to separate what is misinformation from the stuff that is without a doubt true.

but reason alone isnt enough to prove something is true. if it was, then you should tell me why I have a pair of 6.5 inch sony xplod 6.5 inch woofers that havent blown after giving them 350 rms. they are rated for like 50 or so rms, and they are 4 years old, so they are at teh end of their life. there shoudl be fatigue failure, there should be mechanical failure, there should be thermal failure. where is reason now?

just like manuals, and word of mouth, reason alone is not good enough for truth either. show me real evidence and i will believe you.

how about one last bit of evidence agasint you? Several months ago i burnt a tempest. it was firing up, and the tempest has WEAK suspension. so did i bottom the woofer out, smash teh former on teh backplate and sieze the woofer? according to your reasoning, thats exactly what should ahve happened!

but after failure analysis from adire, it turns out there was massive TOPPING, not bottoming, meaning the woofer overexurted AGAINST gravity, causing the voice coil to delaminate.

again, your reasoning has defied a law of physics now! shall we denounce sir issac newton and einstien? or should we reevaluate our theory......

or should we do what most poeple do, and not read my post which proves me right and continue to quibble without crossexamining my evidence and shooting it down one piece at a time? thats what most people do, followed by name calling.......

 
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So ideally you should mount your subs in a zero gravity chamber. then wieght wont be an issue. Screw the sub box...build the antigrave chamber in woodshop..that would get you an A+

 
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different in every car see what works best for you.

its kinda like teh best equipment. everyone knows the best is cadence for amplifiers and JL for subwoof... I mean there is no best! no best!

seriously, the best way to go abotu it is to put a speaker in yrou trunk and listen to some music, and go with what you like the best, each position will sound different, and other modifications can greatly affect response as well besides woofer position and box design, like whether or not you run 6x9's, how sealed up yrou trunk is, how much air cna flow between teh trunk and the cabin, the list goes on and on!

 
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white rabbit you say you don't want to flame but thats all you do. you cant act like you are god. you act like you know everything but then again you sited that i was right in some cases. i think you should just take a midol and chill out. and as for proff i would show you some but i live in az . if you really feel the need just email a company that makes subs for home theather like m&k and have another professional tell you what i told you. but then again everyone has the right to think what they want

 
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Will my subs blow if i drive uphill?

[q]but if you are a true enthusiest you can notice it and know that you don't want to make you amp push something harder than it should[/q]

The reason you say you can hear the difference is because subs DO sound different aimed upwards just because of how they resonate.

Also your amp doesn't have sensors saying how hard it should push something. if you grab your sub cone and push it in while your amp is feeding it 400 watts. the amp will feed it 400 watts constantly, will not put any more strain on your amp, will not change impedance, nothing. What will suffer is the sub.

Now i'm off to measure the atmospheric pressure on my trunk mounted barometer. The manual for my subs said i shouldn't play them when teh pressure is above 810 Pa.

 
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lol

 
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You know you can say that WR flames people or whatever...but you have to realize that he has helped many people on this site with questions and problems that most people would not have cared to answer. What I have noticed with WR is that he usually gives a thorough, thought out answer when a question is asked...but when people keep asking the same questions over and over without doing a search he will give a short, vague answer...and who can blame him for that? Just type in his name in a search and see how many times his name comes up in thread topics that say " Help... White Rabbit," and then you will understand that his "way" is appreciated on this site. I think there is nothing wrong with voicing you own opinion as long as it doesn't insult anyone else.

 
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I work for an audio manufacturor. It does not matter what angle a subwoofer is mounted. It makes absolutely no difference to the subs suspension, cone or anything else.

You will probably notice that in our cars that you will not get as much spl if the subs are fired up but anything that you can build for your car while in school is pretty sweet in my opinion. Do it up.

 
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i plan to do this real soon, and my question is will the sub bottom out with the dimentions of the custom trunk diy? i have 2 12" RF Punch XLC's

 
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depends on how big you make the box and how much power you are running. box (if you read the thread directly above this reply) you will learn does not have an affect on it.