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Ok so I need a solution to this cause I dunno what to do. I replaced the deck in my car and I could hear alternator whine through my speakers, not bad, but it was there, now I hooked up at V-afc and the damn whine got a lot louder through the speakers. What do I need to do to fix that if anything can be done.

 
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Are all the power/rca cables running down separate sides of the car?

Maybe the V-afc is placed close to the RCAs?

 
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Another good idea is to run the ground of the radio to the amps in the back. Same grounds equal less resistance.

 
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Nope the grounds are different and the wires for the v-afc are far away from the deck and or the RCA's but i mean i had the whine after I put the deck in as well so i'm kind of at a loss and I'm not even running a powerful system let alone one at all all I have is my new deck

 
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I would start at making your grounds all the same.

 
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I dunno if I can or should ground my stereo and V-AFC to the same ground. The wiring on the V-afc is kind of nuts and well I don't want to fry anything in my car. But any idea of how to do it would be appreciated [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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what is v-afc anyway

 
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i think grounding everything at the same location is a bit drastic at this point, but its true there is a grounding problem. for sure reground your radio and make sure its solid, the same with your vtec controller, alternator whine is perhaps one of the most notorius of stereo problems, even shops will make you sign a waiver saying its not their fault and will charge by the hour to fix, if its even fixable...

 
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We use to tell people, oh that's extra that is the audible tachometer. As a rule of thumb I usually try to run a ground wire from the radio to any amps while I'm doing the remote turn on, makes things a bit easier than doing it later.

 
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longer wire = more resistance [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG][IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/IMG]

 
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Much less resistance in a wire than an entire car length of metal. Therefor much less resistance. This is where ground problems come from, you won't find very many pro systems that aren't done in this way.

 
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im not saying anything against how the pros do it, but the larger your metal is, the less resistance it has. the vehicle ground can move far more current than that small wire ever will be able to, the ground resistance should be significantly greater when the current has to travel from teh frame in the front of teh vehicle all the way to the back, then down that wire.

could always just use a larger wire and ground behind teh dash if resistance is really the problem... id be willing to bet money that its more of a resistance problem with the actuall ground connection back there, tho....

 
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ok so basically if i'm getting this right pull my radio out and either disconnect my current ground and instead run the ground to the nearest part of the chasis that I can? Am I right about that White Rabbit? if not tell me a better way to fix it.

FYI: the V-AFC is a v-tech and air flow controller/convertor.

 
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what i personally would do in your place is to try to find a good ground. you can modify your existing ground to make it better, but thats the easiest way to go. before putting everything back in, id test (make sure the car is on!) to see if your getting any more noise. i fyou are, id then try a different ground. if that didnt work, why not make the grounds the same as the amps? couldnt hurt, its just alot of work that could be avoided and still solved.

 
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i think abstract is gonna make me eat my words in a second, but id still try to see if ground resistance is the problem......

 
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LOL, no I'm not one of those guys. I would agree the first place to check is that the ground you used is good, bare metal, not just a tapped screw.

 
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Thanks to both of you guys for your help. I'm gonna pull my radio this weekend and then try that, I'll let you know what happens

 
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Make your grounds as short as possible and run all your power and rca jacks down different sides of the car.