Rep Power: 0

Hi guys. New guy here, and I'm buying the '01 LX coupe I have from a friend of a friend. It's mechanically sound but it needs a lot of TLC. One issue I am not certain of involves the power locks along with the driver side lock system. The lock switch on the driver door works, if I press it up or down, I can hear the actuator trying to function in the door as well as hear the relay under the dash, and i can see a minuscule amount of movement in the lock ****. However, neither side locks or unlocks, and I hear nothing from the passenger door.

I can lock/unlock the door with the key regardless of door status, but if I want to manually lock/unlock the driver side door, I have to either shut the door, or pull the interior handle. The passenger door can be locked/unlocked manually regardless.

I'm thinking it could just be the door lock actuator is messed up, but it's hard to say since I have very little experience with them. If it's got a mechanical aspect to it, I'm thinking that could have failed, along with sending current to the passenger actuator. Hopefully one or more of you have had this issue or knew someone who did and have a solution for it. Thanks in advance!

 
Rep Power: 174

When my driver's side actuator kicked the bucket, my passenger's side locks still worked, albeit a little strangely. Since my car could still "sense" the position of the lock with the bad actuator, my passenger's side would move to match the position of the other one. If they were both in the same position, it wouldn't move. That's how I determined that it was just an actuator and not another electrical thing.
You could try testing the auto locks like that, and you could also check the flexible area where the electrical cables exit the car and enter the door. Sometimes they get disconnected!

 
Rep Power: 0

Okay, so I tried the first you suggested, and it didn't change anything. I did note that the passenger side *does* in fact make noise, but it's faint, faint enough I can only hear it when I toggle the switch up to unlock.

Checking the bundle between the door and car will be harder since it will require removal of various panels if I wish to see and inspect the entire deal. That may just have to wait a few weekends since I've got stuff planned for the next few. I'll be able to report back with my findings then.

 
Rep Power: 518

This is normal and correct. You can pull the outside handle too.
It's explained in your owners manual.





And, weak power lock actuators are common.

 
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Yes, I am aware of this now, but the previous owner was not, nor was I initially.

This is what I am trying to figure out. I am not certain it is the actuator alone. The driver side lock **** will not remain all the way up or down unless the door is shut. When opened, it sits at about halfway. I would expect it to behave just like any other lock **** by being all the way up or down at all times. This is why I begin to wonder if it's the latch mechanism and not the actuator or something, and of course why I come here asking, because I'm hoping someone else has had this issue or dealt with it.

 
Rep Power: 518

I didn't get that from your first post but I think I understand now.
If the lock mechanism gets jammed at halfway without you manually attempting to lock or unlock it with the door open, then it does sound like a possible internal latch issue.
I think there have been a couple of people posting here that they had to get a latch to solve an issue like that. Seems like an unusual issue.

The latch and actuator can be separated and can be purchased as 2 separate pieces through Honda. You can remove the set from the door, separate them, then check if the latch then works as it should.

You can check power/ground at each actuator connector with a simple test light.


HTH

 
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That's my fault, I failed to even mention it when I meant to.

Any suggestions on a good way to remove the latch? The 3 screws holding it in are quite tight, I tried a few weekends ago to unscrew them with a Philips and even leaning into it they were threatening to cam out. Last thing I want to do is destroy the heads and have to drill them out.

 
Rep Power: 518

Same way you would get the Phillips screws out of the brake rotors:
Impact Driver, with #3 Phillips bit:




At AutoZone

At Sears



And you need a hammer. You don't need links for a hammer, do you?

 
Rep Power: 0

Nah, I have a good hammer.

 
Rep Power: 518

I thought I had a couple good hammers too.....That is, until I read this months Family Handyman magazine. I'm not rushing out to get more though.