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With the help of great DIYs and Crutchfield MasterSheet i succesfully installed an Alpine stereo. Now, i wish to replace the front speakers.

I am confused with the various mounting options :

1. If you buy from Crutchfield, they provide a mounting bracket which none seem to be happy about. I am not adverse on drilling new holes, but many reviewers said the fit is not snug and some used weatherstripping or silicone to prevent vibration.

2. Another member electric130; in his DIY he cut out a MDF base for his aftermarket speaker. Good idea but i dont have a jigsaw or MDF (which i can buy, but)

3. Another member, pried open the plastic housing from the OEM speaker and reused that. Obviously he did not care damaging the OEM speaker but i would wish to keep the OEM one intact (incase i decide to turn back to stock during selling)

So my question is :

A. What is a good bracket/adapter out there for a good fit? As i said, i am not adverse to drilling new holes on the door for the bracket to fit, but if i have to cut tabs, use dampening or what not thats a bit amount of work.

B. Electric130's solution seems to be great, but i am worried about degradation of the MDF to weather conditions down the line.

What would you guys suggest? There are multiple adapters like Sosche or Metra. Crutchfield doesnt sell Sosche. Sonic customer support could not suggest me which Sosche to buy for the 2003 Civic.

 
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I used a metra bracket.
But I had to pry off the door panel plastics.
Minimal drilling.

 
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Well, either way the door panels need to come off. Have you used the same Metra bracket from Crutchfield? How deep is it? Have you experienced any fitment issues.

 
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I just took the entire plastic speaker and plastic thing that encloses it out, leaving just the holes. Then I drilled holes for the new speaker-this could be avoided by using self tapping sheet metal screws.

Depending on the speakers you bought, you may or may not need a spacer to clear the path of the window on it's way down. I did need a spacer because I didn't investigate the depth as much as I did for the rears. Speakers came with DIY spacer template custom to the speaker. Trace the template on 1/2 in sheet of plywood and cut it out with jigsaw. If you don't have one, looks like you're going to have to buy one or you're sol. Luckily they're pretty cheap and come in handy.

 
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So, can the stock speaker be put back to this plastic casing later? OR, in essence it gets destroyed. Also, In this process, i guess you are not drilling any holes on the door body?

For the depth : I should be looking (and measuring) this?

For example, on polk db651s - Bottom-mount Depth (Inches) = 2 5/16

 
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I can't use the quote button for some reason (Chrome?) so bear with me.


---For the depth : I should be looking (and measuring) this?

If you do a lot of searching, someone did find an exact measurement for the depth until you hit window. I remember it being difficult to find though.

---So, can the stock speaker be put back to this plastic casing later? OR, in essence it gets destroyed.

The stock speaker is like part of the plastic casing if I remember right so you remove the entire plastic casting with the speaker inside.

---Also, In this process, i guess you are not drilling any holes on the door body?

Ummm yeah you are UNLESS you use self tapping sheet metal screws (not the ones the speakers come with). The REAR speakers have holes already. The FRONTS mount a special way with the plastic casing for the stock speakers so you need to make new holes to mount aftermarket speakers.

I THINK the front mount depth is between 1.75 and 2 inches. So you'll need around a half inch spacer. With a spacer there is also the possibility you won't be able to get the lip of the speaker area on the plastic door part back over the speaker when you try to reassemble the trim. In this case just cut the lip until it fits with a dremmel tool preferably or even a utility knife might work with some added effort.

Sorry I made this sound complicated. It's not once you see what I'm talking about.

 
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The stock speaker is a special design that slides into place. The plastic is part of the speaker so if you use it for the spacer you destroy the speaker.

I bought the spacers from Amazon, I believe they were Metra but I don't remember the part/model number. If I remember correctly you screw/bolt the speaker to the spacer and then screw/bolt the spacer to the car. I used machine bolts with Loctite so that they would not vibrate loose. They also sell speaker wire adapters to attach the speakers to the factory speaker wire connector. If you plan on destroying the speakers for the mounting rings you could probably make you own connectors using the connector from the original speaker.

I don't remember how much the speaker mounts and wire adapters were but they were more than I expected, my guess is $20 to $25.

 
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THIS ! what i was wondering, that if i have to use that plastic encasing i would be destroying the OEM speakers, which i do not wish to.

Do you remember how was the fitment with the Metra's ? Not many good reviews on the Metra adapter for the 03 Civic.

 
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Yep, i saw the thread which another member had posted with the measurements.

i am not adverse to using sheet metal screws to tap into the body. Not doing the rears now.

Yep, i can visualize what you are saying. But as you said once you dont take things off its hard to understand. What i will be doing is take the panel off and take some basic measurements.

 
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I should elaborate.
The plastic panel will come out, the rear of the grill of the OEM speaker, will have a trim specific for the OEM speaker, which is circular.
It will all make sense when you pull the panel.

I had to break that trim for the speakers to fit properly.
Not a big deal, just went to town with a pair of pliers.

Take a gander for photos in this thread. I used a Metra kit.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...se-advise.html

 
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Thanks a lot Kenny. This is exactly what i was looking for :thumbup.

Your ebay link on that thread (post #17) is broken [obviously because item do not exist]. Did you use this one? http://metraonline.com/part/82-7803 [I got the number from a portion of the ebay URL you had posted]. The picture you posted makes total sense

 
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Yeah, I don't remember which ones. But they should work.

My eBay purchase history doesn't go back as far as when I bought it lol, sorry.

 
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Should be able to keep the stock wiring harness with making some simple jumper wires with female disconnects.. and I used 1/2 inch plywood with self tapping metal screws for my pioneer components, worked great for over 2 years, and I didnt have to trim the door panels at all.