Keyless & Lock Switch fail after stereo stolen
Keyless & Lock Switch fail after stereo stolen
My passenger window was recently smashed and my aftermarket stereo was ripped out of the dash and wires are just hanging out now. Since then my lock button in the car as well my keyless entry remote don't work and even when I lock the driver door manually from the outside none of the other doors lock like they used to.
What do you guys think? Something to do with the wires they tore up in the dash or something else I should look for? Thanks a lot for any guidance.
What do you guys think? Something to do with the wires they tore up in the dash or something else I should look for? Thanks a lot for any guidance.
Re: Keyless & Lock Switch fail after stereo stolen
I just purchased a 2002 for my daughter and it has the same problem (without the missing stereo). I've checked all the fuses. The power lock switch doesn't do anything. When locking with the key, the doors all lock as they should. Only the driver's door unlocks with the key, but I don't know if that's the way it is supposed to work.
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Re: Keyless & Lock Switch fail after stereo stolen
The power lock switch doesn't do anything.
When locking with the key, the doors all lock as they should. Only the driver's door unlocks with the key, but I don't know if that's the way it is supposed to work.
All doors lock when you push down
the lock tab on the driver’s door, or
lock the driver’s door from the
outside with the key. Only the driver’s
door unlocks when you use the key
or lock tab. To unlock the passengers’
doors, use the master door lock
switch or the lock tab on each door.
The owners manual is a handy little item.
ALSO:
Go to the Honda website ("ownerlink" area) and register as the new owner of this car. Make sure all recalls have been completed. You can call the customer assistance hotline and do the same thing too.
http://automobiles.honda.com/informa...resources.aspx
HTH
Re: Keyless & Lock Switch fail after stereo stolen
Thanks for the link. The previous owner still had the invite to the new car purchaser party at the Honda dealership, but didn't have the owners manual.
From what I've found, it sounds like the driver's side switches are a weak link.
From what I've found, it sounds like the driver's side switches are a weak link.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
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Re: Keyless & Lock Switch fail after stereo stolen
Pull the inside handle and switch off of the drivers door and see if it is simply unplugged.
If you find it still plugged in, you can unplug it and test....
You can use a paper clip to bridge wires in that plug:
Center wire (black) to white/blue should make them lock.
Center wire (black) to white/green should make them unlock.
If you can manually make them actuate this way, then the switch must be bad.
If you find it still plugged in, you can unplug it and test....
You can use a paper clip to bridge wires in that plug:
Center wire (black) to white/blue should make them lock.
Center wire (black) to white/green should make them unlock.
If you can manually make them actuate this way, then the switch must be bad.
Re: Keyless & Lock Switch fail after stereo stolen
I tried jumping the wires and the locks did not work. There used to be an alarm that was tapped into the power door locks where the wires come into the footwell from the driver's door. Both those wires have 12v but there is no connectivity between those wires and the switch. Using a long jumper wire, I was able to activate the locks by grounding them to the black wire in the door.
It seems odd to me that I would lose connectivity to two hot wires without it causing a short. Is there a connector or something inside the door that may have come undone? I couldn't see anything.
It seems odd to me that I would lose connectivity to two hot wires without it causing a short. Is there a connector or something inside the door that may have come undone? I couldn't see anything.
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Re: Keyless & Lock Switch fail after stereo stolen
The positive voltage measured is used as a trigger. There is no significant amperage flowing on it.
Grounding either of those 2 wires cannot blow a fuse by itself: You ground it and the C.U. activates the lock motors through electronics and relays.
My guess is someone cut them so they could hook up the aftermarket unit (and eliminate the switch on the door panel), if I understood your post.
Humans can cause some troubleshooting nightmares, for sure.
I'd expect someone tapped into the door harness where it comes in above the kick panel......but it really could be anywhere those wires run.
Grounding either of those 2 wires cannot blow a fuse by itself: You ground it and the C.U. activates the lock motors through electronics and relays.
My guess is someone cut them so they could hook up the aftermarket unit (and eliminate the switch on the door panel), if I understood your post.
Humans can cause some troubleshooting nightmares, for sure.
I'd expect someone tapped into the door harness where it comes in above the kick panel......but it really could be anywhere those wires run.
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