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I was trying to figure out why my AC stop blowing cold. The condensor fan is running, the AC low side port is at 50psi @ ambient temperature 106 degrees, (Dallas, TX)and I could hear the AC clutch turning when I press the AC button.

I also have an air temp gauge at the vents and it's blowing at 75 to 80 degrees. Still sweating...

While I was trying to figure out why my AC isnt blowing so cold, I found these. What are they and where does it plug up to?





Please advise me on this repair.

thanks

 
Rep Power: 218

I know this is gonna sound stupid, but for the a/c, did you get the system recharged? I don't know what those wires are though. Sorry I couldn't really be of much help. I figure it's better to start with the obvious and then work up to the more complex.

 
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It was actually working just fine yesterday. I bought a refill kit at autozone but right when i was about to recharge, it was already at 50psi and I didn't want to overcharge it. The fins on the condensor looks good from the middle to top but the bottom looks kind of beat from road debris.

 
Rep Power: 813

um well that is very interesting. the blue wire plug is for the vtec solenoid, and the other white connector is for the oil pressure switch. i say interesting because these are required to be hooked up for the engine to operate properly. also strange is you seem to have an LX from the header setup and not an EX with vtec. seems like someone swapped in an EX engine into your LX and didnt bother to actually hook up the vtec portion to an EX ecu. i bet your engine would run much better with that hooked up. vtec engines can run without the solenoid hooked up but were not designed to do so. its not related to the ac at all, but if you can find an ex ecu and swap it in, then manually run the wiring for the vtec solenoid, you would have an ex vtec engine working.

 
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you need to go to a PRO shop and get it ur AC properly vacuumed, cleaned and refilled.

134a is pretty easily contaminated and you should never do it yourself. (trying to put 134a in urself) a little overcharge could shorten the life of ur compressor.

this happened to me last week when i tried to fill my system with 134a. the needle was still in the green zone but on the higher side.

drove to vegas (i live in Cali) and the compressor froze up on me. cost me 1200 dollars to fix. this was last week. FML.

 
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wow that sounds very interesting... This is my first time ever buying a Honda, I recently just sold my Mr2 turbo to get a daily driver with a back seat for my daughter.

I might just have to bring it to a Honda specialist and have them take a look at it. At idle it's a little shakey not very much, but enough to make my steering wheel shake. It drives perfect and idles at 800-900 rpm.

sl33pyriceboi - That sounds like a better idea. The wierd thing is that it's blowing at 40 degrees this morning. But i'ma just take it to a shop to make sure everything is good.

 
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IF this is a EX motor, wouldn't it require a EX ecu to run it in the first place? I would find it wierd if it's being run by an LX ecu.

 
Rep Power: 813

the main differences with the EX ecu is it includes wire inputs for the oil pressure and vtec solenoid. most of the programming is exactly the same except for slightly different shift points. vtec engine will run okay on an lx ecu, but will run even better with ex ecu. if you look for ex ecu, be sure it exactly matches the type of car you have (year, make, model, and trans type auto or manual). i think 01-03 all had the same ecu except for the trans type, and 04-05 had the same ecu. let me know your exact car info and i can help more. the 04-05 uses different oxygen sensors too.

 
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I have a 2001 Civic LX and it's an auto with powersteering.

 
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They might have just used an ex head, meaning at some point your lx head was probably ruined. If you could look for your engine code, it should be on the front of the engine about 5 inches below where those wires you were concerned about were, it should read either D17A1 or D17a2, and that vtec head wont be running very well without vtec engaging, if you drive it hard, if you never really get above 4400 rpms or so then you probably would never know the difference. As far as your A/C goes, youre running normally, if its 106 degrees out side 76 is the coldest it will get until the air temp goes down 20-30 degrees of cooling is very normal. You should be running at 55 psi, when its that hot outside, so you could add r134a and see if it helps.

 
Rep Power: 236

Not true. I have the same model year and live in the same area and I had to turn my A/C down halfway home today.

 
Rep Power: 813

depends on car color too. if you have dark car, its near impossible for the a/c to cool the car on a hot day. dark colors absorb tons of heat so by the time the cold air makes its way thru the vents, its already warm.

 
Rep Power: 236

lol. I have a black on black EX (sunroof)

 
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Mine is red, today was about 104 degrees and my vents were blowing at 50-55 degrees. It's working normally now, so I'm happy.

I'll look at the engine code tomorrow since my kid cries if I step 10 feet away from her. lol sigh...

 
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I the codes on my block says D17A1 and on my head it looks like a SOHC with code 010109256 on it.

 
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well that makes sense as long as you had it on recirculate, the air will initially get only to 76 because it can only cool 30 degrees at a time so as the air inside the car cools the a/c can cool it further until the air reaches a comfortable temperature, if that makes sense.

Well you have your factory block, so at some point they had to replace your head and used a d17a2 head, like i said before if you never really get above 4400 rpms or so youll never really know the difference.

 
Rep Power: 813

just look for ex ecu and then you can wire up the vtec.

 
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im going to take out the stock intake system and see if the harness is there to plug up if not i might try and find an EX harness and ECU. Thank you for all the support guys.