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I posted a DIY a longggggg time ago. But ive been getting Emails, etc etc on how i did it.

try this link
original post

You need to caulk all the inside edges after putting them together. For your floorboard, take the piece of cardboard that is your floorbaord right now, and trace it onto MDF. Then you need to construct a box that the subs will "sit in". the dimensions of each piece of the box are avaialable at that site above

To insulate, I use cotton clothing stuffer avaialable at your local craft store or material/sewing store. I also put it under the box, so that no piece of wood touches metal, to reduce any rattling or moving/shifting of the box.

Youll need one sheet of MDF, available at Lowe's. I suggest 3/4in, but you could go with 1/2inch. It depends how sturdy, and how tight you want your bass. Its about 20-25 bucks for a huuuuuge sheet. Just get the good stuff the first time.

To insulate the edges, you can use standard bath caulk, or kitchen and bath silicone. You want this to be AIRTIGHT, so that each sub hits on their own.

I used 3/4in wood screws to put it together.

The SQ will be very high, if you take your time. Also, go to crutchfield.com, find the subs you have, and check what they recommend the air space be. You can adjust and fine tune the amount of FREE AIR in side each section, to best fit your subs.

Hope this information was useful!

EDIT: Today i was asked what to do if you have 15's, and they are a lot "deeper" and wont fit in a 12" sub setup. Well its easy. The "sides" of the box that subs "sit in" need to be raised, or the height needs to be ^^. so i would suggest finding out the EXACT top mount depth of your sub, then leave about 1.5-2 inches of free space between the magnet and the bottom of the box. Also, you might need to make the "front" and "back" of the box longer, to fit tighter in the part where your Tire used to be. Obviously because 15's are wider than 12's. I hope this helped, just remember...TAKE YOUR TIME!

Cheers
Branden

Any other questions ? Mail me at brandenwym44@yahoo.com, or civicballer44 on AIM

 
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WOW thanks man!
get well![IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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a suggestion on sealing the sub enclosure. i would still caulk it, but after caulking, you can spray it with spray-in bedliner (available at most auto parts stores $10-$25) to give you a more airtight seal, then carpet it.

 
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can u use a store bought box too?

 
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not for a custom trunk setup..then it wouldn't be custom now would it [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

Cheers
Mohawk

 
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2k2civicballer.........THANK YOU.......you helped me grips,.....
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i dont even know what i was talking about, im just dumb....but does this kind of box make a difference with the sound at all like make it less deep. Would it be worth it to do it with 1 solo baric 12" or would i be better off using a big ported box

 
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no....I dont think solobaric are ported,,,,,Im pretty positive.
My JL require small sealed....thats what the solo requires I believe.
If I were you I'd do it. Not ported.
My system w/ this box thumps SOOO hard,.......I don't even bump it that loud......maybee to show somone every once ina while...but hardly ever......Its a good design....go for it.[IMG]i/expressions/beer_yum.gif[/IMG][IMG]i/expressions/beer_yum.gif[/IMG][IMG]i/expressions/beer_yum.gif[/IMG][IMG]i/expressions/beer_yum.gif[/IMG]

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The square solobaric subs can be ported or sealed, there old one's (round) i think are just sealed. I have two 2002 12" square solobarics--Im in the prosses of building my ported box's- i have to build two because of our trunk design

Check out www.kicker.com if u need info on these subs

 
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Don't do ported.......do sealed.....you get the same bass sound except its tighter, it really punches and it sounds alot louder