HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR 14volts 220 amps
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HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR 14volts 220 amps
made by Stinger AAMP of America.
Beautifull piece, comes complete with mounting kit, custom bracket and instructions.
A must for high energy demand.
About $650 - $700 retail.
I'll be installing on monday.
Pictures will follow soon.
Beautifull piece, comes complete with mounting kit, custom bracket and instructions.
A must for high energy demand.
About $650 - $700 retail.
I'll be installing on monday.
Pictures will follow soon.
Last edited by supermex; Jul 1, 2007 at 09:09 AM.
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That's a lot of voltage lol! How does the voltage regulator work on this model? I've wanted to do this but never could find a good way to combine the load on the ELD with that of the aftermarket stuff hooked directly to the batt. This could be very interesting.
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Not realy sure how it works but this model is made specificaly for our cars.
I'll try to get the manufacturer to log in on this forum so they can answer any questions.
I'm concern as well cause is going into my car
I have 3 fans
2 fuel pumps
2 batteries
3 sets of neons
1000 w amp
and many other electronics
What's ELD?
I belive the regulator is inside the alternator.
Am i wrong?
I'll try to get the manufacturer to log in on this forum so they can answer any questions.
I'm concern as well cause is going into my car
I have 3 fans
2 fuel pumps
2 batteries
3 sets of neons
1000 w amp
and many other electronics
What's ELD?
I belive the regulator is inside the alternator.
Am i wrong?
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From: Temecula, CA
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Meet your ELD - Electrical Load Detector
That post has a real good run down of what the ELD does. Current from the battery flows into the fusebox and thru the ELD and out to the car. The ELD converts that current flow and communicates with the alternator to let it know how much to output to run those accessories and charge the batt.
Any thing you hook up directly to your battery(ies) positive terminal bypasses the ELD and isn't compensated for by the alternator. I think this is a main reason some of the alternator "upgrades" that have been attempted by forum members have ended up not working out that great. The alt is added to be able to run the system but nothing from the system is seen by the alternator.
In my head I've been thinking about adding hall effect current sensors (like picture C) to the power wires for the audio system and finding a way to convert that and add it to the signal from the ELD going to the alternator.
I'm not sure if any of that is easily realizable but it should be possible.
That post has a real good run down of what the ELD does. Current from the battery flows into the fusebox and thru the ELD and out to the car. The ELD converts that current flow and communicates with the alternator to let it know how much to output to run those accessories and charge the batt.
Any thing you hook up directly to your battery(ies) positive terminal bypasses the ELD and isn't compensated for by the alternator. I think this is a main reason some of the alternator "upgrades" that have been attempted by forum members have ended up not working out that great. The alt is added to be able to run the system but nothing from the system is seen by the alternator.
In my head I've been thinking about adding hall effect current sensors (like picture C) to the power wires for the audio system and finding a way to convert that and add it to the signal from the ELD going to the alternator.
I'm not sure if any of that is easily realizable but it should be possible.
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Good info!
Question
If I install this alternator will it burn the ELD or something else?
Will I really benefit from it?
How about installing two batteries an a Relay/ battery isolator
let one battery take all the load when sound system and neons when tha car is not running?
So when the car is running the alternator only charges one battery at the time?
Question
If I install this alternator will it burn the ELD or something else?
Will I really benefit from it?
How about installing two batteries an a Relay/ battery isolator
let one battery take all the load when sound system and neons when tha car is not running?
So when the car is running the alternator only charges one battery at the time?
Last edited by supermex; Jun 30, 2007 at 04:50 PM.
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I wouldn't expect it to if everything is installed correctly.
This is a real good idea for you, I think it is going to depend on exactly what you want to do. The problem is making sure both batteries do stay charged. If you only plan on using one batt when the car is off, make it a deep cycle, and you won't have to worry as much about it.
This is the hardest question. If you go with a two batt setup using an isolator you need to make sure the alt will charge the batt that is hooked up at any particular time. Which goes back to the ELD issue. It will be important for the installer to understand exactly what you want to do and what needs to be done for these batts to get correctly charged.
This is the hardest question. If you go with a two batt setup using an isolator you need to make sure the alt will charge the batt that is hooked up at any particular time. Which goes back to the ELD issue. It will be important for the installer to understand exactly what you want to do and what needs to be done for these batts to get correctly charged.
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I have an Optima yellow and a dry cell Stinger.
I'll let my mechanic install the alternator and an Audio install company install the isolator.
I belive my sound system is set up to work with the Stinger battery with a capacitor.
the Optima will run all the other car and engine functions.
Thanks for the usefull information.
I'll mention the audio installer the issue with the ELD and see what they recomend
I'll let my mechanic install the alternator and an Audio install company install the isolator.
I belive my sound system is set up to work with the Stinger battery with a capacitor.
the Optima will run all the other car and engine functions.
Thanks for the usefull information.
I'll mention the audio installer the issue with the ELD and see what they recomend
Last edited by supermex; Jun 30, 2007 at 05:29 PM.
I wil fix vBPlaza today
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dude awesome, hope the install all goes well... btw.. u are still one of my top 5 favo civics. geeze... crap i forget what hood u had..
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From: Kissimmee, Florida, US
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This is the hardest question. If you go with a two batt setup using an isolator you need to make sure the alt will charge the batt that is hooked up at any particular time. Which goes back to the ELD issue. It will be important for the installer to understand exactly what you want to do and what needs to be done for these batts to get correctly charged.
When the ignition is off only one battery is in use.
When the car is on, the ignition send a signal to the isolator and both batties get charged.
But since only one was used it only takes the load of one and keeps the other fully charge at all times.
Last edited by supermex; Jun 30, 2007 at 06:32 PM.
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I was j/k when I said: I wasn't really expecting him to put a 220V alternator in his car. But everything else I stated about the ELD, current draw of the system, etc. remains true.
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This information is very usefull to me.
I'm glad I posted this thread.
Do you guys know the courent amps/volts from our stock alternator?
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Just got done with install of the alt.
It took most of the day.
One of the turbo charge pipes pipes that goes to the intercooler was on the way of the custom bracket.
So, we had to modifed that bracket, plus the tenioner bracket and bolt.
It was pain on the a$$
If it wasn't for that problem it would of being an easy plug and play install.
All and all we got it running.
And, I get no more that 12.3 volts read out on the volt gauge.
I'll go to the audio installer tomorrow and see what they suggest.
The car and audio is working fine anyway.
My other alt. was shoot.
It took most of the day.
One of the turbo charge pipes pipes that goes to the intercooler was on the way of the custom bracket.
So, we had to modifed that bracket, plus the tenioner bracket and bolt.
It was pain on the a$$
If it wasn't for that problem it would of being an easy plug and play install.
All and all we got it running.
And, I get no more that 12.3 volts read out on the volt gauge.
I'll go to the audio installer tomorrow and see what they suggest.
The car and audio is working fine anyway.
My other alt. was shoot.
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No install pics, i had my hands full.
Below is the link to aamp of america/ stinger
Browse thier website for a dealer near you
http://stingerelectronics.com/dealer.asp
The pullies are not a problem.
Only one belt runs your alt to the crank pulley
The stiring and the timing pulleys had nothig to do with the install
They give you the belt model needed that will fit straight into your set up
Below is the link to aamp of america/ stinger
Browse thier website for a dealer near you
http://stingerelectronics.com/dealer.asp
The pullies are not a problem.
Only one belt runs your alt to the crank pulley
The stiring and the timing pulleys had nothig to do with the install
They give you the belt model needed that will fit straight into your set up
Last edited by supermex; Jul 3, 2007 at 07:41 AM.
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Alright:
I was at the audio install place today, theyare telling me that all I need to do is to send a positive 0 gauge cable from the atl to the battery.
I'm working on it now
I was at the audio install place today, theyare telling me that all I need to do is to send a positive 0 gauge cable from the atl to the battery.
I'm working on it now
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SUCCESS!
Just got done and it works.
The gauge from the ignition system still reads 12.2-13.0 v
But the gauges from the batteries and capacitor read 14.3- 14.5 v
The batt. relay only alouds me to use one battery when car is off..
All audio and accesories are plug in to this one battery.
The other is fully charge at all times
Then the alternator is not always charging two low batteries.
I also install the in car battery charger that plugs into the wall to the accesory battery so I can use that at shows when the audio is running.
I had issues with that unit keeping up with two batteries and accesories running when car was off.
The relay is very usefull
I have to tight the belt some more it squeeks some times.
Other than that is working great.
Too tired now and must take a shower and get some sleep.
happy 4th
Be safe.
Just got done and it works.
The gauge from the ignition system still reads 12.2-13.0 v
But the gauges from the batteries and capacitor read 14.3- 14.5 v
The batt. relay only alouds me to use one battery when car is off..
All audio and accesories are plug in to this one battery.
The other is fully charge at all times
Then the alternator is not always charging two low batteries.
I also install the in car battery charger that plugs into the wall to the accesory battery so I can use that at shows when the audio is running.
I had issues with that unit keeping up with two batteries and accesories running when car was off.
The relay is very usefull
I have to tight the belt some more it squeeks some times.
Other than that is working great.
Too tired now and must take a shower and get some sleep.
happy 4th
Be safe.
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