Rep Power: 251

I just put in an HO112r-W7 enclosure system from jl audio. I installed it in my car and hooked everything up. Everything was the exact same way when i had my 15" memphis hooked up and it hit pretty good. I turned on my deck and was expecting to get blown away but the sub was hardly hitting at all. It moved but very little. it sounded tight like it was in a small sealed box. this box is built by JL audio and its ported so everything is to spec. What i noticed is this might be the probelm. its wired in 3 ohm mono from jl. i have a power acoustik lt980 and when its bridged its in a 4ohm load, unbridged would be 2 ohm. right now i have it briged so its at a 4 ohm load. is this interferring with my sub or is the sub just blown?

I also have a kenwood kac-9102d mono amp that i can hook up but it turns on and off..... either too low of drop in voltage or a bad thermal switch inside because the amp doesnt get hot it just turns on and off at high peak volume. so i could hook this amp up to see. any ideas would be great. thanks guys

 
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Wow nice subwoofer.

Well it looks like it is a SVC 3-Ohm's impedance requiring 750W.
You amp is 4 Ohm stable running at 560W in MONO.
Basically your problems is your amp is 4 Ohm stable and you are trying to run 3 Ohm (more current is running then your amp can handle). It can't run any lower the 4 Ohm's to give you the power you'll need. Your amp is probably going into some sort of protection mode where it runs very little current to the subwoofer since it sees a low impedance.

Your Kenwood KAC-9102D is 2 Ohm stable for 850W. I'm not sure what sort of output it will give with an impedance of 3 Ohm's but it should be able to run the sub. I would guess it would deliver less then 700W so your sub would be slightly underpowered but you would barely notice the difference.

 
Rep Power: 287

A JL 500/1 or 1000/1 would prolly be the best match. Perfect combination for the 13w7 is the 1000/1 and for the 12w7 most use the 500/1 I think, since its safer to run it at that then 1000.

 
Rep Power: 257

why is it wired 3 ohm anyway?

 
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i switched my wiring so now the amp is running at two ohms and pushing about 400 watts RMS maybe a little more/little less. The sub still isnt doing anything it works but it hardly moves at all and it sounds really really tight. like its hitting in a super small sealed box. its hard to explain. so im beginning to think the sub is blown but i dk how to check for that. i smelled the inside of the box and it doesnt smell burnt or anything..... still smells like fresh wood. so i have no idea whats going on. maybe if i switch my amps?!?!?!

 
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ive got an old amp that does that. makes my 500 watt amp sound like a 10 watt or something. try switching amps and if it does the same thing id look into the sub. is the sub brand new from jl?

 
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its a buddies of mine and he never used it so he threw it in my car. he borrowed it to a friend though whom had it hooked up to a jl 1000/1 amp and he liked to crank it. give it all the bass it could handle. so either its blown from him or my amp isnt suitable for it.

 
Rep Power: 287

1000 is close to voiding the warrenty for the sub which means too much power, so it might be blown if he liked to crank it.

Also its 3 ohm because its dual 1.5ohm.

 
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Are you still running the power acoustik amp? Like I said, because no matter what you do it's not going to be stable under 4 Ohm's when its bridged. That's why you would be having problems.

If you are running off a single channel for some reason to have it 2 Ohm stable, you'd only be getting 220W to the sub. That might be another reason its barely moving. A blown speaker is a blown speaker, the coil is still going to move a lot it would just sound like ****. It's not blown.

I think if you have that nice of a subwoofer you should take the time to learn a bit more about car audio before you wreck something.

 
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^^^^^^ I do know quite a bit about car audio, i was just trying to get your guys opinion on whether you think the sub is blown or not. i do know that bridged the amp was running in 4 ohm and i also know that running it off a single channel at 2 ohm its only getting 280 watts RMS. When i say it moves i mean it barely moves it hardly even noticeable and it sounds like ****. im going to try swapping out my amp to my kenwood which is a mono amp. that would give it 850 rms @ 2 ohms. which is the recommended RMS wattage for that sub since its only 750 watts RMS.

If you would have read my last post my buddy borrowed the sub to a guy who beat the **** out of it with a 1000/1 amp. so its a good possibility that its blown or something tore. just letting you know

 
Rep Power: 251

i have confirmed that the sub is blown. the previous guy burnt the voice coils on it. so the voice coils are frozen/locked due to the guy burning the voice coils. when i push down on the center of the cone it wont move at all.