porting your door?
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From: CenTex
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porting your door?
I know everyone has seen those cheezy little cover/boxes you can put on like 6x9 and stuff *that are supposed to enhance the sound*. But i got to thinking today, what if you built mini box's inside your door? more than likely out of fiberglass, and made them port out into your car? I figure, those wouldnt need that much cubic feet of air space, and the ports wouldnt have to be that long. But i was wondering if you think it would really enhance the sound quality? Just a thought. 
Last time I had this much fun some furniture got broken!
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Rep Power: 360 I dont know if it is really worth the work. One thing you can do that will help is get those square pads made by dynamat and put them behind the speaker.
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From: Sewell, New Jersey, USA
Rep Power: 0 you'd have to look at your speakers specs and plug them in a few equations to find out. Dont quote me, but i believe most midrange speakers are designed for an IB setup
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
Rep Power: 251 What most pro car audio people do is put sound deadening material on the skin of the door (the metal that the paint is on) through the holes in the doors. Then you get thin sheet metal and fill in the holes of the door to create a sealed enclosure....
Originally Posted by free_refil
What most pro car audio people do is put sound deadening material on the skin of the door (the metal that the paint is on) through the holes in the doors. Then you get thin sheet metal and fill in the holes of the door to create a sealed enclosure....
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From: CenTex
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Originally Posted by eye_see_you
they make baffles for midrange speakers that do this also but i'm not sure if it will benefit you much
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From: Want to play a game?
Rep Power: 328 I still like dynamatting the door skin inside then taping the window off and spraying a layer of liquid deadener, or rubberized under coating if you're going cheap. It improves it a tad.
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From: Ontario
Rep Power: 379 Aperiodic - Very small boxes that "breathe" through a moving membrane. Both the membrane and cone can not be in the same exterior space. Either the membrane part has to be isolated by cutting a hole in the car so that it is outside, or the subwoofer has to be isolated from the rest of the trunk in a similar fashion to free air woofers. The "box" has to be as small as possible (ideally the membrane should be right up against the sub), since it is used only for coupling the sub and membrane. Aperiodic membrane configurations are very hard to design and tune, but give good frequency response and respond faster to transients, giving accurate and tight bass as opposed to boomy sound. They are not ruled by Thiele-Small parameters like other designs, so any woofer would work with the membrane.
BTW: I don't run door speakers at all. Imaged kicks 6.5 and silk tweet and alum tweets in the a-pillars only.
BTW: I don't run door speakers at all. Imaged kicks 6.5 and silk tweet and alum tweets in the a-pillars only.
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From: bay area, california
Rep Power: 337 door speakers suffer from a loss in low frequency information usually from two sources: minor extent through phasing with the other speaker, but MAJORLY from plain old standard cancellation with its own rearwave!
one of the best yet SUPER easy solutions is to massively sound deaden the door. here is how:
we start with the sheet deadener on the outer skin. everywhere. everywhere. the doorpanel must be strong. in the end, this helps our bass too, preventing the subwoofers loosing energy into the doorpanel through vibration. (if you dont believe me, play some loud bass and feel the outer doorskin of your car!)
once you are there, the door panel itself must be sealed up. for large holes, I like to use plexiglass, about 1/4 inch thick, but hardboard works just fine. for hardboard, I will put one layer of sheet deadener on the back, lay it over the hole, then roll more sheet deadener around all sides.
youll notice we have to take care of the latch of the car. this can be a problem! but not if we are smart about our deadening
for the latch, I use split loom tubing to protect it, in about 8 gauge size. always ensuring that the latch is very free to move, I slowly work my way around sealing the door over the split loom.
the small holes all over just need a layer of deadener over it to seal off the back wave. dont forget to skip the holes that your door panel pops use!
now your door is VERY VERY solid, and the rear wave of the door speaker will be quite contained. chances are this will fix a vast majority of low midbass problems in your car!
--------------------------------------------------------------
I'm making a seperate post for the phase thing. its relatively minor, but its far easier to take care of than deadening the door, so it might be worth a shot anyways. it DEFINITELY is after deadening!
pick some music you know well, and while its playing, swap the phase of one of the door speakers. it helps if you can maintain the tweeters in phase, but its not the end all be all.
always listen from the drivers seat. its possible that the speakers will be *more* in phase from the drivers seat with one of the midbass drivers wired 180 degrees out of phase. this can also help get your sound in focus with instrumentation located in their proper places. takes experimentation.
these two combined should get you all the midbass the recording is going to allow you. porting not required!
one of the best yet SUPER easy solutions is to massively sound deaden the door. here is how:
we start with the sheet deadener on the outer skin. everywhere. everywhere. the doorpanel must be strong. in the end, this helps our bass too, preventing the subwoofers loosing energy into the doorpanel through vibration. (if you dont believe me, play some loud bass and feel the outer doorskin of your car!)
once you are there, the door panel itself must be sealed up. for large holes, I like to use plexiglass, about 1/4 inch thick, but hardboard works just fine. for hardboard, I will put one layer of sheet deadener on the back, lay it over the hole, then roll more sheet deadener around all sides.
youll notice we have to take care of the latch of the car. this can be a problem! but not if we are smart about our deadening
for the latch, I use split loom tubing to protect it, in about 8 gauge size. always ensuring that the latch is very free to move, I slowly work my way around sealing the door over the split loom.
the small holes all over just need a layer of deadener over it to seal off the back wave. dont forget to skip the holes that your door panel pops use!
now your door is VERY VERY solid, and the rear wave of the door speaker will be quite contained. chances are this will fix a vast majority of low midbass problems in your car!
--------------------------------------------------------------
I'm making a seperate post for the phase thing. its relatively minor, but its far easier to take care of than deadening the door, so it might be worth a shot anyways. it DEFINITELY is after deadening!
pick some music you know well, and while its playing, swap the phase of one of the door speakers. it helps if you can maintain the tweeters in phase, but its not the end all be all.
always listen from the drivers seat. its possible that the speakers will be *more* in phase from the drivers seat with one of the midbass drivers wired 180 degrees out of phase. this can also help get your sound in focus with instrumentation located in their proper places. takes experimentation.
these two combined should get you all the midbass the recording is going to allow you. porting not required!
Last edited by WhiteRabbit; Jun 13, 2006 at 09:50 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: bay area, california
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also, check out second skin sludge (www.secondskinaudio.com).
it applies far easier than deadener inside the door, making it the perfect topping to a few sheets of dynamat already in there. while you are at it you can, if you wish, purchase their sheet deadener which I am told is bitchin.
also, check out second skin sludge (www.secondskinaudio.com).
it applies far easier than deadener inside the door, making it the perfect topping to a few sheets of dynamat already in there. while you are at it you can, if you wish, purchase their sheet deadener which I am told is bitchin.
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From: NV
Rep Power: 812 i just put a dynXorb pad behind the speaker, put dynamat on the door, and sealed up the speaker mount with dynamat. its alot better than before as far as bass goes. actually its almost worse cause now the door rattles and shakes alot more from the louder bass.
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