changing front speakers & tweeters
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changing front speakers & tweeters
It was very nice out today, so decided to remove my door panel to see how big a job i'm gonna have this summer to change my stock front speakers and tweeters.
I have Infinity components, I tried one to see if I need a spacer and of course I do, that factory hole is small.
And I was looking how the factory tweeter was in the sail panel, and was wondering if any of you replaced the stock tweeter with another and how did you get it to hold???
Also, did any of you pass new wires for the new speakers? If so was it hard to do??
Anyways, I took some pics, so Megahurtz, if you want to add them to the current DIY, there all yours! I'll post more pics when finnished, today was just to see how big a job it was.
I have Infinity components, I tried one to see if I need a spacer and of course I do, that factory hole is small.
And I was looking how the factory tweeter was in the sail panel, and was wondering if any of you replaced the stock tweeter with another and how did you get it to hold???
Also, did any of you pass new wires for the new speakers? If so was it hard to do??
Anyways, I took some pics, so Megahurtz, if you want to add them to the current DIY, there all yours! I'll post more pics when finnished, today was just to see how big a job it was.
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Rep Power: 0 yeah me too my infinity tweeter fits in too, but the factory tweeter is held by a screw in the back, wich the infinity does not have a screw hole, so how did you get it to hold? did you glue it there? also, are you still using the same wires, or did you pass new wires for the speakers?
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Rep Power: 0 how did you get the mirror cover off? i tries to take my door off to install my infinity 5.1 perfects componets an couldn't get the door off? thats probably what was holding me up? just want a little more info.
Last edited by nighthawk1903; Mar 14, 2006 at 09:53 AM.
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My Door project. 2001 Civic LX
I also have Infinity Components. As far as tweeter mounting I did not have factory tweets so I just used the supplied mounting options with the components. You might want to consider just buying sail panels w/o tweet mounts in them (LX/DX). They are cheep from Honda.
I ran my own wires for everything. I did not use any factory wiring accept for power,remote for head unit. It's easy to run wires from the door into the car. There is actually a hole in the rubber grommet that connects the door to the jamb, at least there was in my car. I just ran it through there. I also mounted the crossover to the door itself. I had to cut away the plastic that is attached to the factory grille on the door panel. It all takes time but I was happy with it. MAKE SURE YOU USE SOME KIND OF SOUND DEADENING MATERIAL!!!!!!!! I used dynamat with the aluminum backing and it works great. A little heavy but it's worth it. There is also a preforated part of the factory rain guard (white plastic on the door panel) that you will need to keep. It is for the foam that extends from the door panel into the door.The foam is used as support for the window when it is down. If you are not trying to seal the door with dynamat or whatever then you don't have to worry about it.
If it is hard to push the wires through the grommet or tube with the other wires just spit on the wires or you can spend money and get something from Lowe's (wire lube or gorilla snot or something) I hope this helps.
I ran my own wires for everything. I did not use any factory wiring accept for power,remote for head unit. It's easy to run wires from the door into the car. There is actually a hole in the rubber grommet that connects the door to the jamb, at least there was in my car. I just ran it through there. I also mounted the crossover to the door itself. I had to cut away the plastic that is attached to the factory grille on the door panel. It all takes time but I was happy with it. MAKE SURE YOU USE SOME KIND OF SOUND DEADENING MATERIAL!!!!!!!! I used dynamat with the aluminum backing and it works great. A little heavy but it's worth it. There is also a preforated part of the factory rain guard (white plastic on the door panel) that you will need to keep. It is for the foam that extends from the door panel into the door.The foam is used as support for the window when it is down. If you are not trying to seal the door with dynamat or whatever then you don't have to worry about it.
If it is hard to push the wires through the grommet or tube with the other wires just spit on the wires or you can spend money and get something from Lowe's (wire lube or gorilla snot or something) I hope this helps.
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Originally Posted by nighthawk1903
how did you get the mirror cover off?
Stepchild----> Thanks that helps alot. So wich way did you feed the wires? from inside the car to inside the door, or from inside the door to inside the car?
Last edited by 05reverb; Mar 14, 2006 at 12:23 PM.
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Rep Power: 290 im considering putting the cross over in my doors.
mone are pg which have a single cross over. but the pcb is perfereated to snap in half for split mounting.. hmmmmmm
mone are pg which have a single cross over. but the pcb is perfereated to snap in half for split mounting.. hmmmmmm
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Originally Posted by coop
through the "accordian" that runs the rest of the power window/door wiring.
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Originally Posted by LowSky
I don't think my infinity's have the same mounting stuff, mine are the 2005 models (the white ones)
I spend way too much time on this website
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kappa 60.7cs
those are the normal EX coupe tweeter panels... use the Starfish mounting brakets like i did.. the tweeter sits out more but it still looks stock
right off crutchfield.com
these are what mine looked like out of the box
kappa 60.7cs
those are the normal EX coupe tweeter panels... use the Starfish mounting brakets like i did.. the tweeter sits out more but it still looks stock
right off crutchfield.com
* I-Mount Tweeter Mounting System: The tweeters can be surface or flush mounted with Infinity's innovative I-Mount system:
o Surface Mount: Surface mounting the tweeters involves screwing the surface-mount cup to the mounting location, then inserting and locking the tweeter into the cup.
o Flush Mount: Flush mounting is made easy through the use of the threaded flush-mount adapter and plastic locking nut. Once a cutout is made, the flush-mount adapter (with the tweeter installed) is inserted into the hole. The large plastic locking nut is threaded onto the adapter (from behind the mounting surface) to hold the complete assembly securely in place. When flush mounted, the tweeters may be angled for optimum response and imaging.
* Starfish Mounting Brackets: The Starfish mounting brackets allow the tweeters to be installed in factory locations behind the grilles:
o Surface Mount (behind grille panel): Once the Starfish bracket is trimmed, it is screwed to the mounting surface behind the grille panel. Then, the tweeter is inserted into the bracket and locked into place.
o Flush Mount (behind grille panel): Once the Starfish bracket is trimmed, it is dropped into the cutout in the mounting surface behind the grille panel. Then, the tweeter is inserted into the bracket and locked into place.
o Bottom Mount (to grille panel): Once the Starfish bracket is trimmed, it is secured to the underside of the grille panel. The tweeter must be inserted into the bracket and locked into place before the bracket is mounted.
o Flush Mount (in-dash location): Once the Starfish bracket is trimmed, it is dropped into the cutout in the dash. Then, the tweeter is inserted into the bracket and locked into place.
o Surface Mount: Surface mounting the tweeters involves screwing the surface-mount cup to the mounting location, then inserting and locking the tweeter into the cup.
o Flush Mount: Flush mounting is made easy through the use of the threaded flush-mount adapter and plastic locking nut. Once a cutout is made, the flush-mount adapter (with the tweeter installed) is inserted into the hole. The large plastic locking nut is threaded onto the adapter (from behind the mounting surface) to hold the complete assembly securely in place. When flush mounted, the tweeters may be angled for optimum response and imaging.
* Starfish Mounting Brackets: The Starfish mounting brackets allow the tweeters to be installed in factory locations behind the grilles:
o Surface Mount (behind grille panel): Once the Starfish bracket is trimmed, it is screwed to the mounting surface behind the grille panel. Then, the tweeter is inserted into the bracket and locked into place.
o Flush Mount (behind grille panel): Once the Starfish bracket is trimmed, it is dropped into the cutout in the mounting surface behind the grille panel. Then, the tweeter is inserted into the bracket and locked into place.
o Bottom Mount (to grille panel): Once the Starfish bracket is trimmed, it is secured to the underside of the grille panel. The tweeter must be inserted into the bracket and locked into place before the bracket is mounted.
o Flush Mount (in-dash location): Once the Starfish bracket is trimmed, it is dropped into the cutout in the dash. Then, the tweeter is inserted into the bracket and locked into place.
Last edited by LowSky; Mar 14, 2006 at 08:30 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Rep Power: 0 I only have the reference series. in your sail panel, there was a screw holding your factory tweeter right? with a plastic running threw it, i'm not sure my tweeter mounts that i got with the infinity's are the same as yours, cause there is no way mine will fit (i think). I would post pick of my mounts, but im too lazy
. My mounts are 2 piece, one is a big black ring about 2 inches deep with threads all the way, the other is a gray piece that goes in that black ring and the tweeter goes in the gray piece and the gray piece is held in the black piece by a bold and is adjustable.
. My mounts are 2 piece, one is a big black ring about 2 inches deep with threads all the way, the other is a gray piece that goes in that black ring and the tweeter goes in the gray piece and the gray piece is held in the black piece by a bold and is adjustable. Thread Starter
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Rep Power: 0 yeah thanks man! Ok now i see, u only used one of the infinity mounts, i have 2 peices, so i'll only use the one u used, perfect thanks, exactly what i wanted to see
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Rep Power: 0 I don't remember but I think it would be easier to run the wires from inside the door to out. After you run the wire (either way) you can pull the rest of the wire throught.
Just a somewhat helpful tip. When you mount your tweet in/on the sail panel,try to make the connection of the tweeter accessible behind the sail panel. In case you have to change tweeters,paint grilles or make custom sail panels. This way, in any account you don't have to remove the entire door panel to do these things. I will try to take some pics tonight to show ya. And again I hope this helps.
Just a somewhat helpful tip. When you mount your tweet in/on the sail panel,try to make the connection of the tweeter accessible behind the sail panel. In case you have to change tweeters,paint grilles or make custom sail panels. This way, in any account you don't have to remove the entire door panel to do these things. I will try to take some pics tonight to show ya. And again I hope this helps.
Last edited by stepchild; Mar 16, 2006 at 06:39 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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