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Rattling Box

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Old Dec 17, 2005
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Rattling Box

Well I have been trying to track down what is rattling in my car. I thought it was the wooden floor I built w/ the door and it was all rattling against the metal. As is it turns out part of my box itself is rattling.

The area circled is where the rattle is (left wall, inside the port). If I apply pressure towards the left speaker it stops rattling so I guess that wall has come loose towards the center. I have no idea what a good solution would be or how to fix this.

Thanks in advance.
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Old Dec 17, 2005
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only idea i have is to take the subs out and reglue the loose areas, but if you dont wanna deal with that buy an new box.
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Old Dec 17, 2005
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oh man...is that a prefabed ported box?


take another photo of the slotted port or do you have a link of what it looks like inside the box?
i remember buying a prefabed ported enclosure for a solobaric and when it would pound, you can hear/feel the air traveling out of the port. it was poorly designed ported box
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Old Dec 17, 2005
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Originally Posted by jttegx
oh man...is that a prefabed ported box?


take another photo of the slotted port or do you have a link of what it looks like inside the box?
I don't know, I bought it used. I guess it is..?
these pics help:

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Old Dec 18, 2005
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thats odd, is that even a port? maybe im blind, but i cant seem to find the empty space inside that slot.

when the subs hit, do you feel air comming out of that "port" ?
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Old Dec 18, 2005
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i say peel back the carpet from around the port in the affected area and use a staple gun (compressor driven, with 1.25" staples, not some cheap hand-squeezed deal) to try to tighten that gap up a little better... good luck!
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Old Dec 18, 2005
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Originally Posted by jttegx
thats odd, is that even a port? maybe im blind, but i cant seem to find the empty space inside that slot.

when the subs hit, do you feel air comming out of that "port" ?
Yeah those inside walls stop about an inch and a half short of the back wall. So the air flows back there.

Originally Posted by usafcushman
i say peel back the carpet from around the port in the affected area and use a staple gun (compressor driven, with 1.25" staples, not some cheap hand-squeezed deal)
that would probably work if I had access to one...

I'm going to try to get something in there between the two boards and expand it back to where it should be then reglue it.
1. should this work?
2. what kind of glue should I buy?
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Old Dec 18, 2005
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ok, people have a tendency to call the things that i do "ghetto", but i say fvck the haters cuz my ideas and more importantly, they work...

so read this, laugh at me and call me dumb, then go do it cuz you know it'll work lol...

the port looks like it is wide enough, so i say use slap some Gorilla Glue on the circled part, then wedge your O.E.M. jack in there and crank it around a time or two til that center part is where it needs to be... peel back the carpet and put a few small (small as in diameter, not small as in .5" long, cuz that would be pointless) screws in there (top, middle, and bottom should be fine) to help keep everything in place and prevent similar issues in the future (make sure they're flush or you're gonna have bumps when you stick the carpet back down... then remove the subwoofer on the left and put about 7 tubes of silicone sealant on that corner to make sure it's nice and airtight, and voila, bangin new box... good luck, hope this inspired you lol...

edit: good job on the trunk
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Old Dec 18, 2005
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remove sub, put a bead of silicone caulk down the side of it. lightly pull back the carpet on the front of the box, predrill 4 holes, and use drywall screws into the port piece. superglue the carpet back down.
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Old Dec 18, 2005
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Originally Posted by blackhatch
remove sub, put a bead of silicone caulk down the side of it. lightly pull back the carpet on the front of the box, predrill 4 holes, and use drywall screws into the port piece. superglue the carpet back down.
thank you for saying the exact same thing i said
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Old Dec 18, 2005
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I've been having the same problem with the rattling box. Thinking about switching to a sealed box, I think it would sound hella cleaner, what do ya think?
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Old Dec 18, 2005
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^ that ish looks crazy bro... IMO a sealed box would sound cleaner than the one you currently have, but then again i haven't heard it, so i'm just taking a guess based on previous experience with JL W3s...
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Old Dec 18, 2005
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I'm not after it being the best it can be. I just had a good deal to get them from a friend so I did. Therefore I don't want to invest too much to fix it. So using the jack and some screws or nails sounds like a good plan and I'll try to do that tomorrow
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Old Dec 19, 2005
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Originally Posted by efil on evol on
I'm not after it being the best it can be. I just had a good deal to get them from a friend so I did. Therefore I don't want to invest too much to fix it. So using the jack and some screws or nails sounds like a good plan and I'll try to do that tomorrow
haha, my ghetto influence is spreading... nails are smooth and will slip out when the bass starts pounding, so i say stick with drywall screws... they're ribbed, for your pleasure lol...
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Old Dec 19, 2005
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For strong glue go with "Mr. Sticky's". Is not cheap but is very good.
For subs and box design read about it (google "speaker design"). You nedd to have precise dimmensions in order to not have ratles.
Good speakers in bad box is waste of money!
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Old Dec 19, 2005
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Originally Posted by usafcushman
^ that ish looks crazy bro... IMO a sealed box would sound cleaner than the one you currently have, but then again i haven't heard it, so i'm just taking a guess based on previous experience with JL W3s...

Thanks...it used to sound unbelievalbe the first couple of months but now it just seems like there's way too much air coming out of the port and I can hear it inside the car...I've had two sealed boxes boxes before and I think they sound a lot cleaner than ported. In the spring, I'll replace this box with a sealed enlosure and that should take care of everything.
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Old Dec 21, 2005
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Reply back when you finish .
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Old Dec 23, 2005
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well I put in two 3" screws today using the jack stand to bridge the gap and that did the trick. thanks everybody. next is the trunk door itself
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Old Dec 23, 2005
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haha, my ghetto ways prevail yet again...

as far as the trunk itself rattling, one of the biggest things you can do is lower the latch... pop off the plastic trim piece, take a 10mm wrench/ratchet, loosen the bolt on each side of the latch (the latch on the actual trunk part, not the lid), and it'll slide down about 1/4 of an inch... tighten it back up and your good to go... this just pulls the trunk a little tighter, and it stops alot of the vibrations...
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Old Dec 23, 2005
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take the subs out, glue and reinforce them then back to bumping
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