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So i just got myself some new speakers, they are infinity 6012i 6 1/2".
I've got a sedan and a member on this forum told me i need to have a 1" spacer up front, is there any cheaper alternatives for spacers? I'm so tight on budget i can't afford the dynamat and the spacers lol....
Can i just do a square of dynamat up front around the speakers? or i'm just wasting money and should only do it the right way (cover all metal in the door).
Does xorb padding makes a huge difference? I've never had them.

Thanks guys.

 
Rep Power: 787

Dude just buy the spacers, they are like 10 bucks, how cheap can u get?

as far as dynamat, I think the speaker kits are designed togive you a piece behind the speaker and a piece around the mounting hole

 
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do you know what the mounting depth is on the speakers you are installing? and how big of a mounting depth we can have b/c im looking at the infinity components 6010cs and they have a mounting depth of 2-1/16, i jus wanna know b4 i take my door panels off if they will fit right or scrape the window..

 
Rep Power: 336

They are $12.99. WTF!? Go buy them... Why crumple up dynamat and have a shitty install that won't last. If you don't install them correctly then you have no reason to install them at all.

 
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guess i'll have to wait till next month and grab a new HU along with them..
6012i are 1 15/16"
btw, when i say alternative i dont' mean putting ****. maybe something like DIY by wood or something that i can make on my own time.
No need to flame a poor college boy

 
Rep Power: 308

Have a jig saw ? Cut them out of MDF or plywood. Most of the original speaker boxes have knock-outs perforated in the box for size reference.

 
Rep Power: 812

but if you're like most of us and have water leaking in there, wood is not a good idea.

 
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buy these. even tho they have to be cut, it will make a difference. if you slap the speakers in, you're not gonna be happy with how they sound. I know I wasn't so I redid everything.

 
Rep Power: 329

Just cut them out of MDF. I'd recommend going with 3/4 inch though, cause you're gonna have trouble getting the door panel back on if you use 1". I had the same set in there for 4 years (they're still in the vehicle after I sold it to my gf's sister) and they're fine. When you put the door panels back in, put a bead of weather stripping on the inside of them. And replace all the pop-in connectors around the edges. I swapped them for the same type of clips that are on the rear deck. Those are a little larger and hold much better. The downside is that you have to break them when you take the panel back off. Make sure you silicone the baffle/spacer to the door then screw them on. Incorrectly baffling does nothing for your sound, but correctly baffling will make a world of difference.

 
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i just sealed around the spacer with dynamat. would that be okay? also when you do silicone for mdf, don't install the speaker for 24 hrs cause the vapors will eat away the rubber.

 
Rep Power: 787

^^ somebody might want to shed some light on that. I've heard the same before, but I vaguely remember reading about that being a myth.

focus: paint the wood and it will seal it up and there will be no problems

 
Rep Power: 329

Baffling does several things. One is it gives backspacing to the magnet, but more importantly, correctly baffling seals off the backwave from the front wave of the speaker, effectively limiting the cancellation you'll experiance. Problem is, most people sound deaden inside the doors as well with the aluminum backed mat deadener. That could create a problem, and causes reflection behind the speaker decreasing the sq in lots of installs. If you're going to deaden in there, use some type of rubber or asphalt based without a backing, or spray over the backed type with a rubberized undercoating. The people that spent all that money on the door deadening kits would be offended though if I told them it decreased their speaker's overall performance, and the manufacturers don't want you to know this. I digress, the main focus here is on baffling. You're trying to accomplish two things, sealing the backwave, and gaining magnet clearance. Silicone, or silicone based adhesives/sealers are best in this application. Besides sealing better than mat deadener would, it also provides a small cushion between the door and the baffle, so it decreases panel resonance, and vibration between the pieces as well. Sure, you could defeat the rattle problem by deadening then screwing the baffle over the top of that, but you still haven't sealed it as well. It'd be decent, and improve the sound a bit, but siliconing it on there would further amplify the gain by providing a complete seal. True, the panel will have some holes in it, but those can be covered with the deadener. If a clip isn't going into it, cover over it so you'll seal the backwave as best as possible.

 
Rep Power: 329

Oh, and I concur with mh's statement to paint the wood baffle. It'll seal teh wood and help with moisture, should you experiance any.