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how many watts (rms) can you run?

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Old Oct 7, 2005
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how many watts (rms) can you run?

im curious to know how many watts rms are you guys running in the civic w/ stock alternator? or how many rms watts would be perfectly safe to run in a honda civic with its stock alternator (70amp)?

because im trying to figure out if running 1000rms watts in a older civic (1998) with the factory battery/alternator is bound to damage the vehicle in the long run. i believe it has the same 70amp alternator as the 01+ civics well?

do you think it'd be fine? volume play is usually 50-60%
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Old Oct 7, 2005
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I know that there r people on here running over 1000w rms w/ stock battery/alt and have had no problems

I've been running 800rms for the past year with yellow top and 3 caps but stock alt and no problem. I think u could prolly do like 1500w rms but not sure.

There has to be some sort of calculation for this but I dont know it.

Dark Legacy/S200man help us out. maybe Gearbox/MegaHurtz
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Old Oct 7, 2005
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i ran over 1000 watts going to the subs alone in my car and had no problems. i only had the system installed for like 2 weeks though. way too loud for me so i got rid of it.
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Old Oct 7, 2005
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i was running 1600rms off the oem battery and alternator with a grounding kit.
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Old Oct 7, 2005
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do the big 3, upgrade your battery, and then the max i'd reccomend running is a TRUE 1200 RMS or so, (you can do more, but it will be a hefty strain)

not some over hyped audiobahn,hifonics,sony,etc... RMS
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Old Oct 7, 2005
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the most I have ever put on my car with a fully stock electrical system was about 2700 rms. only 1500 rms of that amount was class D, the rest was class a/b. massive dimming, but otherwise it was pretty O.K. Like other posters in this thread, that was temporary.

Long term the most I can boast is about 2500 rms, 1000 of which was class a/b and 1500 class D. I think my stock battery after all the years (which is still under my hood) wont hold a charge, but I can't confirm that. Regardless, whether or not someone wants to call me out on electrical system health, I think its a telling point on whether or not YOUR car with the power YOU want to run will be "just fine".

I like to equate the electrical system health to human health. Drop a 1000 watt class a/b amp into your trunk, and your car isnt ognna be the equivalent of a person that can run the mile in 6 minutes anymore. Its not like your car becomes the 60 year old chronic smoker health condition! MUCH less being totally dead. Its somewhere in between.

can YOU run a mile in 6 minutes? I can't. and I'm okay with that. Just like I feel okay that my car's electrical system isnt a comparative olympiad of electrical systems out there.

There were questions about this years ago in this forum. some of the SPL competitors were coming out and talking about some of the insane amplifiers they were running, pushing 2500 rms class D and higher just for bass duty, and THEN the class a/b amplifiers for highs on top of that! all on stock electrical plus some batteries (a further strain on the alternator....)

In the end, we've got a pretty solid alternator in our cars. If yours blows because of that amp, chances are, it was a lemon to begin with. (the alternator, not the car )
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Old Oct 7, 2005
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my friend has a stock se-r altima and hes running 4 13w7's which are around 3000-4000 rms...haha...but he has auxilary batteries to work with
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