Amp "stays on" question-please help!
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Amp "stays on" question-please help!
Ok, heres my problem. I just got my car back from the mechanic (after 2.5 months!!!) and now when I hook up my amp to my power cables it stays on even tho the engine is shut off and the head unit is off also. What could the problem be? I know we had to take out the engine but the wiring in the engine bay looks just like it did before (battery hoop-up, etc.). Help me out here please-I have no clue what the problem could be. Thanks a bunch.
The remote switch wire is connected straight to the battery. It should be connected to the system remote wire on the head unit (usually blue) which will turn the amp on when the head unit turns on.
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ok, im lookin @ it right now and even before I plug in my remote wire-just the power and ground, the amp lights up.
im gonna check out the back of the head unit like you said about the remote wire-thanks.
im gonna check out the back of the head unit like you said about the remote wire-thanks.
Last edited by hyperactive; Aug 26, 2005 at 09:01 PM.
disconnect the remote wire from the hu connect it to the fuse box under the staring...make sure u connect it to 7.5amp for radio...fuse should be in brown color.......should be no problem...
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Originally Posted by jay78
disconnect the remote wire from the hu connect it to the fuse box under the staring...make sure u connect it to 7.5amp for radio...fuse should be in brown color.......should be no problem...
Yeah I wouldn't recommend connecting it to the fuse box either...
Also, whatever Wonderz is saying about hooking it up to a switch.. uhh who does that? honestly... If you can't figure out your own problems, why would you tell someone how to fix theirs? You do have power going into the remote turn-on.. if it's threads that are going into the remote or the amp is having internal problems.. You need to give us an update on what you've done so far..
Also, whatever Wonderz is saying about hooking it up to a switch.. uhh who does that? honestly... If you can't figure out your own problems, why would you tell someone how to fix theirs? You do have power going into the remote turn-on.. if it's threads that are going into the remote or the amp is having internal problems.. You need to give us an update on what you've done so far..
the amp needs a +12V supply, a ground and a remote to turn on.
i dont see how it powers on without the remote wire.
if it is doing that, i think that a few strands are touching the remote from the power, or crack it open and take a pic and post it.
i dont see how it powers on without the remote wire.
if it is doing that, i think that a few strands are touching the remote from the power, or crack it open and take a pic and post it.
check the connections on the amp. All the power wires are usually close. Power, ground, remote mabey somehow the power and remote are toughing each other.
TO whoever said the switch idea its a good idea after u figure out whats wrong i have a switch on my remote lead so i can turn the amp on and off if i dont fell like hearing my subs or if its too cold and i dont want them to crack but all the connections are done right its still not 12v constant is should never be
TO whoever said the switch idea its a good idea after u figure out whats wrong i have a switch on my remote lead so i can turn the amp on and off if i dont fell like hearing my subs or if its too cold and i dont want them to crack but all the connections are done right its still not 12v constant is should never be
MegaHurtz why not hook that remote up to the fuse? I've heard people say that its fine, and people that say not to - I'm just wondering at the reasoning behind both sides. Personally I have mine hooked up to the remote just because thats what the instructions say to do, and usually those instructions end up being right.
Some people think putting a switch in is cool, plus you have the ability to turn off your system if you so choose. I know my girlfriend hates mine so I have to turn it way down when she's in the car, it would be nice to just have a switch. However I would still recommend diagnosing your problem before you put in a switch just to be on the safe side.
Some people think putting a switch in is cool, plus you have the ability to turn off your system if you so choose. I know my girlfriend hates mine so I have to turn it way down when she's in the car, it would be nice to just have a switch. However I would still recommend diagnosing your problem before you put in a switch just to be on the safe side.
Originally Posted by Imtheconvict
check the connections on the amp. All the power wires are usually close. Power, ground, remote mabey somehow the power and remote are toughing each other.
TO whoever said the switch idea its a good idea after u figure out whats wrong i have a switch on my remote lead so i can turn the amp on and off if i dont fell like hearing my subs or if its too cold and i dont want them to crack but all the connections are done right its still not 12v constant is should never be
TO whoever said the switch idea its a good idea after u figure out whats wrong i have a switch on my remote lead so i can turn the amp on and off if i dont fell like hearing my subs or if its too cold and i dont want them to crack but all the connections are done right its still not 12v constant is should never be
Why would you reply to a post that as been dead for 6 months? I'm sure the dude fixed his problem cuz he didnt repost anything and it was probably something dumb that he didnt want to share with us. Then again... why am I?
And no u SHOULDN'T connect stuff to the fuse box... oh wait what do 2 MECP installers (Darklegacy and myself) and MegaHurtz know? Prolly not much... (sarcasm)
I was very polite when asking about the fuse box, in fact I didn't disagree but simply asked why it isn't a good idea to connect things to the fuse box, which no one has yet answered. So, if this:
was directed at me - then I'll be the first to say I don't know what MECP stands for but I guess it just means you're a jerk, because I was very nice.
If you were talking to the guy who dug up this six month old post (I didn't look at the date myself, and haven't been around that long) then some anger is justified and I'm sorry I assumed it was directed at me since that guy didn't post anything about connecting to fuses.
Originally Posted by Kyle23
And no u SHOULDN'T connect stuff to the fuse box... oh wait what do 2 MECP installers (Darklegacy and myself) and MegaHurtz know? Prolly not much... (sarcasm)
If you were talking to the guy who dug up this six month old post (I didn't look at the date myself, and haven't been around that long) then some anger is justified and I'm sorry I assumed it was directed at me since that guy didn't post anything about connecting to fuses.
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Originally Posted by Kyle23
Why would you reply to a post that as been dead for 6 months? I'm sure the dude fixed his problem cuz he didnt repost anything and it was probably something dumb that he didnt want to share with us. Then again... why am I?
And no u SHOULDN'T connect stuff to the fuse box... oh wait what do 2 MECP installers (Darklegacy and myself) and MegaHurtz know? Prolly not much... (sarcasm)
And no u SHOULDN'T connect stuff to the fuse box... oh wait what do 2 MECP installers (Darklegacy and myself) and MegaHurtz know? Prolly not much... (sarcasm)
btw I happen to be an MECP installer, but a piece of paper doesnt say that much
Just in case you guys didn't know, (like I didn't), MECP means
"Mobile Electronics Certified Professional"
I'm guessing it's kind of like the professional exams we engineers have. After a few years practicing in your field you'll take an exam to certify as a professional, or a CChE, Certified Chemical Enginer. Our abbreviation is inherently cooler because it has a lowercase letter in there :-P. I believe in my field (Chemical Engineering) you don't make a significant amount more money after you're certified, but there are so many specialties in chemical engineering that companies look at your actual experience, not a piece of paper - just like grenloch said.
But what do I know, I'm just using this as a degree to fall back on in case I ever catch a malpractice suit. ;-)
"Mobile Electronics Certified Professional"
I'm guessing it's kind of like the professional exams we engineers have. After a few years practicing in your field you'll take an exam to certify as a professional, or a CChE, Certified Chemical Enginer. Our abbreviation is inherently cooler because it has a lowercase letter in there :-P. I believe in my field (Chemical Engineering) you don't make a significant amount more money after you're certified, but there are so many specialties in chemical engineering that companies look at your actual experience, not a piece of paper - just like grenloch said.
But what do I know, I'm just using this as a degree to fall back on in case I ever catch a malpractice suit. ;-)
Last edited by synod; Jan 3, 2006 at 09:05 PM.
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