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Hey I just bought all this stuff and I'm trying to have it set up the best way possible. Now, maybe I'm just ignorant but I'm really having a hard time figuring out the whole "Ohm" deal.

Setup: 1 - 4 Ohm SVC Infinity 1230W and 1 - Profile AP600 300 Watts RMS x 1 bridged @ 4 Ohms (4 Ohm Stable in bridged mode)

Now my question is, what setup would I use to make sure I'm getting that 300 watts RMS at 4 Ohms? Any extra feedback in the simplest terms is appreciated. Thanks a lot.

Chris

 
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I think of it this way. The more ohms you have, the less power that it is going to try to suck out of your amp, and the fewer amount of ohms that you have, the more that you are going to try to suck out of of your amp. Now with your setup, considering that you sub is SVC (single voice coil) the ohms will not change. Now if you were to have 2 of those subs or 1 DVC sub (dual voice coil) then the ohms will change based of they way that they are wired. You can look up the wiring configurations else where. All that you need to know is that series will always raise the amount of ohms that you have (less power), and parallel will always lower the ohms (more power). This needs to be taken into consideration when you are wiring them to your amp because if the ohms are too low, you will blow the amp. Your amp will put out the most power in bridged mode, and it says that bridged mode is 4 ohm stable. That means that the ohms of your speakers can go no lower than 4 ohms. Since your subs are 4 ohms though, then you will be fine. When you hook up your subs, look in the instructions to find out how to enable bridged mode (on my amp is was the positive connector all the way to the left and the negative connector all the way to the right). Once you see what the bridged mode connectors are, then hook the positive connector on your sub to the positive connector on the am, and then hook the negative connector on your sub to the negative connector on your amp. I hope that this helped you out. That is at least how I came to understand it all. 3 months ago, I knew literally nothing about audio. Since then, I've reseached it thouroughly and I know a pretty good bit.

 
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yep, he pretty much explained it all. Also, your sub is 300Watts RMS too so that is a nice setup. I have the exact same sub in my car, but my amp is only 200watts RMS/600 max rockford fosgate but it sounds great for the price.

 
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What type of amp kit do you use? I checked crutchfields chart and it says I can use a 10 gauge kit. However, when I was chatting with someone from tech support, they said I NEED 8 gauge with a 40 amp fuse.

 
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Just go with the 8 gauge to be safe. I use that with my 300 watt amp and I have never had a problem. That fuse is important though. It can keep your amp from catching on fire (and that isn't a just in case type of deal. It happens to more people than you think. A burning car can really ruin your day).

 
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Yeah I believed him about the fuse. I just wasn't sure if he might be trying to get an extra ten bucks outta me. My friend had a small fire in his trunk at school in the parking lot one day a few years ago. Thanks for your help, hopefully wiring this kit goes a little smoother than the last time I tried...

 
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Oh crap, man, what happened the first time? Make sure that you read the amp wiring diy then. I've done everything by myself and I haven't had any problems (besides a few panels not snapped completely, but that isn't visible or noticeable). Make sure that double check where all of the wires go in the amp. One wire in the wrong location can make you amp sound like firecrackers are going off inside.

 
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More importantly if you are new to this, make sure you know what you are doing with the setting on the amp. Make sure to use a LP filter and set your gains properly. Do a search here and you'll find some good info on how to set your gains. Visit the "Sites from which to learn your audio" link found within the sticky at the top of the forum. That'll ger you startyed in all the right directions.

 
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Well I talked to one of my friends and we looked up my speaker online. For $5 more, you can get the same sub with DVC instead of the SVC. Is it worth the extra money? I don't really know the benefits of having DVC.

 
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Well, for the amp you have listed above, the SVC sub you listed is just perfect. if the DVC is dual 2 ohm or dual 8 ohm, it might be worth it.

 
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Also, keep in mind that your amp is your limiting factor. Chances are, that sub is also more powerful, but it will only put out as much power as the amp is feeding it.

 
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It's a DVC 4 ohm.

The RMS matches up perfect for the sub. Only difference in the specs is the peak output, which I don't pay attention to anyway.

 
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if it's a dvc 4ohms, stick with your svc because you can only get 2ohms or 8ohms with that sub. Only if you had 2 of those, you could get 4 Ohms, but then your amp would not be powerful enough to run both at their full potential. Your amp is best at 4 Ohms