BATTERY RELOCATION--check out the pictures... =D
#31
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Rep Power: 0 youre gonna need to upgrade the wires to at least 4 for sure. as far as fumes, you need to seal the top portion and ventilate from the bottom. better yet, you might to invest in some gel battery.
#32
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Rep Power: 364 you should have atleast 4gauge wire from the trunk to the engine bay for a battery relocation . I have the yellow top optima replacement for our 7th gen and its 450 or so cranking amps, cost me about 118.00$ but I've had no issues at all since I put it in.
#33
hi,
Did you ground the battery to the chassis ground?
Also, once mentioned that you should use a larger diameter wire. He is right, larger diameter wire means lower resistance, therefore you won't have current loss.
Did you ground the battery to the chassis ground?
Also, once mentioned that you should use a larger diameter wire. He is right, larger diameter wire means lower resistance, therefore you won't have current loss.
#34
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Rep Power: 0 i just ordered a 2gauge wire to be delivered in about couple of days... definitely the pipe ain't big enough to deliver the water to the faucet that was an "idiot proof" explanation and yes... i will also get the Optima batteries... D31T sounds good? but as far as ground, 8gauge wires would be fine or I also have to have atleast upgrade it to a 4gauge wires?
#36
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Rep Power: 0 U get a voltage drop over long distances kinda like an extension cord and a hot glue gun. The gun will take forever to get hot. Try using a smaller GA to compensate for the distance.
#37
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Rep Power: 0 i'll let you guys know when i get the 2gauge wire in... and also i already ordered a D31A optima battery, this thing should be great with my system!
did anybody changed their alternator to a bigger and better one? how much? where to get? thanks!
did anybody changed their alternator to a bigger and better one? how much? where to get? thanks!
#39
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Originally Posted by diskreet
i know what some of the problem is..
that tach!
that tach!
take off the glittery rubber steering wheel cover!!
Last edited by Neptune; 03-06-2005 at 01:44 PM.
#41
I have done this in my old astro van successfully for the reason of when I had my 12 - 12"s and 6 punch amps for spl, I had several attemps of thievory. They were trying to drill a hole right in the battery I kid you not, Why would they do this ask you? Becuase once the acid has drained out the battery no longer can power the alarm. This was ofcourse before I purchased a back up battery. But I used nothing less than 1/0 guage. You can get it for a dollar a foot at any welding supply store, If you dont care what it looks like. Also ground obviously most be less than 18" I ran mine directly to the frame @ 14". Reason why is that my motor's main grounding resides on the frame, which was the shortest distance from battery to starter.
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Originally Posted by paradoxblue
ahaha yes omg :|
#44
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Rep Power: 0 thats always been the issues w/ car products, lifetime warranty is not transferable. its rather smart move for the product maker, they prolly did a research on it... ppl will tend to keep the car w/in ~5yrs or so.
Originally Posted by HondaGuy12
u should just go with the optima....you get a lifetime warranty on it or intill you sell your car...
#45
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Originally Posted by profuse007
thats always been the issues w/ car products, lifetime warranty is not transferable. its rather smart move for the product maker, they prolly did a research on it... ppl will tend to keep the car w/in ~5yrs or so.
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Originally Posted by pnoyster2k1cvic
^^^that's fine i know he's ignorant as ***! just the PTSD got into me...
Well put.
By the way:
1. People like you are the reason ricer children get the street rep they have. "I will kill you with my 1.7L 4 cyl engine!"
2. I have a master's degree in physics education
3. "****" is spelled with a "c"
#50
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Rep Power: 0 focus people! aight all my extra gadgets came in today... i.e. battery POS terminal with volt meter, nice sparklin NEG terminal with 0 2 4 gauge connectors... i'm just waiting for my D31A battery
#51
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Originally Posted by Bires
BWAH HA HA HA
Well put.
By the way:
1. People like you are the reason ricer children get the street rep they have. "I will kill you with my 1.7L 4 cyl engine!"
2. I have a master's degree in physics education
3. "****" is spelled with a "c"
Well put.
By the way:
1. People like you are the reason ricer children get the street rep they have. "I will kill you with my 1.7L 4 cyl engine!"
2. I have a master's degree in physics education
3. "****" is spelled with a "c"
1--you should join the marines or spec ops, they will need that physics education you earned? if you have the ***** you chicken ****!!!...
2--my car's faster than yours
3--the tach stays
#54
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Originally Posted by pnoyster2k1cvic
1--you should join the marines or spec ops, they will need that physics education you earned? if you have the ***** you chicken ****!!!...
2--my car's faster than yours
3--the tach stays
2--my car's faster than yours
3--the tach stays
1--I teach in the public high schools. Don't call me chicken. For that matter, don't call me ****. Hey don't call me at all. I have plenty of friends with normal blood pressure and neurochemistry.
2--Most likely you're right. My civic is sound deadened, and has an upgraded sound system. I put close to 200lbs in it above stock just for sound quality and driving pleasure. I love driving my car. All the time. Not just for the 7 seconds or so until I get to freeway speeds.
3--Cool. Keep the tach. Add a few more. Eventually, your dash will look like a the con of a WWII submarine. Take lots of pics. Besides, someone has to keep the Taiwanese children employed by buying their ricer trash.
#55
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Originally Posted by WhiteRabbit
the monster 5" tach is needed to match the exhaust pipe.....
#56
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Originally Posted by Bires
Besides, someone has to keep the Taiwanese children employed by buying their ricer trash.
www.autometer.com
Auto Meter is an American owned and operated company and we greatly appreciate that you have made us America's No. 1 racing instrument manufacturer. Since our beginning in 1957, we have devoted a tremendous amount of time and resources into maintaining a strong leadership role. We are serious about manufacturing the absolute best instruments in the automotive aftermarket. Our commitment to NASCAR Winston Cup, Busch Grand National, NASCAR Craftsman Series, NHRA and IHRA helps to insure that drivers can rely on the products we produce. Our involvement allows us to provide innovative, useful instruments for all classes of racing. After all, Stock Car Racing, Drag Racing and Street Rodding were "Born in America" and we are glad to be your partner in this exciting business.
so all race cars are now called "RICE" because they have tachs on them???
Last edited by pnoyster2k1cvic; 03-08-2005 at 12:43 AM.
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Rep Power: 0 reading this thread gave me another reason to not be boosted. i bought the HP performance kit that requires the battery to be moved to the trunk. well the person i bought the turbo kit from forgot to send the battery relocation kit since it comes with it. its cokblocking me from my install cuz im still waiting for it to get to my house...keep me posted on the battery relocation though and try to take more pics of it cuz im doing the install on my own
#58
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Originally Posted by SkipBarber
when you took the battery out of the car, did you rest it on the floor? on concrete? I learned that by putting the battery on a concrete floor, it starts to discharge rapidly.
thats a myth........ i had a bat. sitting on the floor for over six months and nothing happened. regardless if its sitting on the floor it will still drain, i used to work in a auto parts store so even bats. on the shelf would drain...........
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Originally Posted by pnoyster2k1cvic
whhhhaaatttt!!! my exhaust is not that big guy! second it had to be atleast 2.5 just to get some air flow goin... if you're not boosted, you will never understand... and last... like I said before that tach is there for a purpose, i AutoX and Drag Race... now ya'll just hatin on my ride, coz i can smoke your 7thgen like you're on reverse... and I still gain whp after 5500+ RPM!
#60
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Rep Power: 0 dood! this thread was first all about the battery relocation... so it's now my fault that ya'll whored out my thread???
Reason for the tach
--you maybe driving an auto and you don't need to shift gear...
--I want a precise shifting, right after 6RPM
--do you auto x? have you driven a course that you can only be on 2nd gear tops??
--have you had your 7thgen boosted and set the VTEC at 4500 or 5K RPM? you have no idea how fast the RPM goes after the VTEC kicks in
--i don't need your sympathy and lets focus on the batter relocation...
Reason for the tach
--you maybe driving an auto and you don't need to shift gear...
--I want a precise shifting, right after 6RPM
--do you auto x? have you driven a course that you can only be on 2nd gear tops??
--have you had your 7thgen boosted and set the VTEC at 4500 or 5K RPM? you have no idea how fast the RPM goes after the VTEC kicks in
--i don't need your sympathy and lets focus on the batter relocation...