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I don't want to spend the extra money for another JL Audio 12w3v2 D4 after I blew my previous one out, I want to spend around $150 for a new subwoofer, a different brand, that can run wired in a 2 Ohm load running around 350W RMS from my Alpine M300. I am also looking to switch from a slotted box that I built for my original W3V2 to an enclosed box for space purposes. Does anyone have any suggestions for subwoofers that fit my preference? Thanks for your help.

 
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You might could find a used IDMAX for that on ebay. Though I;d compare it to one of JL's higher lines...

 
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Actually, I just got done looking on ebay and I think I may downgrade from a 12" to just a 10" 12w3v2 instead in a closed box. I can get one for $125. I know going from slotted to closed box will make a difference in sound, but if I had a 10" v2 in a slotted enclosure, would it be about as loud my 12" w3v2 was? Thanks.

 
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No, a 10 will not be as loud as a 12, there is just simply less cone area to move air. Normally subs dont just blow, usually they blow because they were driven too hard, so a downgrade doesnt really make sense (to me at least) in your case. You need to upgrade, not downgrade.

 
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I don't feel that I overpowered the sub, rather and amplifier wasn't tuned correctly. My 12w3v2 should have easily been able to run the 350W RMS that my Alpine M300 puts out wired at 4 Ohms. My amplifier was underrated 50W by the way, the base is 300W RMS. I don't think the amplifier was tuned correctly.

 
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how did your 12w3v2 blow?

 
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Your D4 has two 4 ohm coils. When you hook up both coils wired in series you get a 2 ohm load. So even though both coils are 4 ohms, the amp thinks you have a single 2 ohm sub. You were running the amp at 2 ohms and the amp was putting out 300 watts rms.

If you hooked up a D2, wired in series, it would appear like a single 4 ohm sub to the amp, and then the amp would only put out 150 watts rms.


Subs blow from overpowering or defects. Pick your reason. IMO tuning the amp has nothing to do w/ blowing the sub. If the gain was set wrong 2 things can happen.
1) It won't be as loud as it should be, which won't affect anything.
2) It could get too loud too fast, so that you can't turn up the HU very far. If this was the case you should hear it distort, and you should turn it down. If you don't, this is when you would blow the woofer due to overpowering it.


FWI you could overpower that sub with an even smaller amp. Amps when really pushed get ugly and put out distorted power, usually much higher than they are rated for. Your 300 rms amp could put out over 1000 watts of distorted power in certain instances ..... and the sub isn't going to take it. Just because the amp technically puts out less power than the sub is rated for doesn't mean that it can't blow the sub ....

 
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Then I probably was clipping the signal and that caused it to blow. I will have to tune my subsonic filter down if I get another subwoofer.

 
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I never said anything about overpowering your speaker, i said you pushed it too hard. Distortion blows speakers, rarely does too much power. I'm saying that you were trying to listen to your sub louder then the amp could push it (or it could play) well into distortion and thats why your sub blew.

 
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check crutchfield and cardomain. they have really good deals and also help with installation. thats were id check first.

 
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Thats what I meant, sorry. I don't know if a short in the wire between the amplifier and the subwoofer could have caused it though. One of the wires was fractured and touching the spare tire rim. I know this because at one point my amplifier went into protection because of the short, but I know it didn't do it all the time.

 
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what speaker brand ur looking 4?

 
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Actually, I am probably going to get another JL Audio and spend a little extra money for the JL 12w6v2. I will get money for the holidays that I can blow on something a little better. The W6v2 will sound better than the W3v2, maybe not by much, but eventually I want to get a more powerful amplifier. Do you all think that two JL 12w3v2's being run at a 2 Ohm load, 175W RMS each, would be louder than one W6 being given 350W RMS?

 
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The IDMAX will sound just as good, and perform just as well as teh budget W7, or W6v2 as JL named it, for less money.

 
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The only thing i have against them is that I have never heard of that brand, and I have defiantely heard of JL Audio and have been buying their stuff forever, though I may keep blowing it out. LOL.

 
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