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Is there any diy's on installing it?

 
Rep Power: 309

http://www.dynamat.com/auto_install.htm

 
Rep Power: 811

Yup easy enough. I would get the dynamat extreme because it sticks better. I also used a heatgun when applying, but it's not a must. A roller is pretty much required to get it on good. I did my whole car over a year ago and that stuff hasn't moved at all.

 
Rep Power: 309

http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=84562

If you haven 't already bought Dynamat, check this?

 
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I don't need it for my speakers. I want it for my trunk because when I have music with tons of base it rattles like ****. I want that to stop. Maybe I'll try to tighten things in my trunk also... But I have some across a large sum of bestbuy bucks, and bestbuy sells dynamat so thats why i'm buying it.

 
Rep Power: 811

Start by adjusting the rubber stoppers on the lid to make it close better.

 
Rep Power: 327

Try the Sound Deadening DIY at the top of the page. It's stickied there in plain sight for a reason. IBTL

 
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actually, since I looked into this. I'm just going to get the kind of dynomat that goes around the speakers on the door and the rear deck. Because I just bought more powerful speakers and I think this would help me out quite a bit. Then I will do the sound deading on the trunk. But do you think installing dynamat in the trunk itself really helps? Like sound quality wise?

 
Rep Power: 309

doing the doors around the speaker is huge. When I did my door speakers, I didn't have time to start and complete all at once. I did the dynomat first, then stuck my stockers back in jsut to have tunes while I drove until I could finish doing my quarts. The sound actually noticeably improved in the stock speakers just from the dynomat.

 
Rep Power: 811

Yes big improvement with speakers. Even the trunk is worth it, but you need to do the lid to reduce rattles. I didn't tho cause it would look ugly.

 
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i think dynamat in the trunk looks cool actually

 
Rep Power: 336

big important warning here, there isnt 100% chance you will stop your trunk rattle with dynamat. theres an inner frame that vibrates agasint the trunk lid skin, and theres more than one member here who has PM'ed me with rattle problems post deadening to ask why their trunks were still rattling!

if you want to be 100% sure your trunklid will be dead solid, follow these steps:

#1 foam the lid (the rest can be done out of order)
to foam the lid, simply grab a can of spray expanding foam. I like minimal expand because theres a TON of room for user error, although triple expand works great too. as does normal expand. theres no bad type of expanding foam to use in this situation!
cover everything you dont want stuff on. its sticky as HELL! then stick the nozzle between the frame and the skin and spray away. it wont take much. most certainly dont fill teh entire cavity with wet foam, it expands!

afer the lid is foamed, trim off the excess so the deadener will apply evenly.

then:
apply sheet deadener on the lid
adjust the stoppers and/or latch to achieve a tight seal
use weatherstripping on your liscence plate and frame too if neccesary. please.

guaranteed to kill 100% of trunk lid rattles if applied properly (lud will tell us if there are special precautions for sedans due to brake lights)

 
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Has anyone here deadened the rear deck rattling? I don't know if this is just me, but my rear deck hops up and down like a caffeinated jackrabbit and the brake light hump in the middle hits the rear window and makes a horrible rattling noise. I have solved the problem temporarily by using what I call the Rand McNally Technique, which is achieved by jamming a New England Road Map into the space between the deck and the window.

I need to figure out my trunk leak before I take my deck off , but has anyone deadened the deck before? Did you use dynomat, foam, tape, rubber bumpers, true love?

 
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a very thin strip of weather strip of some sort would work well. Or you can make a custom rear deck out of fiberglass. Personnally I would love to remove my brake light in the window. Its useless, its not connected. I got the brake light on my spoiler.

 
Rep Power: 309

Recently saw a 2001 Civic with 2 L5s. Dynomat done to the lid, still rattled like a bitch. Hence, heed this warning. The kid asked me if there was something he could do, I told him to foam it.

J

 
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I have like 150+ feet of fatmat in my car and I don't have any rattles. Just don't use big pieces . . . cut it up into smaller pieces and puzzle it in there. I used felt dots for the license plate and that got rid of all the rattle from that, and tighten the trunk latch and you should be allright.

I also got rid of my stupidly loud system and went for sound quality this time around . . . but even when I had the loud system it didn't noticably rattle.

 
Rep Power: 336

I carpeted my rear deck, now it makes no noises when it contacts teh windshield. ive done it in other cars without carpet just stuffing carpet or towels or even socks between the deck and the window, below the visible line, to prevent contact.

 
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I'm with you on that. Right now I'm using the Rand McNally approach, but I liked the weather stripping idea and I happen to have some lying around so we'll give that a whirl before moving to carpet.

 
Rep Power: 327

I fatmatted my rear deck. I actually took the deck out to deaden it from the top. I have it in the flat places on the bottom as well. It helped considerably, but I would like to take the tension springs or whatever they are called(form the X between the trunk hinges) out completely, I wrapped mat around them as best I could, but they still rattle and resonate.

 
Rep Power: 811

I still get rattles, but I think it's from the trunk lid that I didn't do.

 
Rep Power: 327

Gearbox, just deaden it and then make a fiberglass mold of the underside of the lid, trim it all pretty, smooth it with body filler, carpet it and attach it...coveres the deadener, and looks even better than stock.

 
Rep Power: 336

torsion springs or torsion bars, for the terminology

as for the trunk lid, I think a flat board would do much better, and far easier.... like .25 inches