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How did you guys do this?

That rubber housing (in the door) is a pain to try and cut into. I just took the wires from my amp and ran them up along the frame, up under the dash, and into the door, and pulled out the rubber housing just enough to pull the wire through. I used some foam insulation to stuff in above the wire so the metal part of the door/frame won't cut into the wire over time. I also left enough slack so when I open and close the door it won't pull on the wire.

Trying to fish the wire in the same rubber insulation housing the other wires are in seemed impossible. I gave up on that thought right away.

This is the best way I could figure out how to run wire to my front speakers. Hey, it works!

 
Rep Power: 338

pull the rubber boot off of the door and off of the car...i then smashed them as close together as i could and shoved a long zip tie thru it, taped the speaker wire on the zip tie and pulled it thru to the door, then put the rubber boot back on the door and back on the body of the car. this way you dont see the wire when your door is open.

 
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Get a coat hanger and spray teflon lubricant on it. Spray a bit on the wire as well. Run the hanger through the rubber thing and fish the wire through.

 
Rep Power: 329

^^^ ditto

 
Rep Power: 786

Ya that is what I did on my car and it worked BEAUTIFULLY

 
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Yea, but it seemed like the rubber housing was all taped up to the large wire harness and other crap and it didn't help that I had the windows DOWN during the whole process. Doh! The damn glass was always in the way. I had the door panels off and the battery unhooked and I didn't feel like putting all that crap back on.

Good ideas though! Maybe I'll work on it another day when I get some free time, or when I get new fronts.

 
Rep Power: 311

Under the dash, disconnect the window and lock harness that comes through the rubber boot. Pull both plugs through the metal hole in the door so that the end of the boot AND the two clips come right out. Now, proceed to simply feed the wire through, no snakes, no hangers, no zip ties needed. Just pull the whole rubber out so you can straighten it and push wires through. I ran two, dual 16awg round XLN wires through it, no sweat.

Jason

 
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Nice tip! Oh BTW, my amp DOES sound like poo... Hey, wanna buy it!! That's ok, I'll just keep it for my fronts and rears and get a good amp for my subs.

 
Rep Power: 329

I ran dual double insulated twisted PG 12awg speaker wire through with no problem. You dont have to push the coathanger through the opening thats already there, make a new one.

 
Rep Power: 311

Sorry to hear you're not happy with the amp. When I saw that quote from you, it made my day. Its the part about people will buy anything, just look at me - that killed me! Hang in there though, you'll get you setup right. SOmetimes it really takes forever. Any of us that are serious about audio and that have tried different combinations of speakers/amps/HeadUnits, have probably wasted more money trying and changing things than most people that have ghetto systems spend on their whole setup. The people that have told you to basically use 30% advice and 70% your own judgement on speakers are right on. The problem is, the place that is easiest to sample speakers is a sound room at a local shop. Speakers in there always sound vastly different from the way they would in your car. The difference is in the acoustics of the room, surrounding noises, spacing, wiring, baffling etc, etc etc. I always see people in sound rooms hit the button to activate a certain speaker, then proceed to stand right in front of the speaker they turned on, ignoring the fact that the other speaker in the set is like 20 feet away . . . Nonetheless, what I'm trying to tell you is that to make an audio omlet, you're gonna break some eggs. Don't get discouraged, it WILL eventually pay off to be patient.