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I just purchased a set of 340 off ebay and now thinking about how to install it.
I am currently having an Alpine SPX-F17M woofer (17cm, 132mm hole). The Dyn MW-160 is a 17.5cm driver, with the holes on the exact hole circumference, need a 4mm larger hole, which I think is not a problem.

Now up to the midrange and tweeter. I have several options.
1. Use Q-form, put tweeter and mid range to the designated location.
2. Use Q-form to mount the mid, put tweeter at the windshield edge on A-pillar, facing the same direction as the midrange.
3. Use Q-form to mount the mid, mount the tweeter build out ON the Q-form, above the midrange.
4. Use stock kick panel, build a fiber board to mount midrange, put both sides to be relatively on axis.
5. Build a custom kick panel(<-damn, I don't know how to do it, if go to shop, $600)

I don't know if the system will still have seperation problem. I searched online, tried, did something, and no matter 2-way or 3-way, kick panel or door, the seperation problem is severe, no idea why.....

 
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use a q form for the midrange and the tweeter, midbass would go in doors

 
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but also remember, those dyn's are MAAAAAASSIVE power eaters
ive seen people run 3 200x2 rms amps just to their front speakers for dyn's

 
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Are you serious that I can do Q-form good with Dyn?

Man, I hate the separation problem, how can I handle that? The separation occurs only in upper midbass region.....

I have MRV-1507 which at 13.8V should be able to pump out RMS handling(around 200W??) for the set.....I hate over powering the speakers.....

If measured in 14.4V, then I have 225 front and 322 sub, which should be about a nice matching for front and sub(sub to be 1.5xfront power).....

 
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that sub to be 1.5 front power formula is garbage
there are way too many factors, such as frequency response, efficiency, enclosure, car, equalization, etc that affect it

separation problem could be solved by using active crossover points and messing with the slope and maybe adding in some overlap

as to the overpowering, you should love to overpower your speakers. 99% of sound quality competitors overpower the hell out of their speakers. turn the gain way the hell down and youve just effectively increased your signal to noise ratio, and added massive amounts of dynamic headroom for your amplification, and have guaranteed yourself that youll never push an amp to its limits.

 
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You know....I may better now what's going on in here.....

The MD100 tweeter, says 150W RMS.....but it's really on the high frequency side.....

MD140/2 midrange, 100W RMS, but it's an 8 OHM driver....may be that's where the 200W power handling is coming from....

MW160 woofer, 130W RMS, 4 ohm......

It seems like that the tweeter and woofer is wired in series by the connection......

Using active and overlapping XO.....I did it before, but there's nothing you can do with upper midbass range, which is about 200~300.....

 
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the tweeter and woofer are not wired in series, otherwise the crossover function wouldnt work right. and if youre not getting those frequencies, seems to me like youre having an installation problem. the dyn's should damn well cover those frequencies, and i know they can.

 
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Do you have Dyns too?

 
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nope
utopia 3 ways

 
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So can you teach me some technique for install, and tell me your configuration?

I added you in AIM this morning.

 
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ya..i have 6.5's in doors and 4 and tweet in kicks...works out great. while you have the panel out add some sound deading to the acctuall door pannel. alot where the bottom pocket is at or it will rattle.

 
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I have deadened everything, but....guess what, when the midbass hits, the lock button (near the rear opening of the door, the one you push for lock with a red mark) actually moves around.....How can you handle that?

 
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That happens for me too...it is better when i put the locks down though

...at first, I was like what the hell is that rattling!!!

 
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Yeah.....And this is the only fun part for a Vic to me....remove the door lining, play music with lots of bass, and watch the **** rotating clockwise with the bass....

 
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Should I solder the connections to the speakers or just use connectors?

 
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What make is the screen?

 
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What screen?

 
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Damn....I have no way close to be able to fit the MW-160 into the door....Either the magnet hits the door beam, or the front of the speaker hits the door lining....

 
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Now I have the system installed....
But still I have left/right separation(not local set separation)....What should I do?